Car won't start after LIM gasket job (2000 Malibu)

[SkortchGT]

Hi all,

I found this site and was wondering if anyone would be able to help. First off, I'm not an amateur mechanic by any means, however I don't have much experience with Chevy/pushrod engines. I have a twin turbo 3000gt I just put a brand new engine in (the works), I can work on that all day long lol.

Anyway, I bought a used V6 2000 Chevy Malibu with 57k on the clock (I also have a 4cyl 98 Malibu). After reading about the lower intake manifold problems on the V6's, I decided to do the job as preventive maintenance. I used the Felpro gasket set. Now, the car ran fine before I did the job.

After putting everything back together, I can't get the engine to start. It cranks just fine, however sounds like it's out of time, like the plug wires are on the wrong cylinders, but they're not (I double and triple checked unless there is something I am missing??) I believe I even heard it backfire through the intake.

All the harnesses are connected, nothing I can see is loose. The only thing I can think of is the pushrods are in the wrong positions/spots, however I was so careful putting everything back together I just can't see this being the problem, although I am not sure what to think.

Can anyone offer any advice or suggestions?

Thank you in advance for any help, it is very much appreciated!!

[bszopi]

Did you put on the plug wires by following the numbering on the lower intake manifold? If so, then they are backwards. Other than that, I would check to make sure all connectors are plugged in.

[SkortchGT]

Did you put on the plug wires by following the numbering on the lower intake manifold? If so, then they are backwards. Other than that, I would check to make sure all connectors are plugged in.

Hi Brad,
Thanks for the reply. When I had the manifold off, I do remember seeing the numbers however didn't take note since the service manual I have (Chilton) had the firing order in it.

However, the diagram you noted there is completely different then Chilton, that may be the problem. the Chilton diagram shows the following:

2 4 6

1 3 5
(front of car)

Looks like I may have the banks reversed. When I get home today, I'll re-route the wires according to the diagram you posted and see if that fixes the problem. I'll report back.

Thanks again for this info!

[SkortchGT]

Well I went home for lunch and switch the wires around to match the diagram. The car started right up, thanks for your help!!

Just two problems now though, it was spilling coolant out of the overflow tank after a few minutes of running, and it is running kind of bad, probably a vaccum leak somewhere.

[1meanz]

did you bleed the coolent system? these engines (newer 60v6's) have to be bleed or theyll over heat and spew coolent. my uncles done it for about 3 days befor we fully got the system bled. there should be a bleeder screw on the hard line, as well as near the tstat. try that and see if it helps

as far as the way its running. probably a vacc leak.

[SkortchGT]

did you bleed the coolent system? these engines (newer 60v6's) have to be bleed or theyll over heat and spew coolent. my uncles done it for about 3 days befor we fully got the system bled. there should be a bleeder screw on the hard line, as well as near the tstat. try that and see if it helps

as far as the way its running. probably a vacc leak.

Thanks for the info. I was also thinking the same thing about the coolant spill over, that the system needs to be bled out more. I thought I bled it pretty good, although I was also thinking it probably needs to be bled more. I didn't notice a bleed screw next to the t-stat housing, I'll look for that tonight when I get home and post back with results tomorrow. Thanks for your help!

[IsaacHayes]

Some cars have a return line from the thermostat housing instead of bleed screw. Those will self-bleed in that area, but you still need to bleed it on the screw on top of the water pump. You will need to let it heat up enough so that the thermostat opens up and keep watching it. I just wait until the radiator fan kicks on, then you know it's at temp, and then I rev the motor a bit to help push the coolant up and force the little bit of air trapped in that line out.

[SkortchGT]

Some cars have a return line from the thermostat housing instead of bleed screw. Those will self-bleed in that area, but you still need to bleed it on the screw on top of the water pump. You will need to let it heat up enough so that the thermostat opens up and keep watching it. I just wait until the radiator fan kicks on, then you know it's at temp, and then I rev the motor a bit to help push the coolant up and force the little bit of air trapped in that line out.

Yep, looks like I have a return line on the tstat housing instead of a bleed screw. I fixed the vaccum leaks last night, added some coolant, bled it some more, and let it idle for 30 min, then drove it around the block and up and down the street. Went WOT a few times, came back, let it idle for another 15 minutes. Didn't overheat or spew any coolant. Drained the oil, and it was clean, no milky color. Car wasn't burning any coolant or oil. Everything seems in good order now. I noticed the idle was a little rough at first and the check engine light was on, however then it idled normally and the CEL went off. Just have to do brakes and tranny fluid and filter and I'm all set.

Thanks everyone for your help, I really appreciate it!

[bszopi]

Glad to hear its up and running good. It nice to have someone fix a problem quickly. Some of these issues drag on and on, and there is only so much assistance we can offer over the internet, without being there ourselves. Not to harp on anyone, but some descriptions some people give just aren't good enough to pinpoint the actual issues.

[torq455]

haha Brad! you mean like this one? 04 GASE....after changing the stat (summer/winter stat change) in the fall, it sounded like i had water/air sloshing around in my heater core after sitting at stop light and getting going again. i bled 1/2 gallon out of the hard line and i could swear i'd still see little blips of air. i put the summer stat in and same things. hell, i've done several radiator drain and fills before all this and never had this happen at all. i have a 99 GAGT service manual that i read up on, but no luck. it only makes sense to me that a head gasket is just beginning to go. ideas guys, or have i done it all?

[Z26-T]

haha Brad! you mean like this one? 04 GASE....after changing the stat (summer/winter stat change) in the fall, it sounded like i had water/air sloshing around in my heater core after sitting at stop light and getting going again. i bled 1/2 gallon out of the hard line and i could swear i'd still see little blips of air. i put the summer stat in and same things. hell, i've done several radiator drain and fills before all this and never had this happen at all. i have a 99 GAGT service manual that i read up on, but no luck. it only makes sense to me that a head gasket is just beginning to go. ideas guys, or have i done it all?

Have you checked your hvac box for water...? The drains can clog up with crap...

[Crazy K]

I always drill a tiny hole in the T-stat, enough to allow air to pass and minimal coolant. I discovered long ago that the 3N00 sideways T-stats seems to love to catch air behind them. I even had one car that I thought had a headgasket gone bad, as everytime I ran the car it would pocket behind the T-stat, but it was a missing clamp from before I bought the car.


I usually drill a 1/16th or smaller hole, stopping right as it pierces and using a pushpin to make the final hole to size.

[torq455]

it's fine. i don't have the HVAC blower on. i only hear that sound after the car idles for a minute or two then i bring the rpm up some. i usually don't hear it when the engine is cold ~100 or less. i do here it before the stat opens. just got back from Rapid City IA, a 545 mile trip and averaged 33 MPG, so it's running ok so far, but i almost think that sound is worse after the trip. i'll try to see about that later tonight.