4T60e Performance Build

[3400-95-Modified]

Here's a big list of parts that you can replace. Obviously you won't need to replace everything listed.

http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php/45950-4t60e-Performance-Rebuild-kit.?p=421199&viewfull=1#post421199

I priced out everything on that list (a month or 2 ago) and it was about $730 not including upgraded clutch discs (still haven't been able to find those listed). If you'd like the excel sheet I can give it to you. But like timg stated, a manual swap can be cheaper if you can find all the parts locally. One of the biggest expenses is deciding on the clutch you want to run, and how much time you want to spend performing the swap. I've never heard anyone complain about having done a manual swap. But as you can hear from these other guys, if you build the auto trans it'll hold together. I decided on going manual because typically they're faster due to the gearing (if you can shift quickly). If you want to race a consistent bracket, a auto trans may be the choice for you.

Clutches: Purchased from http://www.level10.com (I recommend http://www.wittrans.com for others, MUCH cheaper)
84119EAS1 (wittrans number) Friction Module Stage 1 95-up (Raybestos Part #RCPS-32)

The upgraded clutches are listed right in that post.

You can get those or you can go to ALTO if you can find a distributor and get their Red Eagle which I'm assuming is similar.

I've priced a manual swap for my car and honestly it's cheper to keep f-ing with my auto to dial it in to where I like it.

For a regular strengthened trans rebuild the best things to get are this

Hard Parts: Purchased from http://www.bulkpart.com
A84570B 4th Clutch hub & Shaft (No bearing at clutch hub end/Sleeve race at splined end) 96-99
A84624 Shell, Reverse Reaction, Black Hardened

Clutches: Purchased from http://www.level10.com (I recommend http://www.wittrans.com for others, MUCH cheaper)
84119EAS1 (wittrans number) Friction Module Stage 1 95-up (Raybestos Part #RCPS-32)

Sprags: MUST REPLACE STOCK on 95-older http://www.bulkpart.com
A44654 1991-1995 1-2 Roller (springs rub inner race and burn out causing failure.)
A84652A 1-2 Roller 1996-up (Factory one typically lasts just fine.)

And start with a Delux rebuild kit so you get steels and all the bonded pistons and a bunch of other stuff.
Deluxe rebuild kit from Northern Auto Part Number #84008EA

Now this build list will cure many issues but not make the thing bullet proof... You may also want to get the Transgo Shift correction kit and some valve body valves if you notice anything is worn. But thats all decided upon inspection.

This is what I would do if someone were to ask me to build them a 4t60e to use on a mild engine. I had less than than this in my first build with my pink car and I put down a 13.99, and I also had less than this in my 95 and that got a 13.818 on the bottle.

[timg]

I would also consider a stronger input shaft and some of the other hard parts. I managed to shatter my original input shaft... The rebuilt 4T60E has held up pretty well though.

Tim

[3400-95-Modified]

I don't know if a "stronger" input shaft exists for the 60e... I still have an original 96 one in my car and never had any issues with it. I don't think its the same as the 65e but if it is then you could use the upgrade ones for that, but they are $449 roughly...

http://shop.tripleedgeperformance.com/4T65E-Upgraded-Input-Shaft-4T65E-300MIS.htm

Found it for $349

http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/p/61-Input-Shafts.aspx

I'm getting some different clutches for my 2nd gear setup this time around from Makco Transmission parts... I'm trying out the Alto 2nd gear high performance powerpack.

[robertisaar]

just want to say, i'm loving all of this information being poured into one thread, rather than having to search through about 50 to find the same information.,

[3400-95-Modified]

For anyone who wants to know I ordered my 2nd gear High Performance Power Pack and my 4th gear High Performance Power Pack from Auto Matic Kings Transmission Parts.

The two part numbers are
2nd 062756HP
4th 062758BHP (92-98 Years)

Here is a link to their HP catalog

http://www.altousa.com/images/uploads/Catalog-AltoHighPerformance.pdf

I didn't get anything for third because I already have the Raybestos Z-Pak which is rated for some obnoxious HP level, and I have yet to have any issues with my input clutch packs using the Raybestos Stage 1 Red clutches... So I'll keep using those till I see the need to switch, but Alto does offer input clutches if I want to swtich.

