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Hey everyone, I have a '94 3100 from a Olds Cutlass and going into a Chevette. Here some the problems I'm having, first is the counter clockwise spun waterpump. Are there clockwise spun FWD waterpumps or do I just have to use a RWD cooling setup, i.e. different timing cover, waterpump and pulley, crank pulley, harmonic damper? I wanted to retain my stock serpentine crank pulley/damper because the crank sensor uses it. But what about the RWD crank pulley and balancer, how much thicker far as depth is it compared to the all-in-one crank pulley on the 3rd Gen 3100s? Thanks,
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Clockwise pumps are from the v-belt set-ups, and CCW is from serpintine setups.
As long as you use a serp belt system (including the W/P), then you should be kosher.
The FWD and RWD belt location vary slightly, you need to use the accys that match whent you are using.
So long as you can take care of the motor mounts, starter location, oil filter adapter, etc, the easiest would be to use the FWD 3100 engine in complete form including belts and accys.
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First off, the reason why I wanted to use this motor is b/c of the great flowing heads. But unknown to me that all of the accys drives, motor mount bosses, heads, starter location, and oil pan are all completely different compared to the RWD drive motors. Making a custom manifold, oil pan, and motor mounts is no problem for me b/c I love to TIG weld, but I don't like it that I don't have what I need. The problem is, since I wanna keep the serp crank pulley/damper, the only other pulleys that I would be running it w/p and alternator. So I don't know how I could spin the w/p if it's on the top right, alt on the left and crank pulley on bottom. I would have to run a tensionor where the A/C compressor use to be or something in order to keep my w/p.
Now does anyone know how much taller the RWD damper + crank pulley is compared to the all-in-one serp crank pulley on the 3100's?EricComment
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Yea the FWD setups are quite different. You could use a RWD block with the FWD heads and pistons. But then you loose the roller cam. On the RWD timing covers you can get a CW water pump and timing cover from an 86 S-10 but it will not fit the 3X00 motor. Or you could install the idler pulley or use power steering which will allow the stock pulley setup.1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
Because... I am, CANADIANComment
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So.. what's stopping you from using the whole FWD setup?
Here is the belt routing on mine (UIM is removed)
That's using the alternator and bracket from my 1991 3.1L CavalierComment
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Problem is, I don't have PS on my Chevette and I'm making a bracket to mount the alternator down low. So there's no way (that I know of) to be able to route the belt with running just alt, crank, and WP pulley. I thought about switching the tensioner to the right side and put the idler pulley on the left, the might work. Any ideas anyone?EricComment
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For most of us is one or all of the following:Originally posted by Superdave View Post
The pass side of the block only has 2 bosses for the mount,
The starter location interferes with the motor mount,
The oil filter adapter is pointing at the motor mount,
Oil pan has no notch for the front member of the frame.
Some of these have a remedy. The motor mount can be a custom unit, but until it was recently brought up to me that in some extreme applications (racing/offroading) the two bolts might not be enough on one side. The starter can be moved, but the block will be weakened near the bell housing - welding might be required to add material). The oil filter adapter has two options, one being a remote-mount and the other is modifying the adapter that came in the body style to work on the FWD block. For me, the oil pan isn't a big deal because the fbodies have a tubular k-member that has clearance for the pan - otherwise either the pan or the frame need to modified to accomidate.
I would have loved to drop a full 3500 in my car, but some of these hurdles made it easier to build a hybrid Gen1/Gen3. I have an idea to use the Gen3 lifters in my next build. It's a 3.1/3400 hybrid with a pair of to4e's and hopefully a full roller valvetrain, but it's not going to be a drop/bolt in deal. The block has to have a couple holes drilled/tapped for the retainers. Kind of like this...
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When i got my 3500 it didn't have a PS pump.. i guess the newer Malibus use an electric one..Originally posted by Wiz85 View Post
it had an idler in it's location, pictured here:
You can place idlers wherever you need them to get the belt routing right.. GM does the same thing, look under the hood of a L67 car, there are like 4 or 5 idlers.
Forced.. there are 4 mounting bosses on what would be the passenger side of my block and 3 iron ones/1 aluminium one in the pan on the drivers side of the block.. also the 2 that are on the front side of the block.
For my custom mount i used the 2 at the top on the drivers side (still thinking in a RWD APP), the one in the oil pan and the one facing the front of the block.. I'll see if i can find a good picture of my mount.Last edited by Superdave; 03-16-2008, 07:13 PM.Comment
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Yea I think that front cover setup would do the trick.1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
Because... I am, CANADIANComment
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Your garage is a mess!Originally posted by Superdave View Post
You are right, I meant the drivers' side (here's one of my past 3500 blocks)...
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lol, that was 2 years ago right after i moved into my new house.
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