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  • Question : Leaking axle seal

    Had both cv shafts replaced with new ones and new seals a few months ago and the drivers side started leaking a few weeks back. I had that seal replaced and it's still leaking. Probably even more than before. Is it likely the seal contact area on the cv shaft itself is no good? (nicked, grooved, out of round, etc)
    Last edited by Azrael; 01-13-2010, 12:47 AM.
    1995 Grand Am SE

  • #2
    It could be possible the seal was damaged on install, the must go in straight, also the axle shaft could have a groove worn into it from the old seal, and that would cause a leak. You would need to resleeve the axle or buy a remanufactured or new axle.
    Lorenzo
    '11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
    '92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"

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    • #3
      Turns out the last new seal was nicked on previous assembly. The brand new one fit nice and tight. Thank you stealerships for warrantying your repairs. I just hope the low amount of fluid didn't hurt anything too badly. 1st gear started to slip a little and still does...
      1995 Grand Am SE

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      • #4
        Ok transmission was slipping since they forgot to top up the fluid. Was short 1.5L...

        Another question though: Is it possible for something in the trans to cause the engine to run rough? When I got it back it's like I can feel all the individual powerstrokes (shakes the whole car) when before it ran smooth. The exhaust sounds different too. No longer like a 60V6, more like an old, carbed V8. Overall power seems down a little too. Happens in all gear ranges including Park and Neutral. Transmission shifts normally and TCC applies when it should.

        Or is this more likely engine related? It just seems odd that something during an axle seal replacement would cause this. I'll check the usual suspects tomorrow but I'm open to ideas.
        Last edited by Azrael; 01-13-2010, 12:44 AM.
        1995 Grand Am SE

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        • #5
          I would say it's safe to say it's engine related. The worst thing a trans could do would bog the engine down if it was dragging really bad, or keep the engine from spinning completely if it was seized inside.
          -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
          91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
          92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
          94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
          Originally posted by Jay Leno
          Tires are cheap clutches...

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          • #6
            Pull a plug wire when they were filling the trans?

            Got Lope?
            3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
            Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
            Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
            12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

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            • #7
              Recalibrated the WBO2, checked plug wire connections, used a screwdriver to listen to the front 3 injectors (was getting too dark to be able to find the back 3). No trans fluid coming through the modulator and vacuum line to the plenum. No cross-contamination of oil and coolant. Symptoms persist.

              With the trans in park/neutral, the only things still driven by the engine is the torque convertor, drive chain, and fluid pump right?

              Tomorrow I'll check the spark plugs themselves, go back to a regular NBO2, listen to the rest of the injectors and maybe check resistence, check FPR for leakage, kinks in the exhaust. Fuel filter is less than a year old but that's cheap enough to try.

              I should've asked for a fuel pressure tester for xmas. :P
              1995 Grand Am SE

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              • #8
                Solved. Turned out to be a bad ignition coil. 15-year old acdelco coil > cheapo summit racing rebranded coil.
                1995 Grand Am SE

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