[robertisaar]

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/positraction/gm_front_wheel_drive_positraction.html

??

[3400-95-Modified]

That would be the engineered performance Limited Slip...

https://www.engineered.net

Pictures of the latest diff I got from him

[robertisaar]

that's a clutch type?

damn, some people have been reporting serious problems with the phantom grip units after roughly 1 year of use, and they look nearly identical in function.

[3400-95-Modified]

Look identical yes but they are not... Notice the bronze plates behind the spider gears... Thats what the phantom grip is lacking so when it does slip it burns those thin little steel plates into the diff housing and destroys the whole thing. The only flaw with this unit is if the center block is not hardened properly it will and can cause some scaring on the face of the spider gears, but you can rebuild the unit with new spiders when that finally does start to happen... It took me at least 3-4 years before I had to replace my spiders. This is my second full new diff. The first setup started with his stamped steel plates and after 2 years of use one cracked on me so I had that upgraded to the 4t65e style where the center plates are machined and the diff is installed with a spring clip rather than a snap on clip meaning you don't need access to the inside of the spider gears to remove the diff... and I ran that for at least 2 years and I just got it replaced with this fully new unit last year, new spiders, heavier plates, better preload and such.

Original 4t60e style LSD


Access to Clip to secure to intermediate shaft


Where it cracked after 15k miles of daily driven abuse


Upgraded 4t65e Style diff, no access to center since inner intermediate shaft has the same clip as an axle does.




And my last setup was posted above. Newer stronger center plates since I finally abused those spider gears enough so I had the whole thing rebuilt and freshened up.

[robertisaar]

neat, so avoid the phantom slip at all costs?

about how long are these units intended to last? the fact that you've gone through at least 2 of these kind of worries me since that doesn't relly bode well for a daily driver in need of more traction.

if i' reading this correctly, the evolution of them so far has been this:

"original 4T60E style":


"4T65E style":


"current style":

[Dave96z34]

In a few months im going to have him build a lsd for my 5 speed 284 getrag.

[3400-95-Modified]

To clarify it, I'm on my second unit... my first purchase was back in 04 IIRC... and I just got the whole unit rebuilt before last year to the last photo you posted. So I had the same spiders clutches and just different center plates up till now and that used to be in my daily driver.

The only failure was that stamped plate cracking so I switched it to the 4t65e style, 2-3 years like that and I then decided to get it fully rebuilt with all new hardware and hopefully stronger holding stuff since I'm hitting 12's now.

I asked him to strengthen up the center since when I took apart the 4t65e style I notice it looked like the spiders were touching very far out on the edge and not getting even pressure from the center plate and I think that was due to how much of that center plate was machined out... you can see in the newer ones its a much larger block of steel that should not deflect as much, so it should have more even pressure on the spider face.

[Z26-T]

The upgraded clutches are listed right in that post.

I've priced a manual swap for my car and honestly it's cheper to keep f-ing with my auto to dial it in to where I like it.

Clutches: Purchased from http://www.level10.com (I recommend http://www.wittrans.com for others, MUCH cheaper)
84119EAS1 (wittrans number) Friction Module Stage 1 95-up (Raybestos Part #RCPS-32)

My mistake. For some reason back in January I wasn't able to locate them with that part #. Now it works though..

Yes, it's much cheaper for you to keep messing with the trans you have now than going to a manual swap. But that's because you have so much invested into your current trans and LSD. Though, I believe, starting with a Manual will be cheaper in the long run. But when we manual guys break axles, shift cables, or other hard parts we have to scramble more to find replacement parts. For consistency and part availability I believe in the auto 100%. This is why I run a built TH350 in the Camaro and a Powerglide in the dragster. But to go fast for cheap, i like the manual.

[3400-95-Modified]

Even without what I have invested in my auto it's not cheap or easy to find manual parts and get them fitted for a Beretta. Hell a good clutch is 500 alone... My custom torque converter was half that

I like my 5-speed in my legacy though.