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3.4L camaro bogging out on acceleration

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  • 3.4L camaro bogging out on acceleration

    Hi guys,
    I have a 1994 camaro 3.4L v6. I have a few problems with the car right now that are probably related. I've had the car for about 4 years nows, and I've always had an erratic idling problem. About half the time it idles fine, but the other half of the time it will idle around 1500-2000 rpms. Sometimes fluctuating. Over the past few years I've replaced the TPS, IAC sensor, MAP sensor, catalytic converter, fuel filter. The idling problem has always been there. I thought there may be a vacuum leak somewhere around the intake or somewhere but I haven't found any.
    The problem I'm having right now that is the main issue is that while accelerating the car bogs down and just about dies. If I hit the gas lightly it's fine. But once I accelerate a bit it just completely bogs out. If I hold the pedal in that position, sometimes it will actually die out. If I let off the gas it will come back. Or if I floor it, it's fine. This bogging problem is not every time I drive it, but about half the time now. Also when going up steep hills it will do the same thing. Car never has a problem starting back up. I've been thinking it could be the crankshaft position sensor or maybe the cam shaft position sensor. Engine light comes on and off quite a bit. It's got the OBD1 connector but jumping the wires doesn't make the engine light flash, so I can't get any codes
    Any ideas?

  • #2
    As it is a 94 it should be a hybrid OBD1-OBD2 which some call OBD1.5. You can take it to an auto parts store and they will scan it.
    Do you buy cheap gas by chance? Some of that stuff has water in it, but all gas can if you fill up just after the tanker refills the stations tanks. Try some IsoHeet and see if that helps the bog.
    What did you use to check for intake leaks?
    95 Beretta 3100 with 3400 intakes and TCE TB
    High flow cat and a Magnaflow muffler
    Grand Prix trans with 3.33FDR

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    • #3
      Tried asking autozone to scan it and they wouldn't because it still has the obd1 style connector. And yeah, I always use the cheapest gas around. I checked the intake by spraying carb cleaner around it to see if it would affect the idle. It didn't do anything.
      Not sure how I can get the codes read. Unless there's an adapter of sorts they make?

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      • #4
        Those guys are full of crap. Unless all they had was an OBD2 connector and I don't think that was the case. Try another store or another companys store, they will have to use a OBD1 connector as I'm sure you know.
        Carb cleaner does work, but last time I tried it on my 3100 it didn't. My upper gasket was ripped and I think that had something to do with that. Just not a large enough hole to make the idle go up when the carb cleaner was sprayed(or I just wasn't close enough with the straw).
        95 Beretta 3100 with 3400 intakes and TCE TB
        High flow cat and a Magnaflow muffler
        Grand Prix trans with 3.33FDR

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        • #5
          definitely check out what code(s) are getting set. as far as anybody is concerned, it's full OBD1 and should be treated as such.

          if i had to guess based on that description, kind of sounds like a laggy O2 sensor.
          1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E...for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!
          Latest nAst1 files here!
          Need a wiring diagram for any GM car or truck from 82-06(and 07-08 cars)? PM me!

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          • #6
            Most local parts places do only have OBDII stuff... They can't scan OBDI or OBDI.5 codes.

            Got Lope?
            3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
            Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
            Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
            12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

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            • #7
              I did a bunch of research online and found my bogging problem to be related to my coolant temp sensor. This is something I didn't even think if. Apparently the faulty sensor may think the engine is still cold and therefor dump too much fuel into the motor and making it bog. Makes sense after I thought about it. So I replaced the sensor this morning and it seems to run great. Not bad for an $12 part. Hopefully it will continue to work good. Only put about ten miles on it so far so we'll see.

              However the engine light has still come on a few times. Not nearly as much as it was before tho. Engine idles way better than it was but still has a slight fluctuation. I'm still leaning towards the crankshaft position sensor, mainly because I think that might be the only one I haven't replaced yet. Anyone know what symptoms of a bad crankshaft sensor could be? Also, should my car have a camshaft positioning sensor? I can't seem to locate one. Really wish I could find an easy way to get the codes read without paying a shop to do it

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              • #8
                If you have a laptop go to aldlcable.com and buy the cable for your car and check the ECM yourself.
                1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
                1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
                Because... I am, CANADIAN

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