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Think I bent a valve or two, compression test suggests

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  • Think I bent a valve or two, compression test suggests

    I'm currently working up my 3500 for install into my Fiero. I mentioned in an earlier thread about a month ago that the 3500 is an interference engine. Well, while rotating the crank after installing the pushrods, I felt a little binding point and thought there maybe piston to valve contact causing it. That was a panic conclusion since my cam was reground, I didn't stop long enough to think that maybe it was the combination of valves being opened causing a little more load at that point which is what it was.

    Before I arrived at that point however, I had feverishly removed the timing cover and unbolted the cam sprocket and turned the crank by hand forgetting about the interference and bumped a valve, I didn't think it was very hard but it was enough to spook me, so I put it back together successfully, forgetting to retorque the cam sprocket bolt which I did go back and do. I also realized that I should have done what I first thought to do, loosen the rockers to check for it. Problem was I had just sealed the covers and didn't want to which actually would have been easier because I ruined the new timing cover gasket where the v-cover seals were reusable.

    Anyway I just completed the compression test on an 05 3500 with 7K on it:

    1. 90 then 100
    2. 244
    3. 220
    4. 140 then 210 this cylinder has the same timing as #1 remember
    5. 188
    6. 225

    What I did wrong was spray WD40 in the cylinders before the test, I did so as a precautionary measure because I didn't know how long the engine had been sitting before I purchased it and didn't want to spin it with the starter in that state. There is a little fiz at the exh valve at #1 and 4, here is the kicker though, on both those cylinders a situation occured where the engine seemed to freewheel where at one point #1 didn't build pressure past 45 during the beginning of the test.

    Here's what I'm going to do, nothing at first, whatever the issue given the improvement seen in #4 I believe the engine actually running and the valves slamming down at 6000 or more rpm at 10 psi will pretty much correct it and if it doesn't, I'll slip a little lapping compound through the exhaust port and remove the spring and rocker and gently lap it using my drill. That method worked wonders for me on past applications not associated with this issue though. We'll see I'm also going to install stronger springs but hopefully I'll get the 3900 in time enough to not have to worry about it. But if not, well then you know what I'll end up doing.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    UPDATE

    Just performed a third test on #1 and 4. Number 4 is holding at 210, number 1 has now gone up to 160 and appears with continued testing it will continue to climb, perhaps the issue is the WD40 distribution, the time the engine has sat and varying degrees of valve pump up at the low cranking rpm on an engine that spent a few months upside down on the stand. On past engines I have built I noted that some rockers after proper adjustment could be lifted a quarter inch or so off the valve stem and some would not budge but on start up the engine ran fine, maybe that's the issue here and lifters at the number 1 cylinder are not fully pumped up. Just a thought. I also charged the battery some before the last test so that maybe a factor as well.

    I believe once it is running it will be fine.

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    • #3
      Glad to hear its improving... But I must say, that is a pretty engine!
      -Brad-
      89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
      sigpic
      Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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      • #4
        Originally posted by bszopi View Post
        Glad to hear its improving... But I must say, that is a pretty engine!
        I new someone would think so that's why I posted it.

        Piston #1 is now up to 170
        Last edited by Guest; 10-20-2006, 01:36 PM.

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        • #5
          you havnt ran the engine yet right? You wont get accurate compression readings until you break the engine in and the rings seat. It would take a lot of force to bend a valve I doubt you could have done it by turning it over by hand.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by ThirtyTwo View Post
            you havnt ran the engine yet right? You wont get accurate compression readings until you break the engine in and the rings seat. It would take a lot of force to bend a valve I doubt you could have done it by turning it over by hand.
            Under normal circumstances I agree but the nature of this matter is different, the thinner valve stems relative to those on the cast iron heads plus the angle on the valve kind of makes them more prone. I have never bent one before so I don't know how much force it takes but given that the engine is still practically new and the pressures are continuing to climb I tend to agree with your acessment.

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            • #7
              I agree also. There's no way you bent a valve turning it over with your hand. And, yeah, those pressures will continue to climb until the rings seal. I'd say you're good to go.
              Robby Whitesell
              2006 Pontiac G6 GT
              1985 Toyota Pickup DLX

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