Getrag 282 Removal ? (L body)

[jmgtp]

Getting ready to remove the 282 so I can change out the bad TO bearing. So far I've removed the axles, starter, x-over pipe and some other simple stuff. It looks really straight forward.

Question 1: Are the 5 bolts easily visible from the top the only ones holding the trans to the engine itself?

Question 2: When removing the trans after its all unbolted does it have to push away from the engine at all? Reason I ask is because there is sheet metal from the fender well that will be in the way, granted once I drop the frame rail the trans should dip enough to clear.

Question 3: Are the following the only electrical connections to the trans?: the VSS, the reverse switch, and a bunch of ground wires on the bolt nearest to the starter.

Question 4: I'm replacing the control arm bushings (despite the fact that they look perfectly fine) and I'm having a lot of difficulty getting the sway bar end links off the contol arm. It looks like its just a stud. All I am trying to do is remove the nut on the top so I can pop the sway bar off and remove the control arm - not remove the entire end link. The nuts are just very resistant to turning despite how well I cleaned the threads and made use of penetrating oil. Unfortunately, I sheared one of the end link studs (drivers side) and I see no way to get the end link out of the control arm. Anyone know how to do this and if replacement end link 'studs' are available?

I'm sure I will have more questions as I proceed.
Thanks!

[RidgeRunner]

1. Should be six bolts.
2. It does have to pull out far enough for the input shaft to slide out of the clutch disc.
3. I believe so.
4. The entire end links are replaceable, and not too expensive. Just cut them off or whatever, and take one to the parts store to make sure you get the right length. Autozone even has Energy Suspension ones.

[jmgtp]

Cool. Thanks for the response... just about to dig back in to it. I'm gonna have to find this elusive 6th bolt. I bet its just out of view since the shift linkages are still on the trans. I have one of the control arms out (the one w/ the broken end link) so I'll bring that to the store with the busted piece too. I hope once the frame rail supporting the trans is out that I can let it sag enough so the 'gearbox' part of the trans can slide out. Any idea on what I can expect the trans to weigh? I'm not a big guy and lying down underneath a car doesnt exactly put me at an advantage but if its less than 125 lbs or so I think I'll be okay, I may use a floor jack to assist just to be safe. Thanks!

[RidgeRunner]

Check out the graphic at the top of this page. It shows a drawing of the block, and you can see where the mounting bolts are... there's 3 on the front and 3 on the back. You may have to crawl underneath to find them all too.

My NVG-T550 (same or very similar trans as far as i can tell, just different clutch release) was right around 90lbs when I had it out, in fact I did just try to balance it on a floor jack when I pulled it.

As far as removing that part of the frame, I found it easiest to remove it, the driveaxle, control arm, and strut assembly all as one big "chunk", but if you've already got the control arm and driveaxles off, it wouldn't quite work that way.

Also, why the starter removal? Mine's never been off the car, to my knowlege.

[jmgtp]

Eh... I figured the starter would be in the way.

Anyways... I got all 6 bolts off, the linkages, all wires, removed the bolts holding the intermediate shaft mount. The trans comes off about 1/2-3/4 inch from the block and no more! I tried pulling, wiggling, gently prying - nothing works! I have the engine and transmission sagged down, the trans will clear the sheet metal and a/c lines if it just came loose. What am I missing?! Me and my dad tried to over an hour and the thing wont come more than 3/4" off the block. I think everything attatched to the trans and everything attatching it to the block is removed but the thing just wont pull off. Am I missing some secret?

EDIT: Prolly the clutch fork? If so... how do I pull up on it or in other ways release the bearing from the fork? By the slave cylinder hole there is a metal plug about the diameter of a half dollar. Is this it? Its flat on top with a little nipple but I dont see any way to grasp it. What do I do?

Thanks!

[jmgtp]

Now that I think of it... on the back side of the trans (as in the side that mounts to the block) in the rear near where the half shaft snaps in there is a black metal plate bolted to the case. It looks like thin sheet metal almost. I believe it is protecting the backside of the flywheel from exposure and hence this piece may be catching on the backside of the flywheel and that is why its not coming apart. Anyone know the piece I am talking about and if that is its purpose?

Thanks

[RidgeRunner]

You mean the one around the bottom of the bellhousing? Yeah, pull that thing off, it will catch on the flywheel as you suspect. I'd forgotten all about that thing being there... I had a Haynes manual on hand when I had mine apart, so basically I used that as a reference to see what all had to be done to remove the trans... but at the moment it's packed away somewhere...

[jmgtp]

I removed the plate and the trans slid right out.
Thanks for the info!

[RidgeRunner]

Yay! Have fun putting it back in.

[jmgtp]

I'm about to head back to the machine shop to pick up my flywheel and I have a few questions about putting this thing back together (I don't have a shop manual for this car so please forgive me )

1.) How many foot lbs torque to secure the flywheel bolts to the crank? Is any Loctite needed?
2.) How many ft lbs for the pressure plate to be secured to the flywheel? Loctite?
3.) I know I should put some dry lube in the end of the crank, but what about the input shaft? Any kind of lube used to keep the TO bearing sliding smoothly?
4.) How many ft lbs for the 6 bolts that secure the engine to the block?

I'm sure there will be more questions to come. I thank you for your patience and wisdom.

-John

EDIT: Nevermind. I just realized my haynes manual for my W covers the 3.1/282.