stall on right turns

[robertisaar]

ECM. it only makes sense to start at the core.

[60dgrzbelow0]

On occasion...on some engines...a Bad Motor Mount will allow an engine to shift its position during a specific directional turn or when enough engine torque warps the engine position just enough to tug on an electrical harness and momentarily break the connection on a 'stressed' connector. It might be a long shot... but checking for this problem is very straightforward and may also give you an idea on where to look for any harness separations or broken/loose wiring. If sufficiently hard... bottoming out a car can also cause a motor to re-bound enough to tear, damage or loosen a motor mount (and in the F-Body Cars... destroy the transmission "bumper" mount, too)

[IsaacHayes]

From that thread I read, check on top of the fuel pump and the wiring going to it. One thread said it was a common problem.

[chronix2121]

im gonna do a thorough check in an hour and drop the fuel tank. hopefully its something simple. ill let ya know.

[pmaniac69]

that almost sounded like you had a plug wire shorting out, my 2.2 would do the same thing and my wires were junk and were grounding out on the motor

Just a thought, cause your plug wires can/do shift when you turn, might be another easy thing to check, fire the car up at night and wiggle with plug wires, see if it stutters or if you see pretty blue light

[chronix2121]

am i seeing if blue light comes from the spark plugs themselves?

[not_a_gtp]

Chances are, if the wires were bad, the car would run poorly under any acceleration. But if you suspect one has a rip and is leaking spark, start it when it's dark outside and look for blue sparks shooting out of the wires

[chronix2121]

well i took my car in to a shop just to see if they could give me an ideal and they claimed the car drove fine for them. i left it overnight and then agin this morning the car drove fine. as soon as i get it and drive down the road the car starts bogging down on me again. jack furrier's is so full of shit. drivability diagnostic my ass. glad i didnt have to pay them.

[chronix2121]

i keep getting the p0401 code and i replaced the egr but the old one had carbon buildup. i replaced my cat 2 years ago due to it being clogged. is it possible my egr pipe is plugged?

[60dgrzbelow0]

Big Time. They really should re-name the "EGR" to "CCDD" ...which translates to mean "Carbon Clogging Delivery Device"... LOL. The only cure is to remove the manifold and soak and "pipe" clean out the tube/channel feeding the exhaust gases back into the motor. Replacing just the EGR Valve means that you are only half done with the job...

[carbon]

It can happen that the oil pickup comes off the pump as it is just pressure fit in most applications... if that is the case you will loose oil pressure when you corner... just a thought. You said you hit a big pot hole before this started...

[60dgrzbelow0]

It can happen that the oil pickup comes off the pump as it is just pressure fit in most applications... if that is the case you will loose oil pressure when you corner... just a thought. You said you hit a big pot hole before this started...

This is a very real possibility...and believe it or not...easier to diagnose than you might think:

(1) Drain the Oil
(2) Take a "Dead-Blow" Hammer and rap gently...dead center on the very bottom of the Oil Pan...
(3) If you hear anything metallic clanking around inside the pan from the imparted re-bound energy of the hammer hits... then you have an Oil Pick Up Tube that came loose from the Oil Pump Flange and sank to the bottom of the engine like a depth-charged Submarine.
(4) If this is the problem...and you need to start the engine to move the vehicle at all before you complete the full repair hob...make sure you fill up the Oil Filter with Fresh Motor Oil to the brim for the two minutes it will take for it to soak into the filter material...and then top of the engine with Fresh Motor Oil...but don't over fill it. Without an Oil Pick Up Tube and with the presence of any air at all left in the Oil Filter...your Oil Pump might suddenly cavitate and go bone dry, becoming a lump of useless cast iron down there. If that happens and you run the engine... You'll be doing a rebuild to fix this problem.

If this proves out to be the case... avoid starting and running the engine. When you order a new Oil Pump and Oil Pan Gasket... Don't forget to order a New Oil Pump Pick Up Tube as well...they ordinarily do not come together as a set. And last but not least... watch this video on how to put that tube on to stay for keeps and not have any more problems:

http://www.melling.com/Info/TechTipVideos.aspx

If you decide to TIG/MIG Weld or Braze the Oil Pick-Up Tube to the lower Oil Pump Flange...it is recommended that you first disassemble the Oil Pump, remembering to mark/scratch a reference mark between the main Pump Gear and the Pump Idler Gear to allow for exact re-assembly afterward. Also it will be necessary to remove the Roll Pin, Oil Pressure Adjustment Spring and Oil Pressure Control Valve prior to performing any welding that might overheat these components and render them inoperative...especially the Spring...which can lose its temper with the introduction of high welding heat while it is still inside the Oil Pump Body. Prior to the final installation of the Oil Pump, it is wise to submerge it (after being cleaned up from the welding/brazing episode) into a container of Fresh Motor Oil mixed with some GM EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) and using the Oil Pump Drive Shaft... Turn the pump over by hand until all of the air is purged out of the inner cavities and properly aligned gears inside the box to prevent any possibility of air cavitation when the engine is being primed or turned over.