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FWD Driveshaft Hanger Bearing Replacement

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  • FWD Driveshaft Hanger Bearing Replacement

    I figured I'd start a post about these since I haven't found any info anywhere about it.

    Before I put the motor and tranny back into my car, I figure I should get the hanger bearing that supports the intermediate shaft replaced.

    First I call a reputable tranny shop that I deal with at work to see if they can change it for me. I'm told it's non servicable and the shaft/bearing is changed as a unit.

    I trust these guys, so I call GM to see what the entire unit costs. They tell me it's sold in individual parts. I get them to fax me over a break down and I'll call them back. Sure enough, all the parts are listed seperately. I call back to see about availability and price, and I'm told all parts are discontinued except the actual shaft. At this point, all I'm really concerned with is the bearing. He gives me the part number and I proceed to interchange the number on our system at work. And go figure it crosses over to a number that I stock in my store for a whopping $14 CDN.

    I walk over to the shelf to take a look. It looks like it could be right, but I won't know until I get the old one apart, now that I know it comes apart.

    So tonight I get the shaft, clamp it in the vice, take out what screws are left (2 out of 3 have fallen out over the years), and the whole thing comes apart with next to no resistance. The bearing just slides off, like a RWD car's front axle bearing.

    Unfortunately, some of the outer "boot" protectors have also gone missing, but I think I have some extra lying around.

    So I clean up the old bearing to check for numbers. It's stamped with FAFNIR 206PP. Again, I proceed to interchange it, and come up with the same number I did before.

    Here's the bearing numbers I've got.
    GM #22534857
    Bearing that came off my car-Fafnir #206PP
    Timken/National #206FF
    Spicer #550735
    Chicago Rawhide/SKF part #6206-2RSJ

    I don't know if these bearings are the same for all GMs, but mine is from a 1991 Cavalier.

    I've posted pictures of the bearing and break down I got from GM.
    Attached Files
    Franz

    1990 Z24-NA 3.1L
    14.72 @ 92.24 MPH
    14.89 @ 94.92 MPH

    The boost is coming....

  • #2
    good stuff Franz! glad i don't have to worry about this. I have the 4-speed auto. hehe
    Andy

    sigpic

    fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
    fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70

    62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.

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    • #3
      Yeah nice work. I dont see how mine comes apart though. I would like to replace my bearing though.
      95 Beretta- Lg8 Daily Driver
      94 Beretta z26- First ever 5-speed 3500 L body- In the works.

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      • #4
        If it's like mine, take out the only screws you see, and things will start coming apart.
        I'm assuming of course the L and J bodies used the same hanger bearing design on the manual trans cars.
        Franz

        1990 Z24-NA 3.1L
        14.72 @ 92.24 MPH
        14.89 @ 94.92 MPH

        The boost is coming....

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        • #5
          Nice work.. yah, it comes out pretty easy. they are usually good for 100,000 miles or so.
          Past Builds;
          1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
          1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
          Current Project;
          1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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          • #6
            Hmm. Im using a j-body shaft. I had the screws out but I could'nt get anything to move..
            95 Beretta- Lg8 Daily Driver
            94 Beretta z26- First ever 5-speed 3500 L body- In the works.

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            • #7
              I was talking to one of the more experienced mechanics I deal with and asked if it should've come apart that easy. His answer was no.

              I put the new bearing on last night, and it took a small peice of exhaust pipe and my 200 lb body weight to push the new one back into place. It looks like the old one was definately worn, though it still spun beautifully

              You may need to use a bearing puller of some sort to remove it. Some auto parts places loan them out for free, depending on your location.
              Franz

              1990 Z24-NA 3.1L
              14.72 @ 92.24 MPH
              14.89 @ 94.92 MPH

              The boost is coming....

              Comment


              • #8
                I had rented a Master Slide Hammer set from Advance to do the bearings in the rear end of my truck. It had a slide hammer with various hook adapters, 2 and 3 jaw puller adapters, and one that had a pivot on the end that made a T shape, but would fold not quite flat. Those are the ones that you would probably use as I did for the outter bearings. Fold it, slip it in the center of the bearing, pull back after making it go back to the T shape, and slide the slide to hammer the bearing out of the tube. It was all in one kit, but I can't find it listed together but found two separate sets that make up the one set I used.

                Slide hammer set:


                Bearing puller set:


                If I remember correctly the label on the case read "Master Axle" service kit or something along those lines. The bearing adapters screwed on to the threads on the end of the slide hammer and the setup made removing my rear bearings a snap.
                -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                Originally posted by Jay Leno
                Tires are cheap clutches...

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