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  • #16
    X2^^^ and the driveshaft shop should be able to take credit card anyways as its more of a legit business
    94 BerrettaZ26 3400,5 spd, aluminum flywheel, stg3+ spec clutch, poly mounts everywhere, strut and strut to rad braces, s&s headers, euro mirrors, and taillights, E36 headlights, blk widow spoiler, GTU rimz, intrax, KYB, OBD2 swap rear disk swap with ss lines and ss clutch line, addco rear bar

    07 Chrysler 300 Base, with C frt bumper blk halo headlights and foglights. Coming soon tinted taillights and 22". The Family ride

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    • #17
      but woudnt the axle be like an extention to the diff too? intermediat shaft or not there is still a round supported shaft. i do believe you guys it helps with torque steer but i just dont understand how that makes a difference lol, maybe im just thinking about it too much lol
      sigpic
      88 Beretta CL- 13.641@102.76mph (rwd LS1/t56 conversion in progress)

      77 Celica GT- 3400/3500 swap in progress (engine from the beretta)

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      • #18
        You want the inter. Shaft. Don't bother with the one length axle.

        See look, it's already causing you problems thinking about it!
        Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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        • #19
          haha yeah. it would be sooo much easier to put leave the shaft on. it makes pulling the passenger side axle a lot easier. but just the thought of gettin rid of all the "extra stuff" there and cleaning it up is appealing to me for some reason. i like understanding how stuff works tho
          sigpic
          88 Beretta CL- 13.641@102.76mph (rwd LS1/t56 conversion in progress)

          77 Celica GT- 3400/3500 swap in progress (engine from the beretta)

          Comment


          • #20
            that's the thing. the long axle isn't supported. it's direct form the diff to the wheel bearing. it's that middle support for the jackshaft that makes the difference.

            Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
            Cammed 3500 --> ???
            1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies

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            • #21
              i swear the factory ones have a support. i dont know about stock replacements, but i know jbp axles dont
              sigpic
              88 Beretta CL- 13.641@102.76mph (rwd LS1/t56 conversion in progress)

              77 Celica GT- 3400/3500 swap in progress (engine from the beretta)

              Comment


              • #22
                i know the factory ones have a thick rubber dampening ring, but that's it. my buddy has a 97 sunfire 2.2l, it has the long style axle, just liek the earlier year 4 cyls did(87ish-94), and that's all it's got.

                Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
                Cammed 3500 --> ???
                1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies

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                • #23
                  Didn't 282's on Fieros wear out diff bearings faster because they didn't have int. shafts? I would probably blame that on the "prying effect" of the longer axle shaft. It does make a lot of sense.
                  -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                  91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                  92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                  94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                  Originally posted by Jay Leno
                  Tires are cheap clutches...

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                  • #24
                    I JUST 3 days ago blew another differential out of the case on my car.

                    So that i think is transmission # 4.

                    Stock 200K axles.

                    The weak point is the transmission. (or at least it would seem that way to me)

                    I think mine break because I spin the diff at times due to one wheel peels / burnouts.

                    Next trans is going in with welded gears.
                    11.92 @ 122 MPH 3400 91 Cavalier Z24 Intercooled S/C. -totalled-
                    10.56 @ 130 MPH 3900 LZ9 87 IROC Z28 Intercooled GT4088 Turbo

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                    • #25
                      y not go with an lsd as welded gears arnt much better
                      94 BerrettaZ26 3400,5 spd, aluminum flywheel, stg3+ spec clutch, poly mounts everywhere, strut and strut to rad braces, s&s headers, euro mirrors, and taillights, E36 headlights, blk widow spoiler, GTU rimz, intrax, KYB, OBD2 swap rear disk swap with ss lines and ss clutch line, addco rear bar

                      07 Chrysler 300 Base, with C frt bumper blk halo headlights and foglights. Coming soon tinted taillights and 22". The Family ride

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Simple, cause when I blow the diff pin again in about 10 months, I wont be out the price of an LSD AND a trans, just a couple inches of MIG wire and a trans.

                        11.92 @ 122 MPH 3400 91 Cavalier Z24 Intercooled S/C. -totalled-
                        10.56 @ 130 MPH 3900 LZ9 87 IROC Z28 Intercooled GT4088 Turbo

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Eliminating one-wheel peels will help your diff pin live a lot longer too. I know my truck isn't anything close to any of our cars here, but I wouldn't go back to an open diff in that for anything. I don't do one-wheel peels in either of my cars and any time I have drained the trans fluid, I have yet to see any signs of any kind of internal transmission (including the diff) wear.
                          Last edited by pocket-rocket; 06-28-2009, 10:51 PM.
                          -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                          91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                          92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                          94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                          Originally posted by Jay Leno
                          Tires are cheap clutches...

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            stay away from JBP, they've ripped off way too many people.

                            Driveshaftshop or custom.

                            I've been looking at ways to modify the stock axles to be stronger, if/when i move forward on that i'll post up the info. But Damon is right, i have yet to break my GM stockers and they click around turns when cold. I'm going to push them very hard at the V6Z24 bash to try and get my 60' times down, we'll see if i can blow them up then.. hehe
                            Past Builds;
                            1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                            1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                            Current Project;
                            1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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                            • #29
                              that makes sense, i didnt think it was a rubber mount.

                              i thought our trannys were the strong point! weird

                              driveshaft shop emailed me back, they have some that will hold 400hp for 800 bucks and some that will hold 600hp for $1300. i think im gonna drop 800 for a set. even if there only as good as GM stockers, they will be new! and peace of mind of driving home after the track. in the meantime i may get my autozone replacement

                              thanks guys
                              sigpic
                              88 Beretta CL- 13.641@102.76mph (rwd LS1/t56 conversion in progress)

                              77 Celica GT- 3400/3500 swap in progress (engine from the beretta)

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Superdave View Post
                                stay away from JBP, they've ripped off way too many people.

                                Driveshaftshop or custom.

                                I've been looking at ways to modify the stock axles to be stronger, if/when i move forward on that i'll post up the info. But Damon is right, i have yet to break my GM stockers and they click around turns when cold. I'm going to push them very hard at the V6Z24 bash to try and get my 60' times down, we'll see if i can blow them up then.. hehe
                                Interesting you mentioned beefing up the stockers. Ive been thinking of that too.

                                First I need to see what is actually happening. From what Ive seen the cv joints are actually "splitting" from the torque and breaking apart.

                                This could be fixed by welding a re-enforcing ring over the outside of the cv joint so it cant break apart.


                                My end of the story is
                                120k gm axle on the drivers side, makes a little noise sometimes, but never a issue.
                                Been through 3 pep boys remans on the pass side. They suck.
                                Now I have a 125k gm axle there and no problems anymore.

                                I am always popping the clutch and chirping gears. I beat my car pretty badly.

                                Only thing Im noticing is that the axles are getting alot of slop in the joints, adding to the slop that I already have in the trans.
                                95 Beretta- Lg8 Daily Driver
                                94 Beretta z26- First ever 5-speed 3500 L body- In the works.

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