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Rear end for J body

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  • #31
    Dont forget with the s-serise you have 3 widths to choose from too.

    The narrowest (is that a word?) 2WD axle, then a 4X4 axle and on top of that a ZR2 4X4 Axle. Each 4" wider than the previous.


    S-10's fuckin rock.
    1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
    1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
    Because... I am, CANADIAN

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    • #32
      intresting, i'll have to measure moms bravada when i see it again, its awd, and pretty much a blazer.
      If you aren't friends with a liar, you aren't friends with anyone.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by Doubt_Incarnate
        intresting, i'll have to measure moms bravada when i see it again, its awd, and pretty much a blazer.
        That's the same as the 4x4 width.

        Though I've only heard of two widths, being 2WD and 4x4/AWD, I haven't heard of this third width for the ZR2.

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        • #34
          Yup ZR2's are even wider. They have a 6 3/4 (maybe just 6") backspace on the wheels and they still stick out to the edge of the fender flares
          1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
          1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
          Because... I am, CANADIAN

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          • #35
            Originally posted by betterthanyou
            Yup ZR2's are even wider. They have a 6 3/4 (maybe just 6") backspace on the wheels and they still stick out to the edge of the fender flares
            :wtf: Link to more info.

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            • #36
              ahh staying v6 7.6 should work fine

              that one there held up fine to a turbo nos'd 3.8
              and you can get just about any final gear you want in a s-10 rear
              one thing I'd look into makeing a j body rwd,iirc is the steering rack may live in the area the rwd tranny wants to be

              v8 2nd gen fbodys should have 8.5 10 bolts?(and the early hi poones,like the 73 under lt1 should have 12bolts)
              1995 camaro 3.4 5-speed

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              • #37
                yeah, ive been snoopin under my hood, looks like the rack needs to go among other things. there is still alot of research and planning to do before i undertake this. probly have to move or change the gas tank, re route exhaust, cutout the spare tire well... i'd make a custom tubular steel cradle/subframe for the front that would incorporate the front suspension/steering and motor/tranny to stiffen everything up and line it up right. same thing out back, a subframe with a 4 link or ladder link type setup to make sure most of the torque action and stress goes to the frame and not the old unibody. then probly a pair of connectors to bring both halves together to make a multi peice frame under the car. i need a few books on chassis design and more welding practice.
                If you aren't friends with a liar, you aren't friends with anyone.

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                • #38
                  I was planning on using a P-body (Fiero) front suspension in my conversion, I even got the front frame rails all welded in too, just needed to make a couple mounting tabs for it.

                  I'm going to use that rack in my Typhony.

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                  • #39
                    looks like i'd want to pick up a whole s-10 to use as a donor, the spindles and axel, tranny, and spend the money to have the drive shaft professionaly shortened. does the fiero'rack hook up to the knuckle in front of the wheels or behind it? i don't think i can move my stock rack up and still turn left when i turn the wheel acordingly.
                    If you aren't friends with a liar, you aren't friends with anyone.

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                    • #40
                      Yes, the P-body is a front steer car.

                      No you can't take your J-body rack in put it on front of the wheels, you'd be turning the opposite way.

                      You might be able to use gen3 J-body spindles and put them on opposite sides, so that you can have the tie rod in front of the axle and use the P-body rack. DAMMNIT, why didn't I think about this before NOW?. This would have saved me so much time in the conversion. I'll have to look into this for the L-body I will be converting.

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                      • #41
                        maybe i can just swap my stock knuckles around. but then if i have a s-10 bolt pattern in the back and the j-body bolt pattern up front, it makes it hard to rotate tires.
                        If you aren't friends with a liar, you aren't friends with anyone.

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                        • #42
                          your stearing on the Jbodies is incorperated into the struts not the knuckles.. in order to change the steering rack possition you'd have to change the knuckles and that whole set up.. I was thinking about cutting off the whole front section of the s-10 and welding it under the jbody..

                          I also have had thoughts of stripping the Jbody unibody down and modifing it to mount on to a complete s-10 frame..

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                          • #43
                            i need to get my car out of storage and go it over real good and look at all the small and big things. i'd like to replace the drivetrain cradle with someting stronger and lighter and incorporates the the suspension and steering. that way i can mount the engine/tranny and the rack and suspension and lower the front of the car onto it and bolt it in place. i want to do someting like that in the rear as well.

                            searching the net i found out that the 4x4 s-10 have a 7.25" gearset up front with an independant suspension, i might try to find that in a yard and fabricate an independant type setup for the rear. i think the wheelbase is too short to have a solid axel in the back and keep the motor as far back as i want it to be. i might have a like a 9" drive shaft that way and i dont think that would do so good.
                            If you aren't friends with a liar, you aren't friends with anyone.

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by Quinky
                              your stearing on the Jbodies is incorperated into the struts not the knuckles.. in order to change the steering rack possition you'd have to change the knuckles and that whole set up.. I was thinking about cutting off the whole front section of the s-10 and welding it under the jbody..

                              I also have had thoughts of stripping the Jbody unibody down and modifing it to mount on to a complete s-10 frame..
                              That's why I suggested using some 3rd gen (J-body) knuckles.

                              The S-series front clip and frame for that matter doesn't fit well under a J-body, hell it doesn't even fit well under an S-series.

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                              • #45
                                Measurement from flange to flange on the Jbody rear end is 53.5 inches wide.
                                From the face of the hub/drum where the wheels bolt up to the otherside is 59 inches width. Just thought I'd toss that in there. I have mine sitting on the floor already and thought I'd measure it up incase you dont have acess to do so.
                                Colin
                                92 Sunbird GT, 3200 Hybrid 13.99@ 95.22 (2004)
                                90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 10.54 @ 129mph.

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