4t60e swap

[rcp4207]

Well, it rained here most of the day, so I headed out to the garage (again).
Repinned the transmission connector, moved 5 of the 7 wires around. If anyone ever needs to do this, all you need is a paperclip. You smash the tip of the paperclip with a hammer, to make a nice flat tip, like a small screw driver tip. Then file or grind the edges down a little, smash again if needed. You want the paperclip to fit into the edge of the female plug's receptacle terminals to release themfrom the front, and then pull the wires out the back of the connector.
I also replaced the starter (get in the zone).
Also took back wheels off to investigate the brakes (melted hubcap). The right rear e-brake linkage was hung up. sprayed with lots of WD-40, and exercised it with a hammer and pry bar. Lots of rust, looks like I'll be doing rear brake pads soon.
Drove the car around, everything seems to work now. Drive and overdrive accellerate smooth now. It's is amazing that I did not fry anything inside that tranny. The only problem I seem to still have is the car stalls when I come to complete stops. I had this problem before, ends up being loose vacuum lines on the intake. Will look at those again later.

I appreciate everyone's help, hopefully I'll be able to help someone else in return someday.

Bob

[Schmieder]

Car could also stall if the TCC remains locked up as you come to a stop.

Glad you fixed the issue, swapping trans #4 would be a PITA x 4, lol.

Good luck, fix that vacuum leak. You can find it by spraying starting fluid gently around the bay. When the RPM kicks up, you found the general area of the leak. It can cause 1 or more cylinders to run far too lean at WOT. Could be very bad if you melt a piston.

[Z26-T]

i recommend brake clean... little less harsh on the lungs than starting fluid.

[rcp4207]

Well, I'm back, and the car is still stalling at stops still. I'm pretty sure all my vacuum lines are good because if I through it in neutral, everything is fine. Reverse, stalls as well. And when it is about to stall, the motor and transmission seem to (lope) surge a little and then try to stall. If I pull the vacuum line off the modulator, the problem goes away. I have a good collection of these modulators, I tried swapping them several times. Could they all be bad? Is it OK to drive without it? Sure, the shifting is a little faster (harder), but will it ruin the transmission?

I also had to redo my wiring job on the transmission, I had to leave some wires off due to the new transmission being a four solenod type with a temp sensor. My car is wired for a three solenoid and two switch transmission. All I have connected is the power (brown / white wire to pin E) , the A solenoid (orange wire to pin A ), the B solenoid (light blue wire to pin B ), and the TCC solenoid (tan / black wire to pin D). Do I need to maybe grond the first gear switch wire (red)?

[robertisaar]

you know, i'm working with a member now that's having very similar stalling issues, but from the looks of it, we might be connecting the newer style PRNDL B circuit to the original p/n switch to correct the issue. PM me in a few days if i don't post an update for you, or would you like the wiring diagram to play with it yourself?

[rcp4207]

Robert,
I am starting to believe that the only fix for my problem is to get the original switches and solenoids from an earlier style 4T60E transmission, and install them in this later style transmission. Do you think that they would work? I'd rather try this before I start changing the transmission again ( fourth time ).
How come the wire prints don’t show all the wires going to the park neutral switch?

[robertisaar]

i have no idea if that's possible. i would think GM wouldn't change the mounting/etc in that area, but since it pretty much relies on the shift cable, it could be done, one way or another... if you really wanted to, you could install some microswitches that are triggered by the shifter position.

no idea why the printouts don't show them for you... i can grab the schematics for both early and late style if you would like.

[rcp4207]

Unless I am looking at the wrong wire prints:

The wiring inside the transmissions is different between the years '93 and '95. I have no way of controlling my TCC solenoid, which I believe is causing my car to stall, when in drive, with brake applied. The '93 has two wires going to the TCC solenoid ( separate from the rest of the wiring) one for power, and the other for PCM controlled ground. The '95 has the TCC wired in parallel with the other solenoids. My pcm is also looking for the grounds on 1st gear switch and 4th gear switch, which is not inside this '95 transmission.

If you have those schematics, that might help me. Thanks.

[robertisaar]

the connector pinout is a little different, but we've already went through that, correct?

the TCC control method changed between 93 and 95, but it will still function. in the earlier setup, the brake switch can open the circuit that the PCM grounds that would normally lock the TCC. when the brake is applied, power is cut, TCC unlocks. in the newer setup, the PCM uses a switch to monitor brake status, when the switch indicates that the brake is pressed, the PCM cuts power to the circuit, unlocking the TCC. different method to accomplish the same thing.

the 4th/1st switches are a problem though... unless you CAN swap the older style shifter position switches onto the newer trans, but no idea if that will work. those are simply to tell the ECM if the shifter has been moved into 1st or 4th. doesn't effect idle at all though.

the p/n switch is also an issue that would be resolved if the older style position switches can be swapped.

early:

http://i.imgur.com/Zu8Vp.png

http://i.imgur.com/1IsZ6.png

late:

http://i.imgur.com/FLxVx.png

http://i.imgur.com/kme0p.png

[rcp4207]

Robert, thanks for those schematics. Today, I removed the brown wire from the transmission connector (pin E) and put the purple wire in it's place (from brake switch). I drove it around and it seems to work, with brake peddle pressed, car does not stall, because the power to the trasmission is now off when brake pedal is pressed. My idle was a little off whenever I had the car in drive with brake peddle pressed, so I adjusted the vacuum modulator and it runs good now. My transmission only has the following hooked up and it all seems to work: purple wire on pin E (power to solenoids, but only with brakes not appllied), orange wire on pin A (solenoid A), light blue wire on pin B (solenoid B), tan / black wire on pin D (tcc solenoid ground through PCM). The other three wires (light blue for 4th gear switch, red for 1st gear switch, and brown for power) are all disconnected and taped up. I even drove down the highway at 70 mph, everthing shifts when it is supposed to. But now my transmission pan has a leak. I must have overtorqued the bolts when I did the filter. Looks like I'll be making a another mess under the car again soon.

[robertisaar]

well, at least it all sounds like it works relatively correct.