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  • Water pump clearance?

    I'm having issues.... I'm trying to finish my 3.4 swap into my jimmy today, and the water pump off my 85 2.8 is rubbing on the timing cover on my 3.4.
    The timing cover I'm using is from the 3.4 crate engine, and all the bolt holes and coolant passages line up, so I'm confident it's the correct rotation for the v-belt setup.
    The water pump shaft appears to be too long for this timing cover, as only the little hub on the end of the shaft is rubbing.
    I believe i'm using the correct gasket, however, the old 2.8 timing cover shows some signs of contact, but definatly could be spun by hand with no belt on.
    The water pump is also a GM part, according to the impeller blade.

    Any suggestions?

  • #2
    Use the 2.8 cover if its the same pattern. If not look into a 3.4 pump and see if there is a difference. Why not replace it anyway and have one less thing to worry about for $40 or so.

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    • #3
      To use the 2.8 cover I have to pull the motor again to use the matching oil pan and horrible gasket setup.
      I ended up buying a new pump, the Chinese one I got has a lifetime warranty and a shorter shaft end... It'll work.

      Another quick Q.
      When I was priming my motor, I was able to get oil to come out all the push rod ends, but NO oil was pouring out of the slot up by the distributor. I remember when I was priming my 2.8 on my last head-gasket change, oil streamed out of this passage so much I had to stuff it with rags.
      Is there a design change from the 2.8 to the 3.4 or is something not right??

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      • #4
        I always cracked it with the fuel pump fuse pulled for 10 second intervals and just waited for the oil pressure gauge to build up. Last 3400 I built I didn't prime it. Kind of forgot but the oils pressure went up right away so I had no issues.

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        • #5
          Thanks man. I can fire this up tonight without worrying now

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          • #6
            I would crank it with the fuel pump fuse pulled an look at your oils pressure gauge. If you don't have one then when your start it make sure your oils light goes off in 20 seconds or so if not then you probably have an oiling problem.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by cavalier3400z View Post
              I would crank it with the fuel pump fuse pulled an look at your oils pressure gauge. If you don't have one then when your start it make sure your oils light goes off in 20 seconds or so if not then you probably have an oiling problem.
              Got her running last night, oil pressure was good. Broke the motor in with no problems other than a bad choke setting on the carb.
              My valvetrain is noisier than I expected, are the magnum rockers noisier than stamped steel ones?
              Maybe I'll check my lash again....

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              • #8
                I don't know but my valve train sounded like a can if nails being bounced around for a few days then it got real quiet. Probably just needs a good drive to get everything coated in oil.

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                • #9
                  Yeah, I know what you mean.
                  Every time I drive it, it gets quieter and smoother. I guess that's why they call it "break-in"

                  Thanks!

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                  • #10
                    I have the Magnum rockers and they are no more noticeable than the stockers. After a bit of driving if it is not silent then check your lifter preload.

                    Do you have a "Crate" 3.4L or a "Camaro" 3.4L? Or did you just make the cover swap to the "crate" cover? One way to know is to compare your stock timing cover to the new one and make sure the swirl pattern is the same. Make damn sure you don't put a standard rotation pump one a reverse rotation cover or you will end up with serious cooling issues. The bolt patterns and coolant passages are the same between all of the RWD pumps.
                    1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
                    1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
                    Because... I am, CANADIAN

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