Is the 2.8l really what I want?

[caffeine]

Is the 2.8l really what I want?

I wouldn't say the cast crank is necessarily less quality than the forged one. I just dynoed 406 through a cast crank @ 11 psi the other day

[Ghosteh]

I wouldn't say the forged crank is necessarily less quality than the cast one. I just dynoed 406 through a cast crank @ 11 psi the other day

Unbelievable! I'll never go that far with one, but it's nice to know they could. Are these little 6's really that good?

If mine runs as well (and sounds as good) as the one you put in that Sprite, I'll be very happy!

[Ghosteh]

cleaned her up today, which wasn't too bad. I'll have to more when I start taking pieces off.
Also pulled off the UM and coils.



Question #1: How do I get this fuel line off without breaking it?



Question #2: Can I remove the EGR? Would a blocking plate go where the iron part bolts to the aluminum pointing? If I do that, what's needed to "trick" the ECU? I assume that the plastic block behind it is related to the EGR, but what is it? Can it be eliminated also?

[Guest]

There's a special tool to remove the fuel line. Most people swap to a 3400 fuel rail, since it's a bypass style system, and is easier to retrofit in swaps. You can remove the entire fuel rail and that line together and set aside in the round cylindrical filing cabinet.

The plastic part next to the EGR is part of the fuel tank vent system, not really related to the EGR at all.

The ECM can be tuned to remove the EGR from the system and codes disabled.

[caffeine]

Just take the EGR and EVAP solenoid off and either make or buy block-offs for them

[Ghosteh]

There's a special tool to remove the fuel line. Most people swap to a 3400 fuel rail, since it's a bypass style system, and is easier to retrofit in swaps. You can remove the entire fuel rail and that line together and set aside in the round cylindrical filing cabinet.

The plastic part next to the EGR is part of the fuel tank vent system, not really related to the EGR at all.

The ECM can be tuned to remove the EGR from the system and codes disabled.

I'm all about easier, so a 3400 fuel rail it is! Any suggestion on where to find one (outside a "pick & pull")? And if I do this, what injectors would I use? 3400 or 3500? What are the tricks to getting the right fuel delivery system here? What fuel pump is most common in these swaps, and what pressure is best?

(Hopefully they aren't as expensive as the ones I replaced on my diesel pickup years ago! Bosch is VERY proud of their products, and charge accordingly.)

[Ghosteh]

Just take the EGR and EVAP solenoid off and either make or buy block-offs for them

Any preferred vendors for the plates?

The ECM can be tuned to remove the EGR from the system and codes disabled.

That will require someone sharper than me! lol! Hopefully there's someone in the Chicago area who can put together a tune for me.
Guess I also need to get a ECM... hmmm... the shopping list grows!

[caffeine]

Tuning out the EGR is as easy as turning the 'enable' coolant temp up to 300*. I believe both WOT-tech and British Car Conversions sell block-off plates.

For a fuel pump you'll probably need an aftermarket external pump capable of producing 55 psi. I'm sure there are quite a few out there that would work.

[1988GTU]

For a fuel pump you'll probably need an aftermarket external pump capable of producing 55 psi. I'm sure there are quite a few out there that would work.

There are 340 pumps available if one should need that much fuel. Or just get a stock replacement sy/ty pump.

[Ghosteh]

I've looked around on the web & can't seem to find a clear answer to this: Is the 3100 fuel rail the same as the 3400?

What is the benefit of switching to the bypass system? Less fuel lines to run?

[Guest]

Yes, they are the same fuel rail.

The benefit of going to the bypass system is it's simple and requires no special controllers fuel pump to be varied in speed. Fuel pressure in a dead head EFI system is controlled by pump speed. Fuel pressure in a bypass system is controlled by the vacuum referenced fuel pressure regulator. There are usally more fuel lines in a bypass system than there are in a dead head system (one vs two), but it's not complicated.

Alternately, although I haven't done this personally, I know people have created a sort of hybrid system, that uses both a bypass fuel pressure regulation, that feeds a dead head fuel rail. Typically when this is done, there are two fuel lines run to the engine bay (feed and return), where the feed is split off to the regulator and the fuel rail. Typically the regulator is placed very close to the fuel rail, to ensure that as much air is bled out of the system while priming and initial running as possible. The return is unchanged from the typical bypass system. It seems this is mostly done for looks.

[Ghosteh]

Thanks Raven! You guys have no idea how much help it is to get your feedback and answers to questions! It's a huge help!


Spent some time in the garage today. Removed the oil pan, timing cover, LIM, valve covers, plus a few sensors, etc.



I turned the LIM around (just to see how it fit) and was looking at the water intake. Forgive the stupid question, but what is the deal with this hole? Is this one to be plugged, or do you use it again? Heater core?



I'm also looking at the head gaskets, and I can see that they're weeping oil in the corners, near the LIM. I wasn't planning to change them, but I suppose now's the time to replace. How much of a pain is that going to be? Is the head gasket the one that everyone says to replace with the metal-type?

Another stupid question: How do you get the bolt/rubber plug out of the valve covers? Again, I don't want to break anything, so I'm trying to be easy, but I can't get them out!

[Guest]

That hole you have a red arrow pointing at is indeed for the heater core. Many people tap it with a 1/2" NPT tap (it's already drilled out large enough ), and use a nipple there, or use a bushing for the water temp sensor and then drill out the other side of the T-stat housing and use that for the heater core (I did the later with my 3.2L hybrid years ago in my Jimmy). Or people will incorrectly use the bypass tube that is attached to the intake as the heater core hose feed, but you can't use the original type T-stat if you do this.
I'm working on doing the bypass the correct way, when using a RWD timing cover, that I will document, once I have all of the details worked out.

I don't pull those bolts out of the rocker covers, though I have had some pop out, when removing the rocker cover, just by sheer force of the bolt pushing upwards on it, with the rocker cover stuck to the head/intake. They seem to need to be soft and pliable, if they are hard (from years of heat cycles), then they tend to break when trying to remove them.

[caffeine]

Is the 2.8l really what I want?

I've used the bypass tube as a heater core feed for years with no issues. Heater core works fine too. What's the issue with doing it that way? Using the original t-stat as well.

[Guest]

I've used the bypass tube as a heater core feed for years with no issues. Heater core works fine too. What's the issue with doing it that way? Using the original t-stat as well.

The problem is that the T-stat has an extension that covers the hole that the bypass tube is attached to and acts like a valve. Pressure from the water pump (in the stock FWD configuration) pushes the valve open (It's spring loaded) to control the bypass flow, and may be limiting heater core flow at best.

I'll be posting about it once I have all of the details worked out and the whys and hows. I doubt GM would spend time creating that bypass on all generations of the 660, if it wasn't important to be there.