5 year storage, 6000 mile salvage engine from yard

[rick444]

Was stored at yard w no fluids for 5 years.
What is recommrnded to get oil on the cam lobes and tappet rollers. Need I fear a semi-dry startup? The lx9 has been in storage for 5 years.
I am thinking that the entire insides should be oil fogged before starting, because what if a roller is stuck and would ruin a lobe.
What about putting 2 qt oil and rotating engine on the engine stand belly up to cause oil to rain everywhere?
Would all of this really be necessary in the forum opinion?
I am afraid that all oil film is gone during 5 year storage.
Thanks.

[robertisaar]

if the block was kept relatively sealed and you can basically roll the engine around to spread oil, go for it, it isn't like it would hurt anything.

you could also send pressurized oil throughout the engine via a couple different methods. most of the parts stores have a priming tool that hook into the oil pressure sensor port and allow you to feed oil that way.

or pop off the dizzy plug(you probably should anyways to replace the o-ring with the more durable "brown" version) and use an ~8mm socket to spin the oil pump. that will send oil everywhere but one bank of lifters(you have to have that section sealed to get oil to the bank that is left dry). there is a way of modifying a temporary plug or even just using a dummy distributor to spin the shaft with it sealed, that would pump oil everywhere.

[Guest]

I say find a way to pump oil through the dizzy location with a dummy dizzy or a socket like mentioned. at least get it into the lower end before firing.

[rick444]

Can the pump be turned like many years ago, like thru a vestigal dist hole? Nowdays there is no dist, and that is what I think is a dizzy plug; is that so?
Can I somehow spin the pump with a attachment of sorts? How is that done nowdays. I did so in the days of distrib. How to nowadays?
Thanks.

[neophile_17]

When GM went DIS they couldn't justify finding another way to drive the oil pump. So they lopped the top off the distributor just after it came out of the block. If you look where the distributor would be you'll see the top. Pull it out and drive the oil pump like you would a SBC. However the bottom of the "distributor" key is different than the SBC. I used a 8mm hex socket (like an allen wrench) the first time but I bought some 8mm hex rod from McMaster for subsequent jobs. It's ever so slightly easier than taping a bunch of extensions together so that the socket doesn't get stuck in the oil pump. Hope this helps.

[Guest]

Or you can just use an 8mm socket on the original drive rod... with just one or a few extensions...

[neophile_17]

That too! After making an oily mess I got frustrated with the tape and trying to rig something to adapt the socket to my 3/8" cordless drill. For the extra couple bucks I added that rod to a Mcmaster order. If I wasn't placing an order anyway I wouldn't have bought it. It's a small convenience.

[Guest]

I too have made a tool from an old dizzy. But a 1/4" hex to 1/4" socket adapter, extension and an 8mm or 5/16" socket with a rag wrapped around the extension and pushed against the hole is a very capable way of priming one of these engines. I've used the same idea on other engines as well.

[rick444]

Neo, thanks!

When GM went DIS they couldn't justify finding another way to drive the oil pump. So they lopped the top off the distributor just after it came out of the block. If you look where the distributor would be you'll see the top. Pull it out and drive the oil pump like you would a SBC. However the bottom of the "distributor" key is different than the SBC. I used a 8mm hex socket (like an allen wrench) the first time but I bought some 8mm hex rod from McMaster for subsequent jobs. It's ever so slightly easier than taping a bunch of extensions together so that the socket doesn't get stuck in the oil pump. Hope this helps.

So, I take it that the receptor of the pump at the bottom of the access "port is 8 mm female socket hex and needs a male hex to turn the pump. (as it were)
Is it like I describe?
I am with you to get a one piece bar rather than risk dropping something into the bowels of the engine (ugh).
Then, Probably say, 100 turns and the motor is fully primed, would you think? % yr storage is a long dry spell. Do you think any oil film would persist that long? Curious of opinion from people of practical experience.

[3400-95-Modified]

You really should take a old dizzy plug and take it apart revealing a hole in the middle that you can run a long hex rod through to run the pump. I say this because if you do not install the dizzy plug the lifters will not get oil. The feed for those go through the sides of the plug and into the lifter galley. I tried priming an engine with the plug completely removed and oil just gushed out of the hole. This is also why that plug will leak oil very badly when the o-ring does go bad. Most don't realize its under pressure right there.

[robertisaar]

i think someone needs to take a pic or two of that process.... I pulled out my dummy plug for the 3100 head gasket job and was trying to figure out what to do to one to make a dedicated "priming plug" without damaging the one from my engine and I couldn't figure it out.

[3400-95-Modified]

I will take a pic of the one I have at home tonight if I get a chance. The pump gear is held on to a rotating shaft in the plug by a roll pin... just tap that out to remove the drive gear then tap on the shaft that is left and it will pop the top of the dizzy plug out, It's like a freeze plug cap. That removed will leave you with the dizzy shell and a bronze bushed hole in the middle that the old gear drive shaft ran on.

Found a post with pics of a tool some one made... You Don't need to go this far... Just a hex shaft long enough to reach the pump through the center of that plug will suffice.

http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php/42931-Is-there-a-wrong-way-to-re-install-dist-oil-drive?p=384980&viewfull=1#post384980

[neophile_17]

So, I take it that the receptor of the pump at the bottom of the access "port is 8 mm female socket hex and needs a male hex to turn the pump. (as it were)
Is it like I describe?
I am with you to get a one piece bar rather than risk dropping something into the bowels of the engine (ugh).
Then, Probably say, 100 turns and the motor is fully primed, would you think? % yr storage is a long dry spell. Do you think any oil film would persist that long? Curious of opinion from people of practical experience.

That's right. What 3400-95-Modified pointed out makes a lot of sense and I'll grab another plug to seal that oil passage while priming in the future. It made a mess when I tried the shop rag seal ...

I'd probably just run it for a couple minutes rather than try to count revolutions.

[rick444]

Reply about priming the oil pump.

That's right. What 3400-95-Modified pointed out makes a lot of sense and I'll grab another plug to seal that oil passage while priming in the future. It made a mess when I tried the shop rag seal ...

I'd probably just run it for a couple minutes rather than try to count revolutions.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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I got it primed as best as i could, The storage motor started right up; belched blue smoke,
ran rough for about 15 seconds until the lifters pumped up.
I think in the future i will pressure prime the gallery at the sensor plug with a homemade bottle and hose and a tire hand pump. It seems i got the thing oiled pretty good.
Everything works!
Thanks all you guys!

[3400-95-Modified]

Making a Dizzy plug you can run a hex shaft through is still the easiest way and ensures 100% oiling serviced by the oil pump and not an exterior source. Not only does it pre-oil but it tests the pump and pickup at the same time to ensure nothing is wrong with it. I have a few old dizzy plugs that I could take apart and send to you if you wanted one... you would just need to supply a long hex shaft to drive the pump.