You know you own a gen-2 60 degree V6 when:

[Rhedalert]

You know you own a gen-2 60 degree V6 when:

The labor guide quotes 4 hours to change the PCV valve

You Break the vacuum line to the MAP sensor while trying to do the rear plugs, and try desperately to glue it back on so you can *drive* it.

The valve cover gaskets leak at 60,000 miles

Go to tighten the massive oil-fill cap, only to have the ratcheting mechanism break just after you've muscle-tightened it, now it spins freely when trying to unscrew it.

Your throttle linkage has so much play, you can't get further than 94% WOT

While taking out the alternator, the positive post shorts to the plenum

Changing the serpentine belt would be a 30 second job if not for the "belt routing guide" plate, which you end up cracking when reinstalling.

it hesitates on acceleration from a stop, between 100-180* operating temp, and there's nothing you can do about it

The downpipe is bent like a stock honda tailpipe, and about the same size too.


During a tuneup, if one out of 6 spark plugs were to either be siezed in the head, or stripped, there's 100% chance it's on the rear head.

[RidgeRunner]

Speaking of alternators...

Mine cooked itself this morning. I went to McD's for an early breakfast, then up highway 107 towards Cashiers to see what the road looked like where they rebuilt it after it washed out... on the way back down the mountain, I noticed my gauges weren't as bright as they should be. Gauge read about 11-12v. I hightailed it to Advance Auto, and had to wait in the car (smelling like burned alternator) until they opened so i could buy an alternator, serpentine belt tool, and borrow the wrenches needed (10mm and 13mm... how sad is it that i have what tools it takes memorized?)

[Superdave]

So true.. so true

[robby1870]

Dont say that thing about stripped plugs.....Im doing plugs/wires tomorrow as its going to be 54 degrees and sunny

[SY2932]

Re: You know you own a gen-2 60 degree V6 when:

You know you own a gen-2 60 degree V6 when:
During a tuneup, if one out of 6 spark plugs were to either be siezed in the head, or stripped, there's 100% chance it's on the rear head.

That's why I use antisieze on all my plugs, NEVER have any trouble removing them. Also use a short length of 3/8" rubber hose to get them started in hard to reach places to prevent cross threading. Dielectric grease helps keep corrosion in check and makes removing/installing the plug wires a breeze. HTH's someone.

[Hybird]

RE: Re: You know you own a gen-2 60 degree V6 when:

While taking out the alternator, the positive post shorts to the plenum

I dunno if its just me, but I usually remove the neg batt terminal when removing my alternator.

As for the plugs, ya.. those rear are a bitch to get at, yet when you look there seems to be so much room packed back there.

[slick94prix]

Speaking of alternators... I hightailed it to Advance Auto, and had to wait in the car (smelling like burned alternator)

Exactly what does that smell like anyways?

[dbtk2]

Re: RE: Re: You know you own a gen-2 60 degree V6 when:

While taking out the alternator, the positive post shorts to the plenum

I dunno if its just me, but I usually remove the neg batt terminal when removing my alternator.

As for the plugs, ya.. those rear are a bitch to get at, yet when you look there seems to be so much room packed back there.

The back plugs really aren't very hard to get to. All you do is remove the dogbones and tilt the engine forward and there is TONS of room. I can typically do a plug change on a w-body with a Gen II or III 3.1 in 10-15 minutes, takes me less time on a Gen III because you don't have to rock the engine to get to the rear plugs 'cause the plenum isn't in the way. Especially with my hybrid because my coils aren't on the plenum either. Just did a plug change on my friends '91 GP SE last night. Removing the mounts, rocking the car forward and blocking the wheels with a block of wood (his e-brake doesn't work...typical w-body), getting the ratchet, spark plug socket, the two extentions I use, the anti seize, and the gapper out, gapping the new plugs and putting anti-seize on them, removing the old plugs and putting the new plugs in, putting the mounts back on, rocking the car again to be able to remove the two blocks of wood, and putting the tools away and it took me 18 minutes to do, and that was because the plugs in it didn't have anti-seize on them and it was not easy to get them out. The big difference is just rocking the engine forward (assuming its a w-body car).


Shawn

[RidgeRunner]

Exactly what does that smell like anyways?

Burned wiring. Almost like a fried electronics smell... but more of a burned varnish smell.

[slick94prix]

Exactly what does that smell like anyways?

Burned wiring. Almost like a fried electronics smell... but more of a burned varnish smell.

So, the same smell i get if I go above 3500 rpm then. Well... sounds like the alt. is bad, over 3500 rpm atleast.

[Norm '88 GT]

Pretty funny. Had me chuckling and smiling. But you do know that the battery is supposed to be disconnected when working on electrical componets...I've seen sparks and flames but not on my car.

[Ja[M]z]

LOL


These are so true ...


But speaking of lugs , they were very easy to get at on my Sunbird , took me 22 minutes the last time i did them .


But on my DOHC they ve been change this Fall , one day i ll got to get them done by myself and thats not fun lol

[speedvisioncavalier]

when im driving a gen2 3.1, at about 5000 rpms, im about to shift.

in the W41, 5000rpms is about where my revs drop to after i shift

[dbtk2]

The limiter on the W41 is what, 7450? I know its 7200 on my HO Quad, but I can't remember if the w41's are 7400 or 7450. I know if I shift at ~7100 out of first it will be at about 4700 or so in 2nd, so it should be about 5k if you shift a couple hundred rpm higher.

Shawn

[speedvisioncavalier]

yea, its about 7400. i dont know the EXACT number, cause it kinda doesnt matter. the needle is moving fast anyways, and you cant hold it to the very last rev. hitting the fuel cut is bad.