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SS clutch hose with -AN fittings for ends

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  • SS clutch hose with -AN fittings for ends

    I was forced to figure out how since the stock system would not bleed. This will work on the 284 hydraulics and probably the 282. I got pics of it around somewhere, will post when i find them.

    The reason for welding a male piece to the cylinder fitting (instead of a female and cutting out the F-F adapter) is cause when you weld it the threads will get residue on them and possibly be warped some. A female fitting is very hard to re-thread when you have such a short hole, the male fitting only takes a wire wheel.

    Materials:
    1 iron/steel M-M 1/8" NPT extension (looks like a pipe with threaded ends)
    2 F-F 1/8" NPT adapter
    2 1/8" NPT to -3AN adapters
    3' of SS brake line hose (the Russell brand is Powerflex I think), only really need just over half of it.
    2 -3AN -3AN hose ends

    -Take the hydrualics off the MC and slave, all that is holding them in is a pin that needs punched out. Cut the plastic hose off and discard.
    -Cut approximately 1/2" to 3/4" off the end of the 1/8" extension, when slipped onto the old plastic pipe nipple it should be as long as the nipple. Taper the end that you cut.
    -The fun part, weld the piece of extension onto the steel slave/MC fitting. I don't think that anything other then a torch will work that well. All the welding that needs to be done has to be on the inside, can't be surface welded because where you are welding has to fit inside the MC or slave cylinder. Not to mention that what you are welding is very small.
    -Teflon tape and put the F-F adapter and the -3AN piece on the fitting
    -Cut and assemble hose

  • #2
    Brian how were you attempting to bleed the clutch system that it did not work?

    I have had the hydrolics completely dry (284 trans) and have been able to bleed them quite easily by filling the system, then bottoming out the slave cylinder by hand, fill, repeat bottoming out. I did this until the system kept a consistent level of fluid. Then I just repeatedly bottomed the slave until no bubbles were visible in the resovoir upon bottoming the slave. I'm guessing you have the accumulator removed. If its not bleeding with the above method I would suspect an air leak or bad slave/master cylinders. I used airbrake hose (1/4" inside diameter IIRC) as a replacement line to go from the master cylinder directly to the slave. Its been in there for about 3 years now with no leaks or degredation. Flushing the system completely clean also created an improved 'pedal.'

    what was total cost for the lines you worked out?

    i cant imagine welding those pieces, the inside diameter is so tiny! must have been a tedious pain. Let us know how the clutch feel is.
    1991 Grand Prix GTP LX9swap/Getrag 284 --- SOLD =(
    1994 Corvette
    LT1/ZF6
    2006 Dodge Dakota 4x4
    3.7/42RLE

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    • #3
      Took 2 minutes to weld those things :P. You weld the outside of the pipe (1/8" NPT is about 1/4") but the weld must penetrate as it cannot protrude beyond the diameter of the pipe. Make sense?

      I dunno what the problem was but i had the entire system out and pumping the slave in and out for a good 45 minutes and the air would just not stop bubbeling out. I took out all the fluid and with the new line it took maybe 10 minutes.

      Cost, maybe $45. $40 of that is the -AN hardware. I was afraid that the air brake hose might melt on me as the turbo is mighty close... I read your site plenty of times beforehand and have some air brake hose as backup.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by brian89gp
        Took 2 minutes to weld those things :P. You weld the outside of the pipe (1/8" NPT is about 1/4") but the weld must penetrate as it cannot protrude beyond the diameter of the pipe. Make sense?

        I dunno what the problem was but i had the entire system out and pumping the slave in and out for a good 45 minutes and the air would just not stop bubbeling out. I took out all the fluid and with the new line it took maybe 10 minutes.

        Cost, maybe $45. $40 of that is the -AN hardware. I was afraid that the air brake hose might melt on me as the turbo is mighty close... I read your site plenty of times beforehand and have some air brake hose as backup.
        OOOO right turbo dohc and now 5 speed! w00t!

        i'm so jealous!!!

        i'm a lil behind on readin all the posts on the forum... have you driven this thing with boost yet? or still workin out all the bugs before you can rip?
        1991 Grand Prix GTP LX9swap/Getrag 284 --- SOLD =(
        1994 Corvette
        LT1/ZF6
        2006 Dodge Dakota 4x4
        3.7/42RLE

        Comment


        • #5


          you can see the 1/8" Male pipe welded to the fitting, the 1/8" Female-Female adapter, and the 1/8" to -3AN fitting on the end.

          I guess if someone really wanted me to weld those fittings on I could, I just don't have any master cylinder ones or a way to test them once welded.

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          • #6
            brian89gp, Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I wanted to know if you have any pics of the clutch slave/master setup as the pic you listed doesn't work anymore. I just blew the 1/4" OD air brake hose off of my master cylinder last night and I don't want to have to fix this again. Thanks
            \'89 Ciera Int. Coupe
            \'89 TGP

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            • #7


              Jegs has just started selling pre-made -3AN brake hose in various lengths for quite reasonably priced.

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              • #8
                Yeah, I saw that they had an 18" length for $20.99, but I just ordered everything seperately from Jegs today as I want to get this replaced for good this time. Thanks for the picture and it looks like a nice setup and I wouldn't have thought about welding the pipe on the fittings. I'll let you know how it turns out...not that there should be any problems.
                \'89 Ciera Int. Coupe
                \'89 TGP

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