2.8L exhaust leak, causing sluggish accleration?

[SofaKingWeToddDid]

I have an idea, GET STARTED ALREADY

X2

[pmaniac69]

if you got all the tools, you don't need any money to rip the motor out, and if you've never done this before, I can almost guarantee that you will NOT have it done by that date

[2.8 Grand Prix]

What makes you say that? I may not have experience swaping motors, but I do have one thing..... TIME. Sure, I may not have all day, but days a week (tues., thurs., fri.) I can work on it all morning and part of the afternoon. On saturdays I can work on it all day.

[2.8 Grand Prix]

I have started the process. So it's not like I'm starting from scratch.

[pmaniac69]

I'm saying this because it took me exactly 29 days to change my 3.1 to another 3.1, and I have swapped an engine before, I would say about 2, BUT they were chevy 350s, and they are easy compared to these, than, it took me another 2-3 more weeks because the first motor I got was junk, so I ripped that back out

second time around, after everything was fresh in my head, I had the motor out in 2 hours

if you haven't done an engine before, its going to take some time, trust me

[pmaniac69]

oh, and both times with that motor, I worked on it 6 hours after working 9 hours, everyday

[2.8 Grand Prix]

I'm saying this because it took me exactly 29 days to change my 3.1 to another 3.1
if you haven't done an engine before, its going to take some time, trust me

I hope it will take less than a month to do it. In November, I will have my dad available to help me.

Another thing, Robertisaar emailed me a basic checklist for engine removal. It doesn't look that hard.
If I follow that list to the tee, making adaptions where needed, I don't see why I couldn't have it done in 2-3 weeks.

[SofaKingWeToddDid]

I have started the process. So it's not like I'm starting from scratch.

where exactly did you start?? if youre trying to put the engine in before you take it out of the other car youre gonna run into some problems...
stuffing two engines in your car might be an idea... you wouldnt be the first wbody to do it.

[pmaniac69]

you should be able to pull the motor out in about 2 days, its getting everything else all set that takes time

[2.8 Grand Prix]

When I say that I have started the process, I mean that I have done some minor disassembly of the engine compartment. I haven't pulled the dead 2.8 out yet, and I don't intend on putting in the 3100 until I get the 2.8 out. I just got my hours increased at my current (new) part-time job, so this will cut into my time available for the swap as well.

Another road-block: My Oldsmobile (daily driver) quit on me today, so I am now looking to purchase a replacement vehicle. So....., that means that I am going to be limited on funds for a while.

[SofaKingWeToddDid]

or fix the olds. lol it might be easier than you think!

[WrathOfSocrus]

Doing an engine swap like this you are going to have to learn a few tricks. Rock Auto is your friend. Even if they don't have the cheapest price or if you can't afford to wait for something to be shipped you can still find part numbers and the vehicle interchange for the parts they list. If I remember correctly you have a 2000 Malibu engine and it says for the A/C compressor bypass pulley you will need DORMAN Part # 34217. Many of the parts they carry have a picture so you can compare to the parts you have or need. If you click on the part number it shows what vehicles the part will fit.

Stopping and starting a lot will confuse you so if at all possible I would try and hit it hard and long on a day off when you remove the engine. The last engine I removed I went out the night before and labeled all of the wires with masking tape. Find a connector, put a piece of tape on either side with matching identifying numbers (or letters if you prefer) and write down the names of the parts they go to if you know them. The important part is getting the wires labeled with numbers but when swapping out dislike engine parts it can help to know what the part type was in case you have any problems with wire length or connector differences.

When it comes time to remove bolts it is extremely handy to use plastic bags (sandwich bags) and some paper or masking tape so you can label each bag. When there are bolts of varying sizes coming off of one part it helps to draw a diagram to show which bolt went where and drop that in the bag with the bolts. Also pay close attention to where wires are grounded. You want to get the same grounds put back into the same location to avoid issues with the sensor voltages being out of spec. A digital camera can also be useful for seeing how it comes apart since you probably wont be swapping the engines around all in the same day.

It looks like the new engine has the 'header' style rear exhaust manifold with the center outlet. I'm not 100% positive but it may actually be close enough to bolt to the stock downpipe. There is a 'donut' style gasket that looks like a bunch of compressed steel wire that would make it fit up as the old 2.8 manifold had that piece cast into the manifold. However I have only found the steel adapter that mounts the gasket to the manifold. Hopefully I will find out where to get them unless someone here knows about it and is kind enough to share.

Somehow I got amazingly lucky and all of my 2.8 manifold bolts came out easily. However working on a car 11 years younger I broke nearly half of the bolts lolz. If you can leave the manifolds on the new engine then I would definitely try that out. You may have to tilt the engine a bit to maneuver it in, assuming you are going in from above. Being a W body with plenty of room it would probably be easier that way. When I removed my 2.8 I had someone pump the engine hoist as I held the engine clear of any hang-ups. To be honest I spent more time cleaning all of the gunk out of my engine bay (found no trace of the rear main seal left in the 2.8, no wonder the #5 bearing spun. I'm glad I only paid $100 for the car ) than I did removing the old engine. The motor mount in the sub frame is probably destroyed and gunked up beyond belief so definitely clean that out if nothing else.

Getting the motor out is pretty easy. It is far more important to document where your bolts and wiring belong than it is to worry about how fast you move your ratchet. Anyone determined enough could get and engine out in a couple hours but to do it right would be more like doing a long overtime day at work. Make notations for every bolt and wire and try to take a few pictures every so often. The work spent there will pay dividends back to you when installing the new motor.

[pocket-rocket]

I've had awesome luck with pretty much all 60v6 exhaust studs/nuts. Everything else, not so much. Like Wrath said, digital cameras do help a buttload. Once in a while I will find a pic of something I did on a car a long time ago to help me get it back together right. Things like vacuum lines with colored stripes on Asian cars.

[pmaniac69]

when I changed my motor, I remembered where everything went

had a handful of nuts and bolts left over though

[pocket-rocket]

when I changed my motor, I remembered where everything went

had a handful of nuts and bolts left over though

Stage 1 weight reduction kit! In reality, anymore I don't label anything, and hardly bag nuts and bolts anymore, but vehicles find themselves together just fine. Heck, the last major thing I did (rebuilt a 2.2l for a 2k Sonoma) came to me already half disassembled. Nothing labeled, nothing bagged, half the parts in the bed and a coffee can full of nuts and bolts. The guy loves the truck he paid $800 for with a spun rod bearing on #1 (hence the rebuild).