4t60e Performance Rebuild kit.

[geldartb]

didnt even notice that when i was looking before. it had that listed under the general clutches page which shows every available clutch and steels.

but the thing i posted above is under the friction and steel modules. ill email to double check and see if they can give me a break down of whats in the kit.

oh and it actually costs $234. i just threw a rough number up earlier.
i just got back with the trans i picked up. didnt pay alot since i was gonna go through it anyway.

i was only going by what others had discovered and the blue ones were what was recommended back in a post from 2002. http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showt...t=4t45+rebuild post 189 page 10 is where the numbers were listed. even back in 2002 level 10 was a shitty place.

i should start my own thread so i do kill this one.

[3400-95-Modified]

The blues are better than the stage 1's so yes I can understand why that was recommended. And yeah I read those posts about Level 10 and thats what made me leary after I bought the kit, and then was reinforced when I got it... Really I just used them as a middle man to get Raybestos parts, so at least I didnt send them a trans to do and got back who knows what.

[geldartb]

at least once i get this done i wont have to worry about it blowing up.
id hope you would never have to send your trans out to anyone.

i love how they use bulletproof alot. they manipulate people by using bulletproof 18 billion times.

you did get them to send you all the other parts too.

ill find out what other stuff needs updating and go from there.

[3400-95-Modified]

Yeah I only got the other parts because I said I was missinformed which they did really... they did not specify if it came with steels or not and just called it "full"

I got the rest of the parts today with all three bands... I did not expect all three, but what the hey, I already had one that was only 10 bux from TPUSA so I'll just hold on to it.

I'm hoping this build is a night and day difference from my last build.

Only person I would send my trans to would be Jeff at EP so he could do his 60e/65e hybrid. I do not know how to do that and I've been told some parts need to be modified to fit, so I'm not getting that deep.

[geldartb]

well that is misinformation. cant call something full and leave stuff out.
that would be like me selling a car saying its running not telling the person it doesnt have an engine.

you got spares now. it should be night and day. your building it like you did the other one right.

the 60/65 hyrbid sounds good. maybe next year.

[3400-95-Modified]

it should be night and day. your building it like you did the other one right.

Valve body wise yes, but clutch wise, No... I've never used these Stage 1's before so thats another upgrade over what I have done in the past.

[geldartb]

oh ok cool. i thought you used these clutches before.

what ones were using before.

[3400-95-Modified]

what ones were using before.

OE Tan ones... the same ones that were in this trans when I did the build in 08, which now show signs of heat on the input set... so yeah I think the reds should help quite a bit.

[60dgrzbelow0]

Mr. Pink...

Jonathan... is it true that those clutch disks must be pre-soaked for a good amount of time to sort of pre-condition them B4 installation and final assembly?...something about..."...bone dry plates will shred if they are not soaked in automatic transmission fluid prior to assembly..."...???

[3400-95-Modified]

Yes they need a pre-soak period. Which I will be starting this weekend.

Just think of it as jumping on the horse before she is ready to ride... don't work so well, if you know what I mean...

[TurboGTU]

Ha! Just remember, 1000hp on a lightweight in't jack compared to a 2600+lb car with too much torque on the daily grind. Get the z-pack if you can.

what burns up on the 60 and 60e is the 2nd clutch pack, 3rd pack. Forget 4th, thats just a econo gear. You will toast it with a stock 140hp 3.1l wonder.

The burn marks on your clutches look like they can't hold the power for either not having enough oil pressure or just overpowering it. Did you use a oil pressure guage before taking it apart. Sure does help alot. Using one after makes sure everything is in order after the rebuild. I made one out of a freon high pressure guage and some fittings and plastic 1/4 air hoses made for heavy duty truck air brakes.

