Hi I have a 94 corsica with a 3.1. When warm the coolant pushes out of the top of the coolant bottle if open. This isn't normal is it? I always thought that was sign of a bad head gasket and exhaust gas getting in to cooling system. The thing is I've tested it with my coolant pressure tester,the pressure does go down slowly but will still have pressure left on tester even if left all day and also over night, Changing a head gasket is too big a job to just do it. I have to be sure it really needs it replaced. I'm thinking having air trapped in the system might also cause this same problem. What do you think? Have any of you had problems bleeding the air out of the system? Some of these cars have a air bleeder on the thermostat housing mine just has one on top of water pump.I'm thinking of adding one to thermostat housing. I also saw something a while back about drilling very small holes in the thermostat itself to help bleed air through it. Anyone know anything about doing that? thanks
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94 3.1 trouble bleeding air out of cooling system
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Have you replaced anything in the cooling system lately? If so then you need to bleed the air out.
Are you opening the cap when the engine is hot? That should make coolant flow out as the system is under pressure. Checking the level should be done with the engine cold. That is why the tank has mark on it that says cold level.95 Beretta 3100 with 3400 intakes and TCE TB
High flow cat and a Magnaflow muffler
Grand Prix trans with 3.33FDR
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Originally posted by Purple pit View PostHave you replaced anything in the cooling system lately? If so then you need to bleed the air out.
Are you opening the cap when the engine is hot? That should make coolant flow out as the system is under pressure. Checking the level should be done with the engine cold. That is why the tank has mark on it that says cold level.
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I can see why you are stumped. Getting there myself. Sucks not having a radiator cap(I know, my system is the same). The lazy way to bleed is to start the car, let it run without warming up and shut it off. Then open the cap. If there is air it will chug and draw coolant out of the tank. Do this a few times and then take it for a drive. Let it warm up all the way, if the temp shoots up before it takes the normal time to warm up there is still air in the system. If you get scared turn the heater on(that acts as another radiator). Really the heater should be turned on anyway because it may still have air in it.
Again that is the lazy way, but it does work and keeps the coolant in the system. Using the bleeder spills it.
I'm sure there is a "normal" or correct way to do it. I've just always done it that way. Keep in mind I'm a bit old school and still miss having the cap on the radiator.95 Beretta 3100 with 3400 intakes and TCE TB
High flow cat and a Magnaflow muffler
Grand Prix trans with 3.33FDR
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I always had problems with burping my 60v6's.. On my old stock 3.1 it kept getting air in the system, turned out that I had a crack in one of the plastic lines on the heater core. After replacing that I took it in for a professional flush and it was fine for years till I pulled it out for the 3400.
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Originally posted by Superdave View PostI always had problems with burping my 60v6's.. On my old stock 3.1 it kept getting air in the system, turned out that I had a crack in one of the plastic lines on the heater core. After replacing that I took it in for a professional flush and it was fine for years till I pulled it out for the 3400.
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I drove mine across the country like that, it was fine until I'd shut it down at a rest stop and it would piss all over the ground. lol
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