Is the 2.8l really what I want?

[1988GTU]

I've used the bypass tube as a heater core feed for years with no issues. Heater core works fine too. What's the issue with doing it that way? Using the original t-stat as well.

It there's a blockage with the heater exchange system, it can cause the engine to not have proper circulation. Failsafe design that has came in handy for those tending to lack maintenance intervals or believe in 100k coolant and 10K oil changes.

[1988GTU]

How do you get the bolt/rubber plug out of the valve covers? Again, I don't want to break anything, so I'm trying to be easy, but I can't get them out!

They are firmly pressed in place with hand/finger force. Takes about the same level of effort to remove. Popping the bolt out then inserting the bolt from the underside and 'popping' the bolt into the grommet usually releases them. Be sure to wipe clean the surfaces (& grommet if reusing) very well prior to installation. I like to apply a thin coat of liquid thread tape to the bolts before re-installing.

The grommets can be had either with the purchase of a complete head gasket set kit or by themselves to do one complete rocker cover at a time, unfortunately the OEM hardware only is available only with the purchase of a rocker cover. Good news is, you can still buy the covers and can buy one side at a time which will not only come preloaded with the hardware, but the grommets as well. Under 40.00 per cover if memory serves me right. I am grateful that GM did away with the torx head hardware and went to 8mm hex heads! :

Ref Info:

FEL-PRO Part # HS26314PT



FEL-PRO Part # ES71044
If they pop out easily, are torn, brittle or visually look in compromised condition I would replace them.

[Ghosteh]

I'll get those bolts out of the valve covers if it kills me! lol!


Well, it's been a morning mixed with good news and bad news. Good news is that I took the intake & timing cover off the old engine. Someone here was interested in buying the intake, and I was going to use the timing cover on the new engine. Bad news is that it won't work (even if I cut off the top "ear" to clear the LIM) because of the oil pan......





But the REALLY good news is that I measured the height of the new engine with manifolds on, and then swapped the old engine's intake & carb setup, and I'm going to be at least 2-3 inches lower using the LX9. That's a major issue, because the carb was just a little too tall to clear the hood on my car, even without an air cleaner. Finally I have the right engine for this project!

Now to find the right timing cover & hope my brand-new old waterpump will work.

[Ghosteh]

ok, here's another question:

Do I need to replace the intake gaskets where they seal to the heads? (I know the answer to this; I just want someone else to tell me the bad news)
And if I do, then is the only way to get them out to remove the pushrods? This looks like it means pulling the heads (which I said before I might as well do, so I can replace the head gaskets). Just venting a little here, because I really wanted to do minimum disassembly on the project.

[1988GTU]

ok, here's another question:

Do I need to replace the intake gaskets where they seal to the heads? (I know the answer to this; I just want someone else to tell me the bad news)
And if I do, then is the only way to get them out to remove the pushrods? This looks like it means pulling the heads (which I said before I might as well do, so I can replace the head gaskets). Just venting a little here, because I really wanted to do minimum disassembly on the project.

You replace them while its that far apart. The heads do NOT have to come off to do the lower intake gasket.

Be sure to NOTE and PUT BACK the pushrods in the same spot as you remove them.

[Guest]

You replace them while its that far apart. The heads do NOT have to come off to do the lower intake gasket.

Be sure to NOTE and PUT BACK the pushrods in the same spot as you remove them.

This ^^^

You remove the rockers to remove the pushrods. The Rockers on the LX9 (and most gen3 660s) are simply torqued to a specific amount when re-installed. There's no lash to set or check (when using all stock valve train).

For the front cover you will need to find one from a certain year Fiero, I believe '87+ works, but you'll have to verify, to keep your forward rotation water pump. I went reverse rotation water pump on mine, because of a few reasons, I already had a couple S-10 covers, the reverse rotation pumps were used on more applications and therefore easier to get, and it's very difficult to find that correct Fiero (also used on the HT3.4) front cover.

[1988GTU]

It wouldn't be hard to go to the t-cover using the reverse flow pump. Move the belt from the one side over to the other and its ready to spin cc.

[Ghosteh]

Ok, so the hunt is on for the correct timing cover! Meanwhile, I'm turning to another part of this puzzle...

So in an earlier thread, The Raven said that this piece was part of the fuel tank vent system...
Since I'm going to replace the fuel rails with 3400 or 3100 & make it a bypass system, will I be reusing this sensor? What I'm thinking is that since I was going to eliminate the EGR valve & block the hole, if I also didn't need this piece, the whole assembly could be cut off, welded shut, and cleaned up.

[Guest]

You can eliminate it. It's a kin to canister purge in function, which you will likely not be using anyway.

FYI, the type of fuel rail used is independent on whether is used or not.

Many people will drill and tap the port that is there for a vacuum nipple. I agree, it would look better cut off and welded up though.

[Ghosteh]

I'll get the cutoff wheel warmed up tonight!

Still looking for a 3100/3400 fuel rail (and I think I've found a decent one).

[1988GTU]

You can cut & patch that area, or you can use as a vacuum source/block the ports off. I'd go with which ever is practical & least involvment/$ to you.

[Ghosteh]

You can cut & patch that area, or you can use as a vacuum source/block the ports off. I'd go with which ever is practical & least involvment/$ to you.

I'll need a vacuum port for the bypass fuel rails, correct? Seems like this would be the perfect spot for one. Are there any photo examples of what the bypass rails look like as they are connected to a 3500 (specifically one converted to RWD)?

[caffeine]

Is the 2.8l really what I want?

If you're using an LX5 throttle body, which most people doing this swap do, you'll have two vacuum ports from the TB that you can use. I would go ahead and cut off the EVAP/EGR block and weld the holes shut.

[1988GTU]

I'll need a vacuum port for the bypass fuel rails, correct? Seems like this would be the perfect spot for one. Are there any photo examples of what the bypass rails look like as they are connected to a 3500 (specifically one converted to RWD)?

True, but you can tap the top hole where the MAP went for a 90* barb fitting. Too bad you didnt have the spare vacuum port on the UIM.

[Ghosteh]

UIM casting marks cleaned up a little prior to being sent to the polisher. I'll take it to my welder pal for a quick fix before it leaves.




Heads off & heading for the solvent tank. They should clean up nice! Oh, and I took the advice and made sure that the pushrods wouldn't get mixed up!



Found a late-model Fiero timing cover & it's on the way, along with a new water pump. I've beat my head on the desk many times trying to make sure I was getting the right setup to retain my serpentine setup with only an alternator. I THINK I have it, but still have fingers crossed!

Now I'll start cleaning up the gasket surfaces and get the block ready to paint. A friend says to go with black, since that's the color of Chevy hi-po motors (and what the stock car guys do), but I'm leaning towards Healey green. Of course, I hope the little V6 doesn't start thinking it's a Healey engine, because I want it to be a strong runner! lol!