Removing Serpentine Accessories

[4x43100]

Hey guys,
I have a 3100 V6 from a '98 Malibu and I need to remove the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor for a motor swap. I would like to remove the water pump and replace it with an remote electric one but I don't think it's possible based on the design of the water pump and how integral the whole housing is to the cooling system. Basically I am curious how people have rerouted the belt when the power steering pump and AC compressor are no longer there.

[Guest]

I assume this is going in a longitudinal application?

If that's the case most people swap to a front cover and water pump from an S-10 or F-body.

There was an electric pump available as a complete front cover replacement. I can't seem to locate it right now. IIRC it was sold through britishcarconversions.com

[4x43100]

Yes it is going in a longitudinal application, though not in what you might think. I will look into the front cover conversion. Does that reduce the overall length of the motor?

[Guest]

No, it ends up being longer than the FWD front cover and pulley system does.

The shortest option would be using an F-body water pump, it's shorter than the S-10 variant.

[caffeine]

This is another alternative that you could try.

[caffeine]

Removing Serpentine Accessories

Actually I designed that scheme for a power steering pump. Without a power steering pump beside the crank pulley you could just route the belt a little differently and use a ribbed pulley closest to the crank.

[4x43100]

So in that picture what idlers were changed? The only one I can remember from memory is the one missing between the alternator and tensioner. What would you suggest where the idler for the crank pulley is too far to right and the belts would be against each other once the right length belt was tensioned?

[caffeine]

Just change the routing

[4x43100]

The serpentine system on my motor looks like this, I don't have half of those idlers. There is even an engine mount right where the one is.

[Guest]

Yeah, those idlers were added. That is a non-stock belt routing.

It might help to know more details of the project, to give you the best direction to proceed.

[ericjon262]

This is another alternative that you could try.

won't work without a/c, tried it. I'll snap a picture of what I did, and provide the belt part number, it'll be tomorrow at the earliest though.

edit: I'll try to explain it,

swap the idler between the crank and WP with a ribbed idler, install a ribbed idler by the WP like in above picture. move smooth idler below TB to spot near the tensioner, install another ribbed idler where the tensioner is, swap the tensioner pully to a smooth pulley and mount the tensioner on the timing cover so it points to 3 o'clock.

belt i used was a masterpro K060680.

Edit again, probably won't clear a flipped UIM without some kind of spacer though.

[4x43100]

Well basically the motor and mating 4T40E trans are going in an old golf cart I have. It is going in longitudinally with the accessory drive belt going to front most likely. It might end up towards the back, but that still needs to be decided with differential options and how much space there is to the rear axle center-line. I would really like to get the alternator lower because the biggest problem with this motor right now is the height of it. I basically need the accessories and bet drive as close and compact as possible but obviously don't need power steering or air conditioning as it is a golf cart. So that is about where I am at.

[Guest]

Here's what I did with the alternator on my Jimmy. I modified the A.I.R. pump bracket to use for the alternator.



And here's what I did with the LX9 I installed in my 240Z this summer:



The alternate belt routing I had considered:


As you can see I also don't like high mounted alternators.

All of the above belt routing required the use of the longitudinal front cover and water pump. I could use an F-body water pump to shorten the overall length, but I used what I had. Funny enough, it's the same front cover, water pump, crank pulley, tensioner, crank trigger and harmonic damper on both engines.

You could possibly mount the alternator in a similar location to where I did on the Franken60 (top pic), but moved more rearward to line up with the FWD crank pulley/damper. But you would still need to figure out idler pulleys and a tensioner to retain the FWD water pump.

[4x43100]

Thanks for the pictures! I may look into moving the alternator more now. My original goal was to retain as much of the original accessory mounting stuff to keep it simple, easy, and strong. However due to the obvious tight confines of my application I may not have a choice.

[Superdave]

I always wondered if the LT1 type electric water pump would work in the FWD housing...

https://www.golenengineservice.com/products/meziere-electric-water-pump-lt1lt4