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  • Cylinder head question.

    I am working on a 96 3100 and i need to pull the front head off should i get an OEM head gasket or will FelPro be ok? I dont the compression ratio to change from bank to bank.

    Also, should i get the head inspected? Its my first aluminum head. The car was NOT overheating b4. If yes, where should i take it in Chicago, IL.

    TIA

    P.S. i ordered new bolts already.

  • #2
    Ifound these guys.

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    • #3
      if the car never overheated then it's probably fine.. just make sure both mating surfaces are as clean as possible.

      i'd use the GM graphite headgaskets, IMO they're better then the Felpro ones.
      Past Builds;
      1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
      1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
      Current Project;
      1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Superdave View Post
        i'd use the GM graphite headgaskets, IMO they're better then the Felpro ones.
        I have a set of heads that used those gaskets and now the graphite is stuck to the heads. I even tried paint stripper to remove it and it didn't work. I'd rather not have to pay to have such low mileage heads machined flat.

        It seems to slowly come up with a cloth, but it's gonna take several hours at the rate it is going. Anyone have any ideas?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Superdave View Post
          if the car never overheated then it's probably fine.. just make sure both mating surfaces are as clean as possible.

          i'd use the GM graphite headgaskets, IMO they're better then the Felpro ones.
          Thanks superdave. I will try to get a GM gasket and compare. I will skip the machine shop then. Where can i find the torque specs?

          FYI - the FelPro LIM gaskets are metal and look sweet. The only porblem is that this engine has some bad valve stem seals and now i have to change them.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by WrathOfSocrus View Post
            I have a set of heads that used those gaskets and now the graphite is stuck to the heads. I even tried paint stripper to remove it and it didn't work. I'd rather not have to pay to have such low mileage heads machined flat.

            It seems to slowly come up with a cloth, but it's gonna take several hours at the rate it is going. Anyone have any ideas?
            My experience with graphite is that they can take some uneven surfaces. They are more forgiving than metal or plastic head gaskets. Also, a scotchbrite scuff pad helps to get the surfaces clean.

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            • #7
              wire wheel on a drill works wonders.. just don't let it dig too deep or you'll have sealing problems.


              check the "downloads and links" section on the left of the screen.. in there is PDF files of all the specs for the 3100 and other engines.
              Past Builds;
              1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
              1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
              Current Project;
              1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

              Comment


              • #8
                Why did you need to pull it off?
                Ben
                60DegreeV6.com
                WOT-Tech.com

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                • #9
                  I didn't. Back around my birthday I decided to buy a new toy in the form of a 3500 short block from zofo61. He kept the top end and I was curious as to how hard it would be to use the 3500 in a couple different 60*V6 cars that are in the family. When my mom's LIM finally gave way I decided to jump into the project and use the block I had on hand.

                  So I got a set of heads off of Ebay and both mating surfaces have graphite on them. I figured since I'm supposed to have .060 head gasket thickness that the residual graphite would alter that number.

                  I'm not using a wire wheel or even a scotch bright pad on these pieces. I cannot afford to repair or replace either one. I was hoping someone would know of a common cleaning agent or something to aid in removal. I guess I'll be spending the day polishing the graphite off.

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                  • #10
                    Oh well you are in for a world of hurt if you believe those ebay heads are flat. I don't trust any heads off ebay without going to the machine shop. I just bought a set in fact. Brand new heads aren't even prefect and some are downright bad.

                    I use 3M roloc bristle discs to clean up heads, but I have them milled afterwards. Scotchbrite isn't going to warp or scratch the aluminum so go for it. Its just graphite.
                    Ben
                    60DegreeV6.com
                    WOT-Tech.com

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                    • #11
                      Well I exhausted all of my money on parts to get this thing going. Supposedly the heads are from a flipped car, same as the bottom end. Guess I'll have to take my chances. I will use a straight edge and feeler gauge to check them out, although I'm not sure how great of a straight edge I have.

                      They were package amazingly well and appear alright. Guess I'll know whats wrong if I lose compression.

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                      • #12
                        Shop around and find a reputable machine shop. I had my heads cleaned, compression checked and milled for just $120. A valve job is just $100 more. You are taking a serious chance on this if you don't take it to a machine shop.

                        I just got my van up and running and it took just about all summer because I had to wait on funds several times. I even had to buy a beater so I would have some wheels. Yes! I know you want it now, but good things come to those who wait. Do the job right the first time and you will save yourself a lot of headache and money in the long run. BTW I would go with Fel-Pro all the way. I'm not real big on GM and from what I've seen of these engines they don't make or buy gaskets that are worth shit! Just my two cents.

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