Need to rebuild my 4T60e....where do I get parts

[gpse3400]

PMed

[3400-95-Modified]

I get all my parts from bulkpart.com They have good quality parts... Borg Warner stuff is good.

I would look at your 1-2 roller clutch Page 54 of your book, and also pull the pin on the diff and inspect that for wear from the spider gears.

Was your diff lube tube loose from the accumulator housing? get the lube tube fix from Transmissionpartsusa.com... And any other Sonnax valves you wish to replace from the VB...

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/4T60EDifferential_Lube_Tube_Retainer_p/400-08453201k.htm

if you have NOT removed valves from the VB I strongly suggest you do this and start to inspect those, your problems may have started there with them binding up or being heavily worn... My TCC in one of my trannies was frozen solid in the bore... same with the tiny valve that is in the case for the vacuum modulator... That was all due to the diff failing and spreading aluminum through the trans since the pin was gouging my diff housing.

I don't know what 65e parts work exactly, but if you want, contact Jeff from EP and he may be able to help you out as far as what clutches you can use from 65e kits and so on...

I used to buy all my rebuild kits from Northern Auto Parts since they sold Transtar rebuild kits, and I liked them. They come with Raybestos clutches.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductDetail.cfm?ProductId=711

Make sure to pick the right year... 95+ is different than 94 and older.

I also recommend doing all the seals and o-rings that come with the transtar kit... It takes some innovation to get them done though without buying all the KD tools recommended, but I've done it 3 times now without them.

Chain

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Code=4T60Ehp

Make sure you figure out which one you have rigid only bends one direction, roller pin will bend in both directions...

[IsaacHayes]

While you got the motor out, put in a 3400 at least!! LOL Good luck!

Hey Jon, do you think a trans from a 99 lumina with 66k on it would be ok to just throw the transstar kit in and go? 66k is not a lot of miles considering it's less than what my car came with when I got it. Would that be ok to run without doing a full rebuild?

[3400-95-Modified]

I hope you mean just throw a TransGo kit at it and go... I wouldn't do any rebuild on that one. I bought a 99 Buick trans for MAJ a while back and did just the trans go upgrades, and looked everything through and left the clutches alone... IIRC I might have bought a banner seal kit with gaskets and done some of those but I didn't do everything.

My 74k 4t60e from Pinky had stripes on the 4th gear clutch still, so 66k will be fine from a new Lumina I'm sure. 4th gear is usually the one that burns up the quickest with city driving.

[IsaacHayes]

Yeah transgo shift correction kit. Sorry. You know what I meant. Just the shift kit and mess with the accumulators, do the diff lube fix and run the bish... Sweet!

BTW, my 4th is ok probably because I keep it in D not OD. I don't like it going in and out of 4th all the time in the city and my think was it was better for it to stay locked in 3rd than burn up 4th. I guess I was right! I only go to OD when over 40mph. 40 or under is D.

The lumina trans should work for my car if I swap the side cover right? It has lower FDR and higher stall I'm sure. Do I need a new TC if I don't use the one from the lumina? Mine is high mileage so probably not a good idea to re-use.

[torq455]

I've got some good pix in my tranny thread. I used http://www.tripleedgeperformance.com/ for most of what I needed. Trannyman on grandprixforums.net is great for advice and VERY helpful. Hit him up for any questions. Watch those torx bolts on the side cover. Torque the center two last to help prevent that cracking problem.

[AWeb80]

"valve body correction fix shift kit thing (fixes the whole slipping issue caused by worn valve body)"




where do I get that?

I need to know ASAP as I need to order parts today

[AWeb80]

Looks like I'll get this rebuild kit...

http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=2482

what about the trans-go shift kit thing.....

[torq455]

that kit has Raybestos clutches, they are more aggressive than Borg-Warner, but won't last nearly as long. TransGo kit is worth the money. it has revisions for your tranny. i'd email Dave: Dave@tripleedgeperformance.com . i know he's a 65E guy, but he's very good, and may be able to refer you to a place that deals with the 60E.

[AWeb80]

so...the transgo kit has the valve body thing and all for a rebuild?

I thought it was just a shift kit....

I R Confused

[torq455]

it's more of a shift correction kit in which it corrects the problems associated with the 60E--which are mostly in the valve body. the one for the 60E doesn't do much for shift firmness/quickness. if your valve body is worn out, then you'll need to rebuilt it with tools that are crazy expensive. it's best to get one that's already done.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRANS...ayphotohosting

if you look at the picture, it looks like there is a new boost valve, check balls, accumulator pin and seals, and other stuff. that should give you some idea. there are also other kits that should allow you to change out the TCC valve too.

[AWeb80]

how do I know if my stock one is worn out?

[AWeb80]

and will the trango kit take the place of some items is a full trans rebuild kit?

will it be easy to distinguish what is replaces?

FYI, I DO have the ATSM for the trans too.....

[torq455]

Trans Tec and Sonnax are good manufacturers of tranny rebuild parts. look for those names.

Shift improvement / correction kit To be installed during rebuild! Not a performance type kit Corrects: Light throttle converter shudder. Contains hardened pins and “Tuff” accumulator piston seals to reduce clutch failure due to pin and seal wear, 3rd clutch seal is self expanding. Includes PWM valve, lock-up regulator valve & bushings.

[torq455]

how do I know if my stock one is worn out?

if you had those common problems it may be worn out already, but it's best to take that to a pro to evaluate. if you know what's acceptable or not, you can look at the scouring on the valves and feel how much play there is with the valve in the valve body. it should slide easily and smoothly with out any hang ups. play should barely be detectable. i probably should have replaced my TCC valve when i was there. my TCC rate of lock starts, then slows down, then speeds back up making the engine rpm waver some. i just feel that it strokes about half way and hangs up, works past it, then all is ok.