2.8L (Gen 2) Specifications

[85_Olds_Ciera]

I was noticing on 2.8L (Gen 2) Specifications for oil pressure, the specs are:

(10 psi @ 500 RPM; 30-55 psi @ 2000R RPM)

but, I've noticed on 1989-Chevrolet-Beretta V-6 specs on page four are

55-60 psi @ 1200 RPM


I would assume with 5W30 oil (kinematic viscosity of 64/10) at engine temperature.

[pocket-rocket]

About the only engines I would expect to see 55-60psi @ 1200 RPM would be any of the DOHC engines. I wouldn't expect to see it on any of the pushrods. 30-55 @ 2000 sounds more like it.

[85_Olds_Ciera]

About the only engines I would expect to see 55-60psi @ 1200 RPM would be any of the DOHC engines.

With new set of rods/mains and new oil pump on 2.8, one can see that oil pressure (55-60psi @ 1200 RPM) first thing in the morning when cold with Mobil 1 0W30 with kinematic viscosity of 62.9/10.9.

[geoffinbc]

Yea I get about 60 to 70 cold but 50 to 55 when hot. At hot idle I get 25 psi.

Remember those are MINIMUM specs. If you get more thats ok it just means the pump is in good shape and clearances are tight.

[85_Olds_Ciera]

At hot idle I get 25 psi.

What specific brand & weight motor oil are you using?

I have two Berettas, on my 1988 with 276,000 miles and new oil pump at about 152,000 miles, this 2.8 with

HAVOLINE® HIGH MILEAGE MOTOR OILS WITH DEPOSIT SHIELD: 10W-30
kinematic viscosity: 64/12


will exceed your pressure at hot idle, by a pound or two.

[geoffinbc]

I use 5W30 Redline. That is the lowest I have ever seen mind you. Right now in winter it is in the 30PSI area. I also have Autometer gauges so it is more accurate than stock

[85_Olds_Ciera]

I use 5W30 Redline.

5W30 Motor Oil

Vis @ 100°C, cSt 	10.6
Vis @ 40°C, cSt 	      62

My 1988 Berreta is using a bit thicker oil: HAVOLINE® HIGH MILEAGE MOTOR OILS WITH DEPOSIT SHIELD: 10W-30 kinematic viscosity: 64/12

But, for your engine, you could also use: Mobil 1 0W30 with kinematic viscosity of 62.9/10.9.

Here, you can Calculate the Actual Oil Viscosity at the Operating Temperature of your Equipment

Up there, where its colder, a 0w20 might be a better oil for early morning starts.

[geoffinbc]

Its not that cold here. Typically it hovers just above or below freezing in winter. I am close to the ocean so it is very mild. Your really over thinking your oil here. Your not racing. Just buy a good oil thats the same viscosity the manufacturer recommens and you will be fine.

I run Redline with extended drain intervals so it actually costs me less than a conventional oi changed at 5000Km

[pocket-rocket]

Your really over thinking your oil here. Your not racing. Just buy a good oil thats the same viscosity the manufacturer recommends.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[85_Olds_Ciera]

Just buy a good oil thats the same viscosity the manufacturer recommends and you will be fine....extended drain intervals

Mobil 1 0W-30 can be used where a 5W-30, 10W-30 or 0W-30 is recommended, and it can be used with extended drain interval (15,000 miles) if one is selective on oil filters. In my case, I plan on changing oil filter 1/2 thru extended drain interval.

Mobil 1 does meet General Motors GM4718M, and General Motors GM 6094M specifications, or exceeds them, btw.

Extended-Life Oils: It's Safe To Switch

"Many oil companies are releasing extended-life oils that are guaranteed for the specific mileage listed on the bottle. Mobil's most advanced fully synthetic product, Mobil 1 Extended Performance, for instance, is guaranteed for 15,000 miles. The company recommends it for vehicles that are beyond their warranty period. This is an important point because many automakers will void your warranty if you do not follow their recommended service intervals.

Owners who change their oil themselves and are looking to extend the time between oil changes can safely switch to a 15,000-mile oil and make a lot fewer trips to the mechanic. They also should switch to a high-mileage oil filter, since the factory filter wasn't designed for extended intervals."

[85_Olds_Ciera]

Your really over thinking your oil here.

Breaking the 3,000-Mile Habit

Published: 08/24/2010

Oil technology has changed enormously over the last 30 years making the 3,000-mile oil change unnecessary in nearly all vehicles. | August 26, 2010 |
...
...
...
Among 2010 models, the average recommended oil change interval, based on a normal service schedule, is about 7,800 miles — more than double the traditional 3,000-mile interval. The longest oil change interval is 20,000 miles, for all Porsches. The shortest oil change interval is 5,000 miles in some late-model Toyotas, but the carmaker has begun shifting its fleet to 10,000-mile oil change intervals using synthetic oil.



SideNote - They never address older vehicles with blowby...just those engines with "Tighter tolerances."

[pocket-rocket]

I feel like we should be registering www.85_Olds_Cieraistheoilguy.com.



We aren't building top fuel titanium rotating assembly beasts.

The oil technology most people use is just fine for what we do. Yeah, I wouldn't suggest going to Wal-Mart and buying some 5-30 Supertech oil and trying to turn 8k rpm with it while maintaining a 10k change interval, but you really are overdoing it studying oil for what people do on these forums.

If someone wants to change their oil at 3k (I go 5k myself), let them. That just means their oil is that cleaner and they take that much better care of their vehicle.

[85_Olds_Ciera]

The oil technology most people use is just fine for what we do

Different strokes, different folks...in my case, after buying a 1989 Beretta with some 120K miles, I noticed it didn't burn 5w30, so after 1k miles, I switched it to Mobil 0w30 for winter months. Just an experiment, but with extended oil change mileage, one is paying about the same for regular oil...I'm using AC PF52, but I see on Amazon one can get the Mobil 1 M1-201 Extended Performance Oil Filter for $8.00.

Hence, dollars and cents wise, if you don't have an oil burner, it may be cheaper to run synthetic...economics and good maintenance.

[geoffinbc]

I run Redline oil with a filter change between. I change the filter every 7000Kms and oil every 14,000kms. I am changing more often then I need to but it is still cheaper than changing normal oil every 5000Kms to 7000Kms. At least this way if I let it go a little long between changes I will be safe. I also use a remote filter location with a Baldwin B2 filter than holds 1L of oil. So I think I am set when it come to oil.

Oh yea. I also have a spin on remote mount coolant filter.

On an interesting side note. I recently sold off my old 3.4L from my S-10 and after year of use everything was crazy clean under the valve covers and the oil pan. I used the same oil practices on that thing as I do on all my current vehicles.

[85_Olds_Ciera]

...filter every 7000Kms...Baldwin B2 filter...1L of oil.

Baldwind filter may explain higher pressure, but changing filter is most important if filter can not hold that much particulate. Using a larger filter, which I do, can make a big difference.

1989 GM Change Interval - non dusty and short trip conditions, they suggested oil changes at 7,500 miles (12,500 Kilometers) and filter at 15,000 miles (24140 Kilometers); if done once a year, both oil and filter changed.

I think when adding oil between oil changes, the schedule should be changed. As in, change oil when one quart (2 liter) is lost if just less than mileage based oil change time. But, if always adding oil, just change filter until oil looks dirty:-)

clean under the valve covers and the oil pan.

Any vehicle with regular "hot" oil changes will tend to always be clean...cold oil changes can leave sludge in bottom of pan, especially with longer interval between changes.