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  • Sourcing iron head 3.4 parts

    Hi, I'm just putting out a feeler to try and find some good online parts sources for this block, any leads will help tons as I get the ball rolling on my built 3.4 PR.

    I'm looking for rotating assembly, valve train, intake and exhaust, the whole nine yards, any particularly good retailers out there?

  • #2
    I'm swapping the iron boat anchors out for some 3500 heads, but I have a spare set of ported iron heads here if you want them, PM me if interested.

    Other then that, here's a list of suppliers from a sticky on TGO...

    camshafts
    Edelbrock Performer-Plus Cam and Lifter Kits: EDL-3790 - summitracing.com
    COMP Cams High Energy Camshafts: CCA-16-233-4 - summitracing.com
    COMP Cams High Energy Camshafts: CCA-16-232-4 - summitracing.com
    COMP Cams High Energy Camshafts: CCA-16-115-4 - summitracing.com
    Edelbrock Performer-Plus Cam and Lifter Kits: EDL-3790 - summitracing.com
    Crane CompuCam Cam and Lifter Kits: CRN-254122 - summitracing.com
    Crane CompuCam Cam and Lifter Kits: CRN-254112 - summitracing.com
    Crane PowerMax Camshafts: CRN-253941 - summitracing.com
    Crane PowerMax Camshafts: CRN-253901 - summitracing.com

    Delta Cmashafts will also re-grind a lot of these for less $$$

    rocker arms
    COMP Cams Magnum Steel Roller Tip Rockers: CCA-1414-1 - summitracing.com

    pulleys
    Auto Specialties Underdrive Crankshaft Pulleys: ASP-541800 - summitracing.com

    Thermostats
    Hypertech Power Stats: HYP-1000 - summitracing.com
    Hypertech Power Stats: HYP-1018 - summitracing.com
    Summit Thermostats: SUM-360195 - summitracing.com
    Summit Thermostats: SUM-360180 - summitracing.com
    Summit Thermostats: SUM-360160 - summitracing.com
    Links:
    WOT-Tech.com
    FaceBook
    Instagram

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    • #3
      Everything you may want is out there but never in one place. What are you doing to it? Rebuilding or modifying?
      1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
      1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
      Because... I am, CANADIAN

      Comment


      • #4
        A lot of both actually, basically rebuilding a core with performance parts.

        Damn firebird, I wish, but the shipping would be insane on those heads to where I live. I've got heads that I will be using off of my Fiero anyway and porting those myself (if you're savvy to porting irons I'd be interested in shooting you some questions), but it'd be nice to have a spare pair.

        I'm looking for replacement pistons and rings at the moment, not sure weather I'll need them but it'll be good to have looked over my options just in case.

        As for cams and lifters, ARI engines offers their house cams for pretty good prices, I'm just not sure how they stack up to the brands Firebird mentioned like Edelbrock/COMP or the Delta regrinds, my stocker is beaten to death anyway, so I'll be buying new. Most of the engine will be new, aside from the crank, rods, and maybe pistons depending on the shape of my bores.

        Summit Racing seems to have pretty competitive pricing.

        Comment


        • #5
          Where do you live?

          Delta is cheap for cams, bought one from them for $100 including lifters (260 grind), but GM also has the 260 grind for just over $120 incl lifters.
          Links:
          WOT-Tech.com
          FaceBook
          Instagram

          Comment


          • #6
            I live in British Columbia in Canada, basically stuck as far SW as the province gets and just a touch above Seattle.

            $100 from Delta sounds great, but what kind of results can you expect from the new cam? Are the lifters aftermarket? Stockers? I'm assuming they'll keep up in a performance build...

            I'm not plugging for ARI but here is the link to their cam selection which states all the #s for their offerings, you know more than me for sure so judge for yourself, I'd be interested to hear your opinion on their specs.


            I'm basically trying to source an entire build... and keep it on the cheap... and get crazy HP, you know, essentially the impossible.

            Comment


            • #7
              step away from the iron heads.. and place them in the scrap metal bin. you'll never make any respectable power on them unless you boost the crap out of the engine.

              your options are endless, We can help you come up with a good combo depending on your power goals, budget and tuning abilities..
              Past Builds;
              1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
              1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
              Current Project;
              1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Superdave View Post
                step away from the iron heads.. and place them in the scrap metal bin. you'll never make any respectable power on them unless you boost the crap out of the engine.

                your options are endless, We can help you come up with a good combo depending on your power goals, budget and tuning abilities..
                K I know there are more options if I decide to leave the iron heads alone, but the fact of the matter is this: Jeremy has a '95 Camaro 3.4L short-block in the machine shop as he types this, Jeremy has no aluminum heads, block, or parts. Unless I can waltz into a wrecker, get a pair of rebuildable aluminum heads that can bolt onto my block with no fuss or extra cost that I havn't budgeted for, and rebuild them as cheaply as I can the iron heads, it's just not gonna work out.

                And 230WHP N/A has been achieved with iron heads, that seems ok to me, how about you? I'm not likely to see those #s but 180RWHP isn't unreasonable with my build, that's stock DOHC territory.

                So where do I go from here...

                Edit: The engine is destined for 1986 Pontiac Fiero so I have that ECU and harness to work with unless I buy a new one, I suck at tuning, and splicing scares me. This is highly relevant info.

