Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Drill/Tap oil pan turbo drain

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Drill/Tap oil pan turbo drain

    Hi, despite searching, I can't find any info. Curious to know what others have done on the 3100/3400/3500 cast alum. oil pans...

    Does 1/2" NPT tap and 23/32" drill bit seem like the right thing here? With a male 1/2" NPT to -10AN male fitting ??

    I wonder if i should go with NPT thread or just regular machine thread with a oring seal. ??

    this : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-670710/

    OR

    this :

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-660501/

    I am not afraid of drilling and tapping, Ihave the pan out already... I just want to know what would be the best way to do it, NPT or machine thread. What's stonger ??
    Last edited by Mars; 04-12-2010, 09:18 PM.
    11.92 @ 122 MPH 3400 91 Cavalier Z24 Intercooled S/C. -totalled-
    10.56 @ 130 MPH 3900 LZ9 87 IROC Z28 Intercooled GT4088 Turbo

  • #2
    I went with NPT thread, 1/2 NPT to -10AN.

    Oh and, good choice on the turbo.

    Comment


    • #3

      Here's a link to a thread that is similar to what you ask... Mostly after post #15
      Good luck!!
      Tom....

      Comment


      • #4
        I suggest you drill it a little small and use a tapered reamer to finalize the taper, or you may not get a good seal. Don't forget, you should have only about 2 turns until it's hand tight.

        For ease (and accuracy if you are using hand tools), the machine thread and o-ring may be better.

        The first link you posted is made more for a punched steel pan, drill a hole and put the nut on the other side.
        Links:
        WOT-Tech.com
        FaceBook
        Instagram

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
          I suggest you drill it a little small and use a tapered reamer to finalize the taper, or you may not get a good seal. Don't forget, you should have only about 2 turns until it's hand tight.

          For ease (and accuracy if you are using hand tools), the machine thread and o-ring may be better.

          The first link you posted is made more for a punched steel pan, drill a hole and put the nut on the other side.
          If you have the pan out you could weld in a bung and never worry about leaks. The pans are cast and if you clean up the area where you are going to weld it welds real nice.

          Comment

          Working...
          X