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  • 700R4 positioning

    I'm building a little T-modified hot rod around an 89 Camaro 2.8 v6 and 700R4. I'm trying to position the engine so it sits level. I know that typically engines, and the attached transmissions, have been mounted with around a 5 degree tilt to the rear. Will mounting a 700R4 level cause problems? If so, what is the minimum mounting angle I can get by with?

  • #2
    about 3 degrees in relation to the ground, it matters more for driveline angle. You'll have to check all that once you know how the rear suspension is going to act under load.


    The engine/trans will be fine level if needed, it's the U joint angles that i'd worry about.
    Past Builds;
    1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
    1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
    Current Project;
    1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Superdave View Post
      about 3 degrees in relation to the ground, it matters more for driveline angle. You'll have to check all that once you know how the rear suspension is going to act under load.


      The engine/trans will be fine level if needed, it's the U joint angles that i'd worry about.
      Am I correct in understanding that as long as the pinion and transmission angles are the same, but not in line, that all should be OK?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Zandoz View Post
        I'm building a little T-modified hot rod around an 89 Camaro 2.8 v6 and 700R4. I'm trying to position the engine so it sits level. I know that typically engines, and the attached transmissions, have been mounted with around a 5 degree tilt to the rear. Will mounting a 700R4 level cause problems? If so, what is the minimum mounting angle I can get by with?


        the only issue I can see, would be oil drainage, alot of engines/transmissions are installed with a slope so oil flows towards the pickup.
        "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

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        • #5
          oiling should be ok with the 2.8 having a rear pickup in the pan, a little slope would help but isn't the pan already sloped a little?


          Here is a good article on driveline angles. I just had this battle with my Nova fighting some weird harmonics at 40 MPH and higher. http://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html..._harmonics.php
          Past Builds;
          1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
          1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
          Current Project;
          1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Superdave View Post
            oiling should be ok with the 2.8 having a rear pickup in the pan, a little slope would help but isn't the pan already sloped a little?


            Here is a good article on driveline angles. I just had this battle with my Nova fighting some weird harmonics at 40 MPH and higher. http://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html..._harmonics.php
            I was more thinking about the lifter valley and under the valve covers than the pan. probably still not a big deal though considering all the drains in place.
            "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

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            • #7
              The car I'm building is going to be very low. With the engine/transmission level, the low points of the pans would be about 6" off the ground. Tilted 3 degrees, with the transmission mount as the focal point, results in the transmission yoke below the differential toke...and bad universal/driveshaft angles. To fix that the whole engine/transmission package needs to be raised over 3"...putting the top of the distributor higher than the cowl, and cutting into already tight pedal room in the interior.

              My uneducated worry with setting the package level, is the angle of the transmission pan. With a three degree package angle, the transmission pan is still tilted low end to the front...with the package level, the angle looks like it would be about double...around 5-6 degrees.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Zandoz View Post
                My uneducated worry with setting the package level, is the angle of the transmission pan. With a three degree package angle, the transmission pan is still tilted low end to the front...with the package level, the angle looks like it would be about double...around 5-6 degrees.
                Cut the bottom out of the pan (disposition for later use) , add in triangular walls to change fluid pitch, & increase the back wall taper to support the grade difference.
                Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by 1988GTU View Post
                  Cut the bottom out of the pan (disposition for later use) , add in triangular walls to change fluid pitch, & increase the back wall taper to support the grade difference.
                  Since the fluid is going to seek it's own level, wouldn't the lower end be in an overfill state if enough fluid were used to cover the high end? <shrug>

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                  • #10
                    I figured an illustration might help...
                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      Is not manipulating the pickup tube and filter attaching points not an option?
                      Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 1988GTU View Post
                        Is not manipulating the pickup tube and filter attaching points not an option?

                        To be honest, I have no clue. I've never seen the inside of an automatic transmission.

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