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Reseating a line into an accumulator in a 4T60-E

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  • Question : Reseating a line into an accumulator in a 4T60-E

    Hi all. (Newbie here)

    What is the proper method for reseating a metal line into the accumulator(?) in a 4T60-E? Any special techniques.. or do I just try to give the bugger a good shove back in?

    I dropped the transmission pan in my '96 Ciera SL (3100, 4T60-E) to do a drain, filter change and fill. (Only used two newspapers for sopping action when the pan slipped... ) I noticed that there was a loose line flopping around when I was removing the filter. I'm nearly positive I didn't bump it out. After a bit of research, I believe that it's one of the three lines that connect to the accumulator.

    I'm pretty sure that I need to properly reseat that line. Unfortunately, my repair manual only shows how to change the fluid and drop the transmission... nothing more. The other ends of the two lines that are still connected to the accumulator are attached to some other assembly. The line that that is disconnected seems to be attached to some sort of swivel and has a short rubber hose in the middle.

    Thanks

  • #2
    Pics

    I snapped a pic with my girl's cell and a shop light.


    (The line I believe disconnected is centered in the pic.)

    Comment


    • #3
      I would just carefully push it back in.
      -Brad-
      89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
      sigpic
      Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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      • #4
        I intended to to do it gently... but it continued to slip back out. I ended up pushing and twisting while lightly tapping on the angled portion of the line with a ratchet handle.

        Thanks for the response.

        Comment


        • #5
          it's a light press fit. i took pliers and knurled the ends to add more friction. but, yeah, just twist and push back in. there is a preventative cheap fix for that too.
          Andy

          sigpic

          fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
          fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70

          62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by torq455 View Post
            it's a light press fit. i took pliers and knurled the ends to add more friction. but, yeah, just twist and push back in. there is a preventative cheap fix for that too.
            X2...
            Lorenzo
            '11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
            '92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"

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            • #7
              I STRONGLY recommend the fix for this... Its more than "just a tube" its the lubrication system to the differential of your transmission, so having that disconnected will definitely shorten the life of your transmission. This is why most people will blow up a diff housing on a 4t60e... Peg leg burnouts with a disconnected lubrication system is asking for disaster.

              Got Lope?
              3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
              Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
              Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
              12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 3400-95-Modified View Post
                I STRONGLY recommend the fix for this... Its more than "just a tube" its the lubrication system to the differential of your transmission, so having that disconnected will definitely shorten the life of your transmission. This is why most people will blow up a diff housing on a 4t60e... Peg leg burnouts with a disconnected lubrication system is asking for disaster.
                If you dont want this to happen


                Then make sure that tube is in there.

                Granted that hapended because of my one wheeler pealers, having the lube tube hooked up would of made it last ALOT longer.

                Jon knows his 4t60's...
                95 Beretta- Lg8 Daily Driver
                94 Beretta z26- First ever 5-speed 3500 L body- In the works.

                Comment


                • #9
                  It costs more to ship the item to you... LOL


                  Or really you could make your own.



                  If you decide to make your own all you need to make is a clamp with a screw in the middle to clamp that tube to the solid fixed one just to its side... its a simple fix that can help so much.

                  Got Lope?
                  3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                  Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                  Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                  12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

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                  • #10
                    i really should do that....
                    Andy

                    sigpic

                    fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
                    fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70

                    62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Mine did the same thing. I just looped a hose clamp around it and the neighboring tube after I shoved it back in. The side pressure will be enough to keep it from rocketing back out.
                      '97 Chevy Lumina, '99 LA1, ported heads, manifolds, 2 1/2" exhaust, k&n filter, 180* stat, A/C delete, Ram air, 3600 FAFB converter, 4T60E shift kit, DHP Power Tuner, AEM UEGO, MegaSquirt II/Extra

                      1/8 mile 9.72@75 mph, 2.0 60 foot


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