Originally posted by CNCguy
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Won't Burp!
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welp, i removed the disk at the bottom of the thermostat so there should always be water against the back of the thermo. then drilled a small hole through it for the air to escape and it's still having issues. Seems to burp alot better now but it still gets hot, bubbles out a half gallon or so, sucks in what's left in the tank.. i refill and it happens over and over...
i even drove it around for a while with the cap off, still no go.
i guess next is to install some Beretta 3100 heater core lines and hook the core up.. It's new, i might as well use it..
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Did your t-stat open and the top hose ever get hot? If the t-stat is opening, I would assume that you have other issues besides trapped air.
Also , it is best to leave your cap on since the boiling point of water is raised if you increase the pressure it is under. A mix of antifreeze/water under 15psi of pressure has a boiling point of 265 degrees. http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...08/ai_n9294683MinusOne - 3100 - 4T60E
'79 MGB - LZ9 - T5
http://www.tcemotorsports.com
http://www.britishcarconversions.com/lx9-conversion
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Originally posted by CNCguy View PostDid your t-stat open and the top hose ever get hot? If the t-stat is opening, I would assume that you have other issues besides trapped air.
Also , it is best to leave your cap on since the boiling point of water is raised if you increase the pressure it is under. A mix of antifreeze/water under 15psi of pressure has a boiling point of 265 degrees. http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...08/ai_n9294683
Now this is the strange part.. i boiled the thermostat on the stove and it never opened, it's the stock 3500 one so i'm assuming it's 212F or so.. but i noticed what sounded like a large click in the block after i'd shut the engine off.. it wasn't a normal heating/shrinking ting sound.. more like a valve opening. I've never been able to hear that before...
I'm planning on picking up another 180F thermostat today since i lost my old one. I have a chip programmed with the right on/off temps as well..
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Oh no that was the block splitting in half! Don't worry it just gives it more character. hehe Yeah 180 that sucker!sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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welp, i fabbed new hard lines out of pieces of scrap last night and routed it pretty nicely... it's looped to itself so no heater core..
It burped first try today, i'm not sure if it was the install of the new thermostat or the heater core lines but it's all good now!
still running a little warm (about 3/4 gage) but that's to be expected when running all water.. i'll drain a gallon out later this week and dump in some green stuff.
Thanks guys for all the suggestions!
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Originally posted by Superdave View Postyah, the top hose gets hot.
Now this is the strange part.. i boiled the thermostat on the stove and it never opened, it's the stock 3500 one so i'm assuming it's 212F or so.. but i noticed what sounded like a large click in the block after i'd shut the engine off.. it wasn't a normal heating/shrinking ting sound.. more like a valve opening. I've never been able to hear that before...
I'm planning on picking up another 180F thermostat today since i lost my old one. I have a chip programmed with the right on/off temps as well..
i thought 192 was highest stock temp. thermostat iirc.Planning on doing 3800 Supercharged swap soon in either my 4cyl or 6cyl.
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Connect the heater core or loop the heater lines, the coolant flow thorugh the heater core helps burp the system.
Other than that, I really don't understand why you have so much trouble, it takes me about 5 minutes, maybe up to 15 minutes to completly burp the system. *shrug*
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