95 3.1 Oil Pressure Help!

[95Lumina3.1SS]

I have a 1995 Lumina LS 3.1. My oil pump went out in november. I have replaced the oil pump, pick up screen, kept the OEM shaft. Also have replaced the sending unit. In the process I replaced a bad coil also. I have the car put back together and still have an oil light. I have no idea where to go from here. prior to the pump going out, I had no problems other than that coil. I did replace with an OEM one. Also put NGK plugs, and BWD wires. While the cradle was dropped, I replaced the transmission mount and motor mount too. All this is irrelevant to oil pressure, just making sure everyone knows all that has been done. The car has 92,000 miles on it. Only thing is it was wrecked and did sit for almost 2 years but was periodically ran.

[60dgrzbelow0]

When "the oil pump went out in November..." How did you know about the problem... Was it just from the Dash Warning Light aka "IL" or did the engine overheat, make a racket or stop running altogether? Unscrewing the Oil Pressure Sensor and installing a temporary analogue Oil Line and oil Pressure Gauge with enough length to lay across the fender or on the near the windshield so you can read the immediate pressure response at idle. If it is below 30 PSI...then worn or heat damaged camshaft and crankshaft bearings may have occurred,,, back in November.

[95Lumina3.1SS]

When "the oil pump went out in November..." How did you know about the problem... Was it just from the Dash Warning Light aka "IL" or did the engine overheat, make a racket or stop running altogether? Unscrewing the Oil Pressure Sensor and installing a temporary analogue Oil Line and oil Pressure Gauge with enough length to lay across the fender or on the near the windshield so you can read the immediate pressure response at idle. If it is below 30 PSI...then worn or heat damaged camshaft and crankshaft bearings may have occurred,,, back in November.

had idiot light, valvetrain noise and motor would turn itself off. no longer has noise just what apears to be a miss and idiot light. no other probs prior to this. also I just fixed car yesterday. its sat since nov.

[60dgrzbelow0]

Stephen... Please disregard my suggestion to try and start the car at all until you have considered pulling at least one of the main caps on the crankshaft line and see whether any Babbitt material is left or whether there are signs of "heat bluing" from being run dry. If you continue to try to start the engine after so much stress... it might make matters worse. There are many good mechanics here who would agree with me that there is no sin in trying to scour the nearby junk yards and Crag's List to find a decent replacement engine ...and forgo adding insult to injury by trying to fix this one ....especially if you need the car up and running any time soon.

[95Lumina3.1SS]

I don't NEED the car running, I just want something more fuel efficient. My 08 F150 4.6 isn't exactly economical. I do want to rebuild this motor if I need to. I'd like to think it doesn't need it though. There was traces of bearing babbit in the oil pan (brass colored dust). When the pan was pulled to do pump i did see years of grossness in the oil pan but cleaned all of it out. little do I want to pull it again but i will do whatever I need to do. This was a free car. It was my grandmothers and I totaled it in 2008. so we did a rear clip, etc. I have maybe 1500 in it. My plan was to own, drive, and repair it as needed for life. SHe passed away in June so theres much sentimental value to it. I have considered an L67 and 4t65hd in it. I have also thought of an LG8 over an L82 like it has now. So..another question here. Will it matter if I use a 96+ motor over mine being 95? I also own a 96 Monte Carlo LS haha black also! I know EGR, compressor, intake, etc are diff as well as OBD2 compliant. northernautoparts has everything to rebuild it cheap. I have also found the shortblock for sale for 70.00 without components. Any other ideas? Wish it had a 3100 turbo! haha

[pocket-rocket]

If you are going for economical, don't go with an L67. I would stay with the 3100 route if I were you. A 96 should fit fine, but I'm not 100% on the differences between years. I do believe yours has the small port 3100 intake though. Does it have lines on the top and 2 bolts holding the UIM down per port? If you are willing to rebuild, you may as well pull the caps like Bob mentions. It could mean the difference between trashing a crank or keeping it in decent condition. How long did it run before you shut it down when the pump went, and how long have you run it since? That would be what I would consider to say yeah, check the pressure or no, just go strait to cap pulling. If you are interested in doing a 3100 turbo, talk to Shmieder, he's got a GP with a 3100 and a turbo.

