Crank Pulley Removal

[HOYS]

Trying to remove the crank pulled on my block (3.4) that I just aquired.

The bolt holding it on is in there good. I've tried 6PT sockets and an extenstion, no luck so far.

Tips tricks?

Pics:

[bszopi]

Looks like its getting rounded off. I would have recommended an impact gun otherwise. If you have access to a welder, you could probably weld on a nut to the end and then use an impact. Either way, you are going to need to replace the bolt when replacing it.

[HOYS]

Yeah...

No air tools here. This shouldn't be torqued too hard...manual says 52 ftlbs + 85 deg. Let some liquid wrench sit on it and give it a tug? I was using a 15mm 6PT, is that the right size?

[Axe_1]

In the car trick is to use a socket, breaker bar, and 2-3ft pipe over the handle for leverage. If that doesn't do it you hold the socket in place with the pipe firmly against the ground in the direction of rotation and have someone you trust "Tap" the ignition. Cranking the starter has always had enough torque to break the seal for me.

Outside the vehicle like this one I would suggest the same setup with the pipe extension, but turned by hand. As long as the crank doesn't turn on you it will place slow even pressure on it instead of jarring the bolt with an impact. You still may need a second person to hold the socket firmly on the bolt.

If that doesn't work you can sometimes file the bolt head down to the next size. If it's metric, then file it enough to tap a standard socket tightly over it, and if it's standard, file it enough to tap a metric socket tightly on it.

Believe it or not this works if you are careful and only take off small amounts. You can also use a grinding disk but go slow. You are really just trying to square it back up with minimal removal.

Axe

EDIT: Just thinking that this is another case in favor of good sockets like Snap-On. They are designed to add tension closer to the middle of each flat side, instead of on the weaker outer corners like most sockets.

[Dave96z34]

That happen to me use a good 6point and a impact gun. You will do more damage using a breaker bar and use PB on the bolt. If that doesn't work grind the head flat to the washer and once the stress is off it then it will turn out with a vice grip or put a steering wheel puller on it and take the dampener off. for more access.

[HOYS]

It looks like the bolt is going to have to be ground off. From what I can tell the bolt and washer behind it are all one assembly, at least the black part. Am I correct?

If I grind the head off to get the dampener off, will I still be able to get the remnants out of the crank without destroying anything?

[SappySE107]

The washer is seperate of the bolt head. You can either clean/weld a nut to it, or cut the head off and use a puller to get TONS of thread to play with. I would use a cut off wheel to cut the head off and deal with it from there.

[HOYS]

The washer is seperate of the bolt head. You can either clean/weld a nut to it, or cut the head off and use a puller to get TONS of thread to play with. I would use a cut off wheel to cut the head off and deal with it from there.

Thanks Ben, I'll take my cut off wheel to it tomorrow and hopefully pull everything off it in time to get it to a shop to check to see if the block is good.

[HOYS]

Got the bolt off by cutting an X on the face, lost grip on the washer after I beat the corners inwards, turned it off with my hand. Used a puller to get the balancer off.

Now removing the pistons, what is the correct socket, that I can hopefully pick up locally, to turn the crank while removing the pistons? I've seen a few out there, ebay and what not, but I'm not sure which to get.

Thanks again all!