ICM Ground Points?

[Schmieder]

96 GPse 3100v6 SFI

Does the ignition control module ground to the manifold via the aluminum mount? Or is it grounded via ground wire from a connector? Or both?

[Superdave]

the 2 pin plug (not the CPS input) is the power to it. One lead is grounded to the engine somewhere, the other is hot during run. It is not grounded through the mount.

[Schmieder]

Thanks, I guess that rules out that possibility. The connectors are clean, when I paint I cover EVERYTHING with plastic and blue tape. I was a pro painter for a LONG time.

Another question if you don't mind.....

The low resolution crank sensor, I learned it operates on resistance value, not voltage necessarily. How delicate is that PPL/YEL twisted wire? I spliced the wire near the pigtail and used crimps to connect. The connection is good but now I wonder if the slightest addition of resistance from the crimps would ruin the low res CPS signal.

This car just does not want to run, ugh!

I did notice the engine wants to turn backwards at times when it is just about stalled out from the extrememly rough idle attempt. And I learned the ICM determines which direction the crank is spinning, so I believe the ICM isn't working right....or maybe the wires to the CPS, or the ground.......but i am now looking at the ICM. But it worked perfectly before the manual swap, so I can't see it breaking so easily. All my parts were warm and dry indoor on a shelf, nice and safe.

And I still have the voltage loss issue. I am lossing voltage somewhere and I can't find it. I thought I found it but nah, it's still there....

[bszopi]

The CPS wire is VERY sensitive. The crimp connections are most likely your issue. Even soldering the wire can sometimes cause issues. Also make sure you keep the required twist of the wire.

Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk

[Schmieder]

The CPS wire is VERY sensitive. The crimp connections are most likely your issue. Even soldering the wire can sometimes cause issues. Also make sure you keep the required twist of the wire.

Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk

I tried that, no real change, same old stumble and die thing. I did a really tight and clean soder to the connector removing the crimps, maintained the twist and shielded it with a grounded cover. I have a nice CPS wire now , lol

Though, I ran a modest gauge copper wire from the ground at the bellhousing to the batt (-) and THAT provided a MUCH better attempt at running. though still not actually running yet. Like gaining a cylinder back from misfiring, though the pattern of misfire is completely chaotic to the engine revs.

After that, I stepped back and thought to myself how I should get a dedicated "00" gauge copper ground cable to run to the trunk mounted battery. Other end to the block. From the block mount split onto the sub-frame, trans bellhousing and frame.

Am I surprised? Not really, I wish I tested the grounds better in the past. I guess alligator jumper cables aren't good enough.

And if this fails, well, I'll have a really nice CPS wire AND and really nice grounding network......hehe

Thanks

[Schmieder]

The CPS wire is VERY sensitive. The crimp connections are most likely your issue. Even soldering the wire can sometimes cause issues. Also make sure you keep the required twist of the wire.

Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk

Any advise ensuring the soder job is good enough for the CPS wire? So long as the joint has less resistance then the wire itself?

[1988GTU]

GM still sells that cps wire. Just make sure you order one for the W body as that one is the longest I believe.