Hard parts are the sprags. Just get new ones. ALso the reaction drum. get a new hardened drum (no japan please, get the sonnax if they have it still). Theise are always on load. Toss in a 4th hub too if the spines are nicked. Don't forget to check the oil pump shaft. Check the differential sun gear for pitting. Accumulator piston wear is also a concern. Check the pin and piston ...if you can wiggle the pin, piston and pin are worn out. ALways replace the bushings at the stator shaft, 2nd clutch drum. THise have the most wear. Don't forget not to install the 2nd drum bushings backwards. They have a step to help the teflon seals go in.

Find a new converter for a the latest 4t60e. Those are carbon fiber i belive. I think the 4t45 converter fits too and might have the e3 lining on the converter clutch (don't have books with me). Your converter problem sounds like your lining broke up. Had several 4L60es come to the shop like this. New converter always fix it along with valve body fixes,cross leaks. Glad your taking care of the valve body. People always over look it. Did you do the air test for cross leaks? Don't forget to check clearance on the packs. Too little and they will drag and burn up...especially if there is a cross leak. Over torqueing the valvebody and pump will also cause cross leaks as it wil warp. Investing in a in lbs torque wranch is a good invesment.

Good luck, keep us updated.

[3400-95-Modified]

Wow wait a minute here...

I've rebuilt this trans once before... All Trans Go fixes have been applied including Accumulator pin replacement along with tough seals... I also did all the bushings when I rebuilt this once before, and they are still fine to this day since there is only about 14k on this rebuild.

I've also already replaced the Reverse shell for the hardened one, and the 4th hub since the splines were worn on the original setup.

There are no Teflon seals that the second drum can take out... I think your thinking of the driven sprocket support bushing, that has a taper to help the fit of the Teflon seals on the input/forward drum.

Also what converter problem do you speak of? I never stated any issue. Unless your talking to WillyMan... He's been over my house and I've shown him what parts change through the years, and which ones are better.

Also there is no adjustment on the packs... I get a set of steels and a set of fibers... They are all of a set thickness so the only way I could not have enough space is to have a wrong part in there. Mine are all preloaded with a wavy disk getting installed first, that takes up the slack but also leaves some to allow freewheel.

The Z-pak is overkill for my application and I was told that by Raybestos themselves, so I'm not going to just listen to what performance shops say and what others who push the Z-pak. I had NO issues with third on this setup with stock clutches SO I can only assume I will not damage the Stage 1 kit. My only clutch issue was my input set, the rest looked good.

IIRC a 4t60e does not require in/lbs for torque... All parts are of a ft/lb value, and I've done those before, so it's not new to me.

And for the sprags, 1996+ low roller sprag is of a much better design and does not need to be replaced, I will take apart my input and third sprag once again to inspect them, but I think they will be fine and not need replacing as well. What I should have done is upgraded to the 65e ratchet sprags, but I'm cutting back on the money I'm spending and I've also reached my time limit and can not deal with another part delivery delay.

I've got MUCH more into this trans than I did before, and it lasted 2 years then, and probably would have gone longer if I had left it, so I think I will be perfectly fine for now and maybe I can buy those other parts in later years and then when I do another trans I'll put those in.

[TurboGTU]

Cool. Just remember that GM used stock packs on 1st and 2nd and went zpack on 3rd on its drag car. 3800sc guys fry thise on a daily car. Just saying.

I know, trans rebuilds get pricy quick.

[3400-95-Modified]

Yes But I'm using the strip version of all the packs right now, Rabyestos Stage 1 Reds, and I do not need to drop $60 on 10 clutch plates quite yet. 3800SC guys are frying STOCK clutch packs on a daily basis... I'm not doing stock ones, I'm just not going all out for the Z-pak.

I'm sure the trans will come apart next year for a quick inspection, and if I show signs of the 3rd pack wearing or burning up then I will eat my hat, and get the Z-pak

[RedZMonte]

Will it be too much to ask for a parts list of what your puttin in? My Trans just had epic FAIL and will know what the cause is early next week when my mechanic can get to it.. If it needs a rebuild i would definatly like to make it a little stronger.. it may be something we can put under the forum for future resourse

Thanks in advance...
Shane