95 3.1 Oil Pressure Help!

[95Lumina3.1SS]

okay so I purchased a oil pressure tester. Hooked it up and no pressure, in fact theres no oil even on the end of the part where the sender goes. I don't understand this. It worked fine until the pump went out that day. there was knock or anything of any sort with it. I haven't changed the filter yet, maybe that's it. the dipstick reads full, i thought maybe I didnt have pick up tube on correctly. I assumed it sucked oil through, because it had valvetrain noise prior to replacing pump, which it no longer does. So im stuck and have no idea where to go or what to do next. i mean the pump driveshaft just slid up into bottom end like it was supposed to. I jst don't see how a pump going out and me immediately turning the car off, caused all this shit. The engines not seized, im afraid to try anything else, afraid it will seize up.

[bszopi]

Pull off a valve cover and rotate the engine by hand. I'm starting to agree with CNCguy, that you have a snapped cam, and the oil pump drive shaft is no longer rotating because of it. With the valve cover off, rotate 360 degrees and watch for valve movement, especially the rockers on the back (driver's side) of the engine.

[95Lumina3.1SS]

I'll do that then. I know for a fact on the front side where you can see pull the oil cap off some of them open up. i did rotate the engine by hand at one point and didnt remember any issues. It's worth a shot again. I just don't give up and ditch something. But pull both covers off and rotate it?

[pocket-rocket]

I would just pull the front, IIRC, the driver side most valves run at the very end of the cam. I'm starting to agree with Marc and Brad on this as well. Especially since there was no oil in the sender port and you get 0 pressure. I would at least hold on to the pump out of that engine if you get a 3100 or 3400 to put in it if it's something good like a Melling.

[95Lumina3.1SS]

last time I checked on front all seemed to open. the pump is a melling too. Ill test it tomorrow

[pocket-rocket]

I bet if you get a priming tool and hook a drill to it and run that pump with a drill you get pressure. I would try that if all front valves do open. That would at least tell you if the cam is or isn't turning the oil pump. I've got a cam in the garage from a 3100 that snapped right in front of the last 2 cylinders on it (5&6). I believe the distributor/oil pump gear is on that last part between the journals at the very end and in front of 5 & 6, but that doesn't mean it couldn't snap between the lobes for the last cylinder and the drive gear. Even looking down the distributor hole while turning the engine over would tell you if it's broke if all valves on the front head move.

[95Lumina3.1SS]

I may have some time tomorrow to check into it. I do need to get a fuel line disconnect tool, which idk which one to get :/ I;'ll figure it out. So I need to pull my valve covers off, turn it manually and see if they open. Got it. I hope this is the fix. You've no idea. I'm sick as shit about this thing being broken. It's driving me insane! I might as well throw a crane cam in if it's broken! haha

[pocket-rocket]

I may have some time tomorrow to check into it. I do need to get a fuel line disconnect tool, which idk which one to get :/ I;'ll figure it out. So I need to pull my valve covers off, turn it manually and see if they open. Got it. I hope this is the fix. You've no idea. I'm sick as shit about this thing being broken. It's driving me insane! I might as well throw a crane cam in if it's broken! haha

Well, you would want the cam bearings replaced first, and since that requires block removal it would be best to have the block taken to a machine shop and checked out- mostly the cam bearing bores, but may as well have them give it a once over while it's out and apart. After that I would toss in a WOT cam. Ben can help you get the right cam for what you want to accomplish.

[95Lumina3.1SS]

yeah idk what I'll do. If a cam is broken do I still need to take those steps? I mean I just feel like it's broken then I'd be just as cheap to replace the engine but i honestly haven't thought much more into it. A few months back I happened upon WOT stuff and man was I impressed! I'd love to have one of there top ends with LS5 valves and valve springs, a cam, port/polish etc. But I really am on a budget. i have very little money to spend.

[pocket-rocket]

Actually yeah. After machine work, cam cost, ect. it would be cheaper just to toss a 3400 at it for a replacement along with a power increase. Be sure to look inside the oil fill though so you can get an idea on the condition of the engine. I'm sure you know what you don't want to see in there, lol. As far as prep work before the install, if you get it from a yard and have no way of knowing the maintenance history on it I would change the LIM gaskets with the metal FelPro problem solvers for a little piece of mind. I would also avoid Fram oil filters.

[95Lumina3.1SS]

Actually yeah. After machine work, cam cost, ect. it would be cheaper just to toss a 3400 at it for a replacement along with a power increase. Be sure to look inside the oil fill though so you can get an idea on the condition of the engine. I'm sure you know what you don't want to see in there, lol. As far as prep work before the install, if you get it from a yard and have no way of knowing the maintenance history on it I would change the LIM gaskets with the metal FelPro problem solvers for a little piece of mind. I would also avoid Fram oil filters.

im actually looking at a 2002 LG8 3.1. hopefully itll be a good move

[60dgrzbelow0]

Stephen...regardless of which way you go on this...for the sake of the forum and what we might find out...would you please save the Oil Filter from this engine. We would be curious to know what it has collected inside. This can be determined by carefully cutting it open in a plastic bucket of kerosene and swishing the filter elements around until any Metal Mung falls out to the bottom. Then ...take a strong magnet and drag it around the bottom of the bucket and look for any ferrous metal being picked up. If you see stuff on the magnet...it might be anything from steel cylinder shavings to fractions of the camshaft where it may have snapped. Anything left in there that looks either like the dull lustre of aluminium or a coppery/bronze colour will probably be the remnants of the the bi-metal bearings rather than the straight aluminium silicate style. Your autopsy holds the promise of edifying us and for the use future readers of this post will obtain in the diagnostic triage they might employ to save their engines too, Memorialising what you find in digital photos posted back to your own thread would be most helpful to our collective understanding. Thanks in Advance!

[95Lumina3.1SS]

of course I will do that for you guys. funny you say that..my 2 past oil changes have had bronze dust (bearings) so..its been screaming rebuild. I kind of think what i'll do is buy this LG8 and swap them. I can get a motor stand for around 80.00. I'll put my L82 on it and work on it as I have time. IF it's not completely ruined I'll rebuild it. Maybe even stronger. i'd love to keep it original. if not oh well. I do have a question. Since I have 95 model. Will I need to do any additional stuff seeing as how it's a OBD 1 vehicle? I need to know all my stuff before going through with it.

[bszopi]

Go to 3x00swap.com and download the 3400 swap guide. Most of it will apply to you, or at least give you an idea of what all is involved.

[95Lumina3.1SS]

oh and I meant to say an LG8 is a 3.1. I just didn't know if there was anything I needed to do as far as EGR valve, etc.