I cannot for the life of me get this crankshaft gear off. It is in the block so I need to find a way to get this one off and put the new one on without damaging anything. Anyone have any ideas? I'm going to spray some PB blaster on it and let it set over night. Hopefully that will help.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
crankshaft gear removal
Collapse
X
-
crankshaft gear removal
1999 Grand Am SC/T - 301HP, 365TQ - ARP Rod Bolts, ARP Oil Pan Bolts, ARP Head Studs, Mild Cam, 3500 Heads w/28696 Springs, Ported 3500 LIM & 3400 UIM, GT32R @ 12PSI, Rebuilt Trans, 42.5 Injectors, Racetronix Fuel Pump, TCE Adjustable FPR, SC/T Kit, SC/T Spoiler, Shaved Trunk, WOT-Tech Coil Overs, Solid Rear Laterals w/Poly Bushings, Control Arms w/Poly Bushings, Poly Engine & Trans Mounts, Front & Rear Strut BracesTags: None
-
Your need a puller. It is a press fit. I found I needed to grind my puller jaws on the back side in order to fit between the gear and main bearing.1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
Because... I am, CANADIAN
-
What about getting it on?1999 Grand Am SC/T - 301HP, 365TQ - ARP Rod Bolts, ARP Oil Pan Bolts, ARP Head Studs, Mild Cam, 3500 Heads w/28696 Springs, Ported 3500 LIM & 3400 UIM, GT32R @ 12PSI, Rebuilt Trans, 42.5 Injectors, Racetronix Fuel Pump, TCE Adjustable FPR, SC/T Kit, SC/T Spoiler, Shaved Trunk, WOT-Tech Coil Overs, Solid Rear Laterals w/Poly Bushings, Control Arms w/Poly Bushings, Poly Engine & Trans Mounts, Front & Rear Strut Braces
Comment
-
that's something you're gonna have to take up with your significant other....
is it odd/strange that on my last 2 motors that i could slide the crank sprocket on and off by hand?
i'd say heat it up to expand it but that could compromise a lot of strength... soo..... i'd say make sure the crnak is clean of burrs and such(remove any with emery cloth, gently), then make sure you put some oil on it and coerce it on with oh, say, a small piece of pipe(to hit the sprocket but not but crank snout) and a mallet sounds liek it'd work good to me, long as you're careful.
Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
Cammed 3500 --> ???
1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies
Comment
-
Originally posted by RedBird View Postthat's something you're gonna have to take up with your significant other....
Yeah, I'll try tapping it on with a pipe. Unless anyone else has an idea...1999 Grand Am SC/T - 301HP, 365TQ - ARP Rod Bolts, ARP Oil Pan Bolts, ARP Head Studs, Mild Cam, 3500 Heads w/28696 Springs, Ported 3500 LIM & 3400 UIM, GT32R @ 12PSI, Rebuilt Trans, 42.5 Injectors, Racetronix Fuel Pump, TCE Adjustable FPR, SC/T Kit, SC/T Spoiler, Shaved Trunk, WOT-Tech Coil Overs, Solid Rear Laterals w/Poly Bushings, Control Arms w/Poly Bushings, Poly Engine & Trans Mounts, Front & Rear Strut Braces
Comment
-
you'll need a 2 or 3 jaw puller.
I have a gen2 gear stuck on a crank right now, no fun.
Comment
-
Originally posted by RedBird View Postis it odd/strange that on my last 2 motors that i could slide the crank sprocket on and off by hand?
Got Lope?
3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS
Comment
-
Comment
-
Dave's design is a very clever one. Here are some additional images of the Three Prong Tool suggested by him and Geoff as well in action and the Crank Sprocket Installation tool from Kent-Moore to get the new one back on. Accidentally pounding on the end of the crank can de-tune it, so a short length of galvanized pipe extension from AutoZone and the side of a large plastic mallet can be used to pound it back on until it destroys the impact end of the pipe and finally bottoms out for proper alignment will finish the job nicely. Like vengeance...this is a mechanical fix that is "Best Served Cold" as introducing concentrated heat on the assembly might cause the oil in the block to congeal and plug up your Oil Pump Screen or even compromise the strength of the metal parts being heated incidentally in that area. A swipe of Moly-D grease on the crank nose just in front of the small gear will allow it to slide off with the use of the tool and drop into your hand like an Oreo Cookie into a Glass of Milk.
Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 03-10-2010, 09:34 PM.
Comment
-
Bob, remember that Crankshaft socket you told me to buy? It ended up being extremely useful and we even used it to put the crank gear back on!
we used it as a spacer since the crank bolt fit through the square cut out for the socket wrench to go into. All we had to do was fit the socket on the end of the crank, and then tighten down the crank bolt until it went all the way!
93 Firebird 3.4
Pacesetter Headers, Flowmaster 80, Comp 1.6 RR,Cloyes 2x Set, P&P Heads & Intakes, Custom Cam, Holley FPR, Ram Air Intake, Posi Rear w/3.42's & Disk Brakes.
Cam and Heads by 60Inclusive.com
Comment
-
Originally posted by tkoforpresident View PostBob, remember that Crankshaft socket you told me to buy? It ended up being extremely useful and we even used it to put the crank gear back on!
we used it as a spacer since the crank bolt fit through the square cut out for the socket wrench to go into. All we had to do was fit the socket on the end of the crank, and then tighten down the crank bolt until it went all the way!
To Whom It May Concern...
This tool... (if it is identical to the one Max has)... has a small, metric threaded bolt that should be screwed in snugly inside the nose of the crankshaft and while holding the new, small cog gear aligned with the Woodruff Key...(and with plenty of Moly-D covering the larger bolts threads and mating surfaces between the hex bolt and the outer face of the roller bearing that presses on the outer facing of the gear)...You can then slowly (and almost effortlessly) tighten down until the cog bottoms out in the ogive curve of the crankshaft... a short length of galvanized pipe slightly larger than the outside diameter of the crankshaft must be used in between the cog gear and the inner race of the bearing after the small gear is initially pushed onto the nose of the crankshaft. This will properly align the small cog with the larger camshaft gear which should be installed with the chain after this part is completed. It sure "beats" giving any new parts a "beating" to get them installed. Oh...and this is also the prescribed tool to use to easily install the Harmonic Balancer, too... without the pipe section in between...of course...Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 03-17-2010, 11:56 AM.
Comment
-
Well my gear puller is too cheap and bent, so im going to exchange it for a stronger one tomorrow. spray some more pb blaster on it as well.1999 Grand Am SC/T - 301HP, 365TQ - ARP Rod Bolts, ARP Oil Pan Bolts, ARP Head Studs, Mild Cam, 3500 Heads w/28696 Springs, Ported 3500 LIM & 3400 UIM, GT32R @ 12PSI, Rebuilt Trans, 42.5 Injectors, Racetronix Fuel Pump, TCE Adjustable FPR, SC/T Kit, SC/T Spoiler, Shaved Trunk, WOT-Tech Coil Overs, Solid Rear Laterals w/Poly Bushings, Control Arms w/Poly Bushings, Poly Engine & Trans Mounts, Front & Rear Strut Braces
Comment
-
My contraption worked well after i took the grinder to it and narrowed it down a little.
too bad i found out later on that the crank is junk
Comment
-
Got old gear off and new gear put on.1999 Grand Am SC/T - 301HP, 365TQ - ARP Rod Bolts, ARP Oil Pan Bolts, ARP Head Studs, Mild Cam, 3500 Heads w/28696 Springs, Ported 3500 LIM & 3400 UIM, GT32R @ 12PSI, Rebuilt Trans, 42.5 Injectors, Racetronix Fuel Pump, TCE Adjustable FPR, SC/T Kit, SC/T Spoiler, Shaved Trunk, WOT-Tech Coil Overs, Solid Rear Laterals w/Poly Bushings, Control Arms w/Poly Bushings, Poly Engine & Trans Mounts, Front & Rear Strut Braces
Comment
Comment