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Need transmission tuning advise, please

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  • #31
    Originally posted by torq455 View Post
    when torqued to spec, the bolts shouldn't back out. if you are going to use loc-tight, use the weaker of the bunch. you don't what to break off those tiny bolts when you want to take them out. i've never used loc-tight for tranny pan bolts, and have never had a problem because of that.
    Right, the pressures from the compressed gasket will keep the bolt threads snug and should lock in place. I just consider loc-tite as peace of mind insurance.

    I only use red loc-tite for head bolts, crank balancer bolt, cam bolts, ect. Generally I use red for large bolts and blue for small bolts as the size of the bolt is generally in relation to the strength needed.

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    • #32
      I've never used red loc-tite for anything yet. Only blue.

      Mine I had to keep tightening up. They would back off and be loose. i'd find ones almost all the way out after I noticed leaks. And I didn't want to tighten them any more for fear they would strip out the aluminum.. (3/8" ratchet can do that). Not sure what the deal was but finally after a while they stopped getting loose. Maybe the gasket was compressing/settling and then that would make them loose and then they'd vibrate back out.... ????
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      with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
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      • #33
        Only red I've used would be on the torque converter to flex plate bolts. I had those loosen up once... Man does it sound nasty.

        I don't use loc-tite if rebuilding procedure does not specify it because the bolts are torqued to a certain spec for a reason and if done right they should hold fine and never back out.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by 3400-95-Modified View Post
          Only red I've used would be on the torque converter to flex plate bolts. I had those loosen up once... Man does it sound nasty.


          I thought my engine was blowing up, lol. I used some loctite on some water pump bolts on a 4.3 Vortec in an Envoy. The first time around I didn't use anything on them. I mean, who loctites water pump bolts? I was tightening them up from what I thought was some idiot that did a water pump that didn't know how to tighten a bolt. Then a month later it started leaking again after the first time I tightened the good, so this time around it was loctite time.
          -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
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          • #35
            when torquing to spec, you can't substitute the sealer, or type of oil, etc., with something else. that will change the friction coefficient and cause the bolt either to be over/under torqued. for example, that's why you can't use 5W-30 on ARP bolts. they have their own lubricant just for their fasteners. i'm just referring to the critical fasteners, not things like water pump bolts.
            Andy

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            62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.

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