Is the 2.8l really what I want?

[hal.lyman]

Wow....it's like a cake that's too nice to cut and eat...how would your wife feel about just giving it a display pedistle in the living room?

[Ghosteh]

Wow....it's like a cake that's too nice to cut and eat...how would your wife feel about just giving it a display pedistle in the living room?

She's laughing about that one, and said that I could put it in the corner and we'll put the christmas tree lights on it!

[1988GTU]

She's laughing about that one, and said that I could put it in the corner and we'll put the christmas tree lights on it!

She figures if its in the corner, it'll prevent you from spending more $ and time on it... Leaving all that unspent time and $ going to her!

[Ghosteh]

First lesson today is to NEVER buy one of those cheap-ass click-type torque wrenches from Sears (about $38.). When I took mine back tonight because it had yet to click (and stupid me sheared a bolt off in the oil pan), the kid at the counter told me they had 3 of them returned today.

Anyway, Lowes came to the rescue with a ($50) Kobold click-type that works as well as any Snap-On. Fortunately, the broken bolt was easily removed and I replaced them all with new GM bolts.

Heads are finally on now, along with my new cam and the cryo-treated timing chain & gears. And, of course, the oil pan. It's starting to come together

[Purple pit]

Never had that problem with mine. I will say that happness is not something I feel when using my Crapsman clicking torque wrenches. Think that is why my LIMG had to be done twice! Been thinking about a Snap-on. If Koblod is just as good I may go with that!

[3400-95-Modified]

I have torque wrenchs from advance auto and harbor freight... Never served me wrong.

[Ghosteh]

Never had that problem with mine. I will say that happness is not something I feel when using my Crapsman clicking torque wrenches. Think that is why my LIMG had to be done twice! Been thinking about a Snap-on. If Koblod is just as good I may go with that!

I always liked Craftsman chrome (Professional series) sockets because they are easy to keep clean and have that lifetime guarantee. Other than this torque wrench, I've never had an issue with Craftsman. But I've found myself leaning more towards a mix of Husky and Kobalt tools, and have been very happy with them. I always get the fully polished tools because they wipe clean easily. IMHO, if you pick & choose pieces (because they have different versions), they have a very similar feel and weight to them as the Snap-Ons, and much better than Craftsman. For example, Craftsman wrenches seem to have a more "squared off" handle, while the Husky wrenches I have feel a bit thicker and with more rounded edges on the handle. To me, they are just more comfortable to use.

My dad bought one (actually he got 3 for his business and kept one at home) of those complete 2-piece roller Snap-On boxes with all the tools about 30 years ago & they are what I grew up using. No one can dispute Snap-On quality, but they are outrageously expensive. There are a few pieces in my box, but I got them all used. Because I don't earn my living with tools, I don't need the best quality, but I've also learned to stay away from cheap junk. It always seems to cost you more in the long run. I'm sure Kobalt isn't as good as Snap-On, but it's maybe 90-95% of the quality at 50-60% of the price. That's close enough for what I do with them.

*That's my tool review for the day.

[Ghosteh]

Crazy question, but should I reverse the valve covers when I flip the UIM around?

*nevermind. I do. And of course, I put them on the wrong way.

[Ghosteh]

Crank position sensor question:

I've read that you need to relocate this to an external sensor. Why?
Also, when you do relocate it, what do you use to fill the hole in the block?

[1988GTU]

Crank position sensor question:

I've read that you need to relocate this to an external sensor. Why?
Also, when you do relocate it, what do you use to fill the hole in the block?

Lx9 uses a different reluctor wheel and unless you swap that wheel on the crank you will need to use the external one.
Leave the stock sensor where its at and buy a new sensor for the ext. setup.

[3400-95-Modified]

I know this is not what you want to hear for an option since you probably have the whole bottom end assembled already BUT, for less money buy the internal sensor, mark the crank as described in the instructions, tap off the old ring with a few punches and a hammer, heat the new ring and drop it on aligning the mark on it with the one you made... Then use a factory 7x sensor in the block with the supplied spacer.

Internal ring installed on my crank.



Internal Kit RWD or FWD

http://www.britishcarconversions.com/shop/all/crank-trigger-kit-internal-detail

External kit RWD

http://www.britishcarconversions.com/shop/all/crank-trigger-kit-rwd-detail

External Kit FWD

http://www.britishcarconversions.com/shop/all/crank-trigger-fwd-detail

I don't know what balancer you'll be running so that's why I listed both FWD and RWD kit's that BCC sells

Wait... this is all irrelevant anyways... You already own the RWD relocation kit... your dampener is machined in this pic and the bracket to the left is where you put the old style sensor.

[Ghosteh]

yes, I went that way, although the internal trigger would have been a cleaner install. Maybe next time.

Anyway, I'll stick the old one in the hole in the block (it was broken anyway) and get a new one for the bracket.
I'll clean it up a little with some epoxy and make it smooth.

[3400-95-Modified]

That's why I went with the internal one. I didn't want something bolted on the side of the motor and exposed to the elements.

[Ghosteh]

This is where things start to become cloudy for me. The dark art of electronics!

So I need to purchase a different CP sensor than the stock LX9, correct? Is there a specific year/engine that I need to use as the source motor when I go to the parts store and ask for a CPS? Oh, and is this a blockoff plate for the factory CPS in the side of the block? (I can't figure out what CCP means, but it looks like the same size) http://www.britishcarconversions.com...ete-cap-detail

I still haven't picked up a CPU, and will be re-reading all these threads over Christmas break to make sure I'm getting the right parts. Sheesh... can't believe it's Christmas already! I'm way behind my self-imposed deadline! (I was gonna have this thing running & installed in my chassis by the first of the year!) Hey, speaking of the dark art of wiring, what is the opinion of this? http://www.britishcarconversions.com...arn-ecm-detail It seems pretty expensive, but is it worthwhile? I'd rather not spend quite that much, but if it's going to save me a lot of aggravation and be a nice, clean & professional-looking setup, it might be worthwhile.


Question: I was reviewing what I had already gotten for this build, and the serpentine pulleys (which I purchased years ago from BCC for the 2.8 build) are the 10% underdrive ones, which advertise 10-15hp increase (I kinda doubt that, but it's a nice looking setup). http://www.classicconversionseng.com...rsion-Kits.htm The only thing I'll be running is the water pump and alternator, and maybe a tensioner. Do you experts see any issues with this setup on the LX9? I haven't decided if I'll use the current alt. bracket setup that I have with the chrome, curved bracket for adjustment, or the BCC bracket that uses the turnbuckle (that seems like a more stable bracket). http://www.britishcarconversions.com...bracket-detail Opinions?


Another question: What do you guys use to adhere the paper gaskets to the timing chain cover (both the block side and the wtper pump side)? I was told by a local to just use blue Permex, but it seems the tolerances are pretty tight on paper gaskets to be slopping a bunch of blue rtv on there. If I recall correctly, the last time I installed a water pump, I used some sort of red adhesive that was more like brush-on paint than silicone.

[Ghosteh]

That's why I went with the internal one. I didn't want something bolted on the side of the motor and exposed to the elements.

I wish that I would have now, but it's ok; this car isn't going to be a daily driver & should stay pretty clean. I doubt I'll ever have any issues with build-up interfering with the external CPS.