                Edit edit: Also this is my very first car, engine rebuild, and engine swap, all rolled into one.
                Last edited by nfswift; 10-23-2007, 01:08 AM.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by nfswift View Post
                  K I know there are more options if I decide to leave the iron heads alone, but the fact of the matter is this: Jeremy has a '95 Camaro 3.4L short-block in the machine shop as he types this, Jeremy has no aluminum heads, block, or parts. Unless I can waltz into a wrecker, get a pair of rebuildable aluminum heads that can bolt onto my block with no fuss or extra cost that I havn't budgeted for, and rebuild them as cheaply as I can the iron heads, it's just not gonna work out.

                  And 230WHP N/A has been achieved with iron heads, that seems ok to me, how about you? I'm not likely to see those #s but 180RWHP isn't unreasonable with my build, that's stock DOHC territory.

                  So where do I go from here...

                  Edit: The engine is destined for 1986 Pontiac Fiero so I have that ECU and harness to work with unless I buy a new one, I suck at tuning, and splicing scares me. This is highly relevant info.

                  Edit edit: Also this is my very first car, engine rebuild, and engine swap, all rolled into one.
                  230 N/A WHP from an iron head engine? wow... did you ever see actual proof of that?


                  I don't wanna turn this into another "Gen3 FTW" thread. I just wanted to make you aware that the gen3 aluminium heads alone (3400 or better yet 3500 LX9 heads) will net you an easy 200 WHP with a mild cam.

                  Since this is your first project (and we've all been there) chaulk it up to the learning expierance. At least you are starting with a good base, Other stuff can be easially changed later on if you decide to go that route.
                  Past Builds;
                  1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                  1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                  Current Project;
                  1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Superdave View Post
                    230 N/A WHP from an iron head engine? wow... did you ever see actual proof of that?
                    Yes... actually... on two different engines no less. One EFI, and one carbed. 233RWHP on one and 230 odd on the other to be precise, you can ask the guy yourself... he's well known for that little feat over on pennocks Fiero forum.

                    Originally posted by Superdave View Post
                    I don't wanna turn this into another "Gen3 FTW" thread. I just wanted to make you aware that the gen3 aluminium heads alone (3400 or better yet 3500 LX9 heads) will net you an easy 200 WHP with a mild cam.

                    Since this is your first project (and we've all been there) chaulk it up to the learning expierance. At least you are starting with a good base, Other stuff can be easially changed later on if you decide to go that route.
                    And technically all I have is a 3.4L PR short block with a 2.8L in the car to use the heads from. If aluminum heads are somehow direct bolt-ons I havn't actually invested in any parts yet and could check the wreckers, but as far as I know (and when it comes to 3400s etc. I probably don't know) there are fundamental differences that would not allow me to use those heads on my block, that and I would have to make big harness mods as well as swapping a 3400 ECU or something, which all costs me more money. That and they'd probably try to charge me a kidney for a pair plus the harness/ECU.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      It's alot cheaper than you think.. but then you'd have to use a different engine harness, probably one from a Cavalier or Beretta. OBD1, run a 1227730 computer with the same chip that the Jbody guys are using.

                      the aluminium heads bolt right on to the 3.4 block, you'll have around 11:1 or a little higher compression which will help your N/A numbers jump a bit more...

                      Check Ebay and the buy/sell section here, Paul was selling some ported heads a few days ago... the store here also offers some great deals on parts. they may lighten your wallet but you get what you pay for..


                      check out this thread: http://www.60degreev6.com/showthread.php?t=38247
                      Past Builds;
                      1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                      1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                      Current Project;
                      1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Well, I'm very skeptical about how many good condition top ends I could realistically find around here for any reasonable price, and valvetrain parts, I'm expecting, will be much more expensive as well.

                        Plus I'm looking at a new ECU, harness, and tuning.

                        But honestly, how could one iron build make 200WHP (230 crank, I misread his PM) and that other build barely scratch 150WHP... Oreif only spent 1700 on his carbed build including the freaking block!! The iron 3.4s seem to get results all over the map, but I have a strong suspison that something was VERY WRONG with merlot's build!

                        So far I'm just having the block cleaned, and most likely bored 0.030" over, with some new slugs and a cam, it's not too late to go with alumium heads I suppose, I havn't spent any money above the block yet. However it'd be a freaking PITA, and would probably put me well over my $1000 budget (I have more, I'm just trying to budget conservatively).
                        Last edited by nfswift; 10-23-2007, 02:14 AM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Ok so now I'm already looking for a way out of using the iron heads, I've read what I needed to read and seen the numbers that I needed to see over on FTV6. It's not the way to go.

                          3400 it is, but now I need to do my homework AGAIN and find all the parts to make a 3.4/3400 hybrid.

                          I'm sold, I'm born again in shiney silver aluminum.

                          I'm assuming I should be looking for "big port" 1996+ roller rocker 3400 heads and components? But how can I tame the resulting super high CR and what's gonna need to be changed to get everything to bolt up and play nice???

                          I need to re-itemize my list of parts and sources quick...

                          Umm iron head goals out the window, I'd honestly like to make 1WHP/cubic inch, so 200WHP approximately, how feasible does that sound to you crowd? I'd be happy with 200+ crank honestly.

                          Please, enlighten me with the Aluminum knowledge!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            You have to use 3500 heads to get the 11.5:1 compression Dave was talking about. 3400 heads have smaller chambers.

                            Car-parts.com, I just talked to a place Friday, and they had a complete 3500 for less than $500 delivered (minus accys). Then all you would need is a TB and tuning ability. I'm getting MegaSquirt, actually it should be here any day.
                            Links:
                            WOT-Tech.com
                            FaceBook
                            Instagram

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                            • #15
                              Is there no way of going about using some '00 GA 3400 heads? Cause there's a member selling some on the forum here.

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