[95Lumina3.1SS]

yeah i do like the 3.1. It's a great engine. I am disappointed to be in this situation with 92.000 original miles on my car. it's a real bummer. the day it broke, the car started missing, then the oil press light came on, i IMMEDIATELY turned it off. i had to start it to put it on a tow dolly, but it kept turning itself off. I'd be willing to bet since it broke the car hasn't run for a total of 2 minutes. long enough to hear noises, diagnose issues etc. no more than literally seconds at a time. Idk, as I said there was babbet in the pan when i dropped it. However now, the car doesn't turn itself off, I have that control now. So..I'm at a loss. Also yes, mine has 2 bolts per port. I do like LG8 but I will stick with L82, more readily avaliable, etc. I envy the two Getrag 282's you own. I'd love one on my engine! make a bad ass sedan! my monte carlo, is a bit different though even with it being 96 and the Lumina being 95. It's had lots of work, wish now i'd have never put cradle back on, etc. That steering intermediate shaft bolt is a bitch and a half to take off and reinstall, especially when you seperate the shaft from stub to drop off the r&p. I don't want to ruin the engine, I hope this one can be salvaged mostly. As earlier stated northernautoparts have rod bearings, main bearings, rods, and cranks super cheap. All warrantied.

[siKKa]

cut your losses and get yourself a decent 3400 from a wrecker. a bit more bang for the buck, and fuel efficiant.

[95Lumina3.1SS]

cut your losses and get yourself a decent 3400 from a wrecker. a bit more bang for the buck, and fuel efficiant.

I have considered 3400's before. I just know L67's will fit well. Only reason I have to want to stick with a 3100 is that I just invested money into brand new parts for it. (pump, motor mounts, etc) why let that go to waist? If i ever do find a complete l67 with the 4t65 and all im buying it if it's low mileage and cheap. I found one recently with harness, cv axles, engine, and tranny for 1100.00 buy it now. Shoulda bought it! 75,000 on it. will 3100 stuff fit 3400?

[siKKa]

its all interchangable.

[95Lumina3.1SS]

its all interchangable.

what are specs on 3.4 i know newer ones make almost 2 if nt over. I still would like to try salvaging mine. if i do a 3.4 how much wrk is theree with wiring? 4t60 wrks? what else should I check on my car? also just to double chek.. my pump m ou nts etc will wrk? I dnt want to spend pointless cash wot tech has nice upgrades. id cam it!

[pocket-rocket]

3400 and 3100 are almost identical. Wiring is direct swap over, and yes, the 4t60 will bolt right up. Pump and mounts do work. Basically if you got a 3400 you might have to swap timing chain covers because not all car body style timing covers are the same. I helped in a 96 Olds Achieva 3100 to 2k? 3400 swap. Other things that might be different are EGR mounting, exhaust manifolds and fuel rail style, but it's not like you can't swap all that stuff over.

Thanks for the compliment on the Getrags, but mine are 284's and are a bit more rare than the 282's They were only offered behind the DOHC in a W body from 91-93.

[95Lumina3.1SS]

3400 and 3100 are almost identical. Wiring is direct swap over, and yes, the 4t60 will bolt right up. Pump and mounts do work. Basically if you got a 3400 you might have to swap timing chain covers because not all car body style timing covers are the same. I helped in a 96 Olds Achieva 3100 to 2k? 3400 swap. Other things that might be different are EGR mounting, exhaust manifolds and fuel rail style, but it's not like you can't swap all that stuff over.

Thanks for the compliment on the Getrags, but mine are 284's and are a bit more rare than the 282's They were only offered behind the DOHC in a W body from 91-93.

wow so its as easy as keeping a 3.1. nice..lucky u and those tranntys. one question. I nvvrlet my car run long after I installed that new pump. should I?

[95Lumina3.1SS]

So here's a brush of good news. i was checking craigslist, and what do u know?! an LG8 3.1 for sale for 300.00. Runs great, etc. Another great part is it's the same engine as the older 3.4 so..it's like 20 more HP than my engine now. Will this still direct fit? wiring and all? keep in mind, mines obd1 and a 95

[CNCguy]

Pull your front valve cover and watch the rocker arms as someone cranks it over. To me, it has the symptoms of a broken camshaft. When the cam breaks, the oil pump stops turning and some of the valves stop moving causing it to miss on those cylinders.

A 3100/3400 engine swap is definitely the cheapest, easiest, fastest and best route to take.