me STE rebuild (56k DIAF)

[GutlessSupreme]

So without posting like 400 pictures, here's the project in ~30















worst actual unibody rust on the whole car (plenty of other parts are worse, like my fuel lines and full rear suspension)



my fuel lines...



that can't be safe, right?



































The 3.1 ate cam lobe 10 in November 2005. I've been slowly rebuilding it ever since. The motor should be ready to drop in by next weekend. I just need to take care of some engine bay stuff, as well as have a intermediate shaft bracket and turbo support bracket made. Lots of new parts all around on the car that I still have to put on, some stuff I still need to order, etc.

New tie rods, ball joints, sway bar bushings, fuel fill line, front calipers, etc etc. The springs are Intrax 1.8" drop ones but I'm going to hold off installing them until I can afford to swap the larger-brake fitted strut towers from my Cutlass and replace all bushings/bearings etc, and also figure out how I want to drop the rear. Rear will be getting the '94+ upgrade, probably before it's back on the road, but not until I can afford rebuilt calipers lol.

Sway bar got upgraded to 34mm, car has front and rear strut tower braces. The 3.1 got a .030 overbore during the rebuild and has a Crane H260 cam, LS6 (or LS2? I can't remember now) valve springs, 1.6 3100 stamped rockers, 29ish# Ford blue top injectors, mild self-done head/manifold port, Sealed Power cast hypereutectic pistons, stock rods, stock crank, M95HV, etc etc. I'm not going to push a whole crap load of boost, and am still using the stock T-25 for now so I'm not too worried about the bottom end.

Oh, and of course it's getting 282 treatment for my driving enjoyment.

[geldartb]

nice job car looks pretty good. im in the middle of a little build up myself.
whats the copper tube for extra oiling or something. oh yeah are those the 5 spoke grand prix rims, dont remember them like that i thought they were flate.

[GutlessSupreme]

Those are GP rims, yes. They're currently on the Cutlass and look great. I'm fairly sure the GP will be getting my crosslace wheels, but I haven't decided on a color for them yet (they're black w/ silver lip right now)

The tube is an aux cam oiler tube. that didn't end up being the final design, but pretty close. Lobes 9 and 10 seem to have a high failure rate on turbo cars for some reason (even though it's the same cam/etc as the N/A 3.1) so a few people have added extra oilers with good results. The stocker gave out at 154k, but I'm fairly sure I'll never have that problem again.

[geldartb]

im sure it will look hot with either set of rims on it. ive got some 16x8 crosslace i was thinking about tossing on the grand am.

i think they would look hot whit with the silver lip.

did you just tap the tube off of the oil pump. hot idea i like it.

[HayesPerformance]

Got any extra "STE Turbo" emblems? LOL

[HayesPerformance]

If you need STE parts I have some.

[HayesPerformance]

If you need STE parts I have some.


If you haven't put the engine in yet you should paint the higher corrosion areas with POR-15.
Its a black rust proof liquid paint that is flexable but is PERMENENT AND CAN NOT BE Removed by salt, chemicals, etc. You can hammer metal painted with it and it won't crack or come off. Paint it on inner fenders even and NO gravel chips it even! The ONLY way to take it off is with a grinder. Its amazing.

The reason I mentioned that is I have a STE and I'm very picky myself. and I used this and the Black hardens to a smooth powder coat looking finish and looks awsome forever.

Dave

[GutlessSupreme]

I used a product called "rust encapsulator" for the eastwood company, which is supposed to be comparable. I coated my subframe, control arms and portions of the engine bay with it before I ghetto painted it, though I will admit I've already had some problems with it (noticed some bubbling in the paint in some areas, for the second time). Things like that could be due to me not removing ALL of the original rust in the first place, but it is frustrating, considering it appeared that I had and that I spent a lot of time on it.

Main thing that pushed me away from POR-15 is that they wanted me to buy like 3 other chemicals for proper prep and would've cost me nearly 100 bucks total, IIRC. Rust Encapsulator required no other chemicals and was $39 shipped for a quart.

One thing I do think I should've used is one of those rust-disolving treatment chemicals. There's only so much you can get at through mechanical means, and I think that was my problem.

I was unhappy with the way the engine bay paint came out anyway, so I just just go ahead and sand blast it again and use POR-15 this time. Total pain in the ass, but I'd rather not have the rust start reappearing in 3 months time when everything's back IN the engine bay again. If I do it again I definetly need to remove the front fascia and headlights to get the front side of the core support though, there's still rust there that I haven't touched. uugh, more time before I get to drive the damn thing...

And I wish you weren't in Canada, otherwise I'd probably buy your whole interior from your parts car. I really want charcoal, I hate my light grey color.

[Rhedalert]

wow, looks damn good!

[HayesPerformance]

Ya, The door panels are the hardest to find!!!!!!!