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6 Puck verse full face clutch

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  • 6 Puck verse full face clutch

    I'm curious if anyone has a preference of 6 puck over full face stage 3 clutches. I'm concerned about how well puck clutches hold up to daily driving. I currently have a spec stage 2 that has been slipping on me the past couple months so thinking about going to a stage 3. So i'm curious to know how a puck holds up to the daily grind and how they feel.
    You may or may not know 10 times what i do.
    ASE Master certified. Just means I can take tests. GM ASEP Graduate.
    95' Z26, ported/cammed 3400/3500, OBD2, 282, T3T4. Boxes almost all empty..

  • #2
    For daily driving I think a full face will last longer and be more progressive. The last puck clutch I drove was like an on-off switch. It also wore out quick but it was an aggressive clutch designed for racing an not street driving.
    1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
    1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
    Because... I am, CANADIAN

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    • #3
      Originally posted by betterthanyou View Post
      For daily driving I think a full face will last longer and be more progressive. The last puck clutch I drove was like an on-off switch. It also wore out quick but it was an aggressive clutch designed for racing an not street driving.

      Perfect answer. The puck clutches are on/off, not easy to slip it a bit to roll slightly forward, such as getting into a parking spot etc. Once the pedal reaches a point, it grabs instantly and the car wants to lunge. I have a 4 puck clutch that needs new pads for the turbo car we are building, the race car has a 6 puck, both of which takes a bit to get used to.
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      • #4
        Depends on what you like. I have a 4 puc clutch with a 288* duration cam in my daily driven Fiero. I find it's a real "driver's car" now, and very fun to drive. Whatever you can tolerate. My 4 puc was built by a local supplier it must have 200 passes on it and 10,000 miles of driving on it, still fine.
        11.92 @ 122 MPH 3400 91 Cavalier Z24 Intercooled S/C. -totalled-
        10.56 @ 130 MPH 3900 LZ9 87 IROC Z28 Intercooled GT4088 Turbo

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        • #5
          My current stage 2 is already pretty on off. But for all I know it could be a puck clutch, since i didn't install it. If it's more on off that would be interesting.. I'm having a difficult time finding a stage 3 full face since I want to go with an ebay on this clutch, and am pretty sure a stage 2 won't last very long. When i'm putting this clutch in i'm going to install my ported 3500 heads and uppers along with the 65mm tb. (I may be daring enough put my cam in too if I can get a base tune from someone.) Hopefully soon after i'll finally get the turbo on.

          How much did your 4 puck cost, if you don't mind me asking.

          PS-don't be hating on an ebay clutch unless you've used one. I work at a shop and if it burns up after 5k it's not a problem since I have my own personal lifts to replace it.
          You may or may not know 10 times what i do.
          ASE Master certified. Just means I can take tests. GM ASEP Graduate.
          95' Z26, ported/cammed 3400/3500, OBD2, 282, T3T4. Boxes almost all empty..

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          • #6
            I thinkI payed around 500$ for my clutch, they increased the PP load by 300% and sold me a sprung 4 puc hub. These transmissions LOVE a lightweight clutch disk if you are high RPM shifting / racing
            11.92 @ 122 MPH 3400 91 Cavalier Z24 Intercooled S/C. -totalled-
            10.56 @ 130 MPH 3900 LZ9 87 IROC Z28 Intercooled GT4088 Turbo

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            • #7
              I had a sprung 6 puck "stage 3" in my Z24, never had a problem driving it on the street. Held up to lots of passes with a welded diff on slicks as well. Current owner put something like 10K more miles on it before he parked it while he's "indisposed".
              Past Builds;
              1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
              1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
              Current Project;
              1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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              • #8
                How does driving a fwd with a welded diff work..?

                Awesome, well, i think i'll try a 6 puck. If I don't like it or burn it up i'll have someone rebuild my full face spec.
                You may or may not know 10 times what i do.
                ASE Master certified. Just means I can take tests. GM ASEP Graduate.
                95' Z26, ported/cammed 3400/3500, OBD2, 282, T3T4. Boxes almost all empty..

                Comment


                • #9
                  Welded diff takes getting used to, but it's driveable. Impossible without pwr. steering for sure though.
                  11.92 @ 122 MPH 3400 91 Cavalier Z24 Intercooled S/C. -totalled-
                  10.56 @ 130 MPH 3900 LZ9 87 IROC Z28 Intercooled GT4088 Turbo

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                  • #10
                    If you have a 4WD truck with a LSD setup in the front end, put it in 4WD and try to turn on dry pavement. It's like that but 10x worse


                    power steering is a must, fun as all hell going in a straight line though. no torque steer.
                    Past Builds;
                    1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                    1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                    Current Project;
                    1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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                    • #11
                      Alot of your heavy and medium trucks run puck style clutches and they go 250k miles. The feel or grabby action you may get comes with the solid or very stiff spring rates that tend to be in car version of puck style clutches. But, since your going with a custom clutch anyway..... Have a disc made with stock clutch springs, go puck style, maybe a ceramic/organic pad, and up your pressure plate by 500 lbs. The puck style increases the pounds per inch of grab by reducing surface area. Should give you the performance you want yet maintain drive-ability.
                      sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
                      A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
                      Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
                      Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
                      PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.

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                      • #12
                        I have a 6 puck ceramic clutch in my Fiero from Clutchnet. I used an off the shelf 'heavty duty' pressure plate from Advance Auto (from my previous clutch install that didn't last long).

                        Prior to the 6 puck none of the clutches I tried let the 3.4L put max torque to the wheels. It was almost impossible to break the rear tires loose with a conventional clutch (with mild pressure plate). Simply swaping the disc out fixed that problem.

                        I really had no real issue with drivability of the 6 puck. It's a bit on-off but not too bad. If your clutch cylinders are bled correctly it almost drives like a normal clutch. Personally I'd never drive a normal clutch again after driving a 6 puck. I can't stand the long pedal travel for engagmeent. To me it feels more precise and predicable.

                        As for the grabby-ness of a puck clutch. It is a function of the number of pucks. It basically is related to the pressure applied to the friction faces. If you compare a conventional clutch the total area is large. Since pressure (PSI) is expressed as pounds/square inch the force at the surface of the disc is the pressure of the pressure plate * the surface area of the clutch disc.

                        A 6 puck has 6 * the area of the individual puck which is still less are than a full face clutch. This means for the given pressure applied by the pressure plate you will have less area. PSI * Area = force.

                        The force acting on the pucks is what develops the friction.

                        For a 4 puck you have even less area and a higher force to generate friction.

                        The downside to a puck clutch is wear life and driving characteristics. They take some getting used to and may not last as long. But will deliver more torque.

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                        • #13
                          I have the Spec 3 clutch (6 puck). It grabs like a champ and handles the turbo well with an lsd too.

                          To be quick on the clutch is tricky at first, but definitely streetable imho.
                          1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

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                          • #14
                            I have a full face spec 3+ in my fiero with a 3900 engine. It chattered a bit when new but is breaking in nicely. It's still fairly new so I only gave it a hard 1-2 shift once and it felt great. I would recommend it.

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                            • #15
                              Im very interested to see how my Bully 'stage 3' 6puck clutch disc works
                              sigpic
                              1994 Oldsmobile Cultass Supreme SL
                              3400/Getrag 284 5spd
                              1995 Chevy K1500 350c.i. 5spd Z71
                              350/NV3500 5spd
                              2014 Chevrolet Malibu LS

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