3.1 LHO Owners

[jmgtp]

A quick question:

Do you have more than 1 bleeder for the coolant? I only see 1, by the waterpump. The car doesnt overheat at all and behaves entirely normal, but the heater core goes cold after having air moving over it for even a few seconds. So I was thinking I may have air in the system. This motor is in my beretta and 1 bleeder screw seems weird. My dohc in my W-body has 3 bleeders, 1 above the waterpump, 1 on the T-stat housing, and 1 on the line going to the heatercore. On my 3.1, the T-stat housing (the tube coming off of it is what I am refering to) has a dimple but it is not drilled and threaded for a bleeder. I have an extra T-stat housing from a 96 dohc engine that looks like it should bolt up (the arm off of it is just a lil bit longer but I think the rad hose should move enough to accomodate) it is equipped with a bleeder screw. Regardless.... I bled as much air as I could via the one bleeder screw above the water pump and have been driving the car for 2 weeks. The coolant level is full but the heat goes cold quickly. I know for a fact the core goes cold to the touch because I have it exposed and can feel it. The inlet line at first will burn your hand but after about 20 seconds of having the fan on you can bare to hold it, the return line is almost cool to the touch, the core is brand new. So... any ideas out there? Is there another bleeder screw? tho I imagine that any air would have purged on its own by now. What could be causing my heater core to have such poor circulation of coolant? I inspected and used lung power and have continuous flow from the piping, so there does not seem to be a restriction, my only guess is that coolant isnt being fed through it under pressure. Sorry this got long!

thanks!
-john

[Lyle's GTP]

Have you tried your thermostat sound to me like the coolant going in isn't hot enough. maybe your T-stat is stuck open. Because your heater core works like radiator. when you turn you fan on it cool the coolant down to fast. Try a new T-stat, it sound easy to change and are dirt cheap.

P.S. My 94' GTP only has one bleeder on the T-Stat line.

Lyle

[jmgtp]

T-stat is brand new, stock temp rating. Coolant gets plenty hot, it runs at normal operating temp. Everything seems to work as it should its just as if there is little flow through the heater core. With the core exposed and the fan on the inlet pipe of the heater core is burning hot but the outlet pipe is damn near cold. The core is new and there is no restriction in it (the old core worked just the same so it was a sunk cost). The return line is just a 1/2" pipe so I cant imagine a restriction in it.

[DEI37]

There's a bleeder on top of the t-stat housing as well.

[TeeJay3800]

This pic shows the location of both bleeder screws.

http://homepages.wmich.edu/~t0dykstr/bleeder.bmp

[jmgtp]

My car does not have a bleeder in the T-stat housing. Theres a dip in the housing but its not drilled/tapped for a bleeder. Anyways... this is an old thread. Problem was solved, the feed line to the heater core was clogged big time.

[Juglenaut]

Are you positive that the water pump impeller is spinning all the time??

[jmgtp]

Like I said: Problem SOLVED already, was severe blockage in the feed line.