Clutch issues

[Crazy K]

that part looked familiar. yeah, your tip is broken off. I now know what that thingy is sitting in a mason jar on my shelf. LOL

[pocket-rocket]

when you put the slave on the tranny how hard is it to push it on all teh way by hand? I can push mine all the way, it takes some effort but it can be done pretty easily, is that a bad thing?

No, mine have always taken a good amount of effort to push in, and my hydraulics are fine.

[TurboGTU]

I'd put the slave cylinder on a vice and compress it. Bleed the master and line by hand outside the car having a buddy hold the reservoir, then install the master/line to the compressed slave and then unclamp it from the vice, it should self bleed. YOU have to put your hand on the slave rod till you get to the tranny and mount it so the rod won't come out, then after that mount the master. If you mount the master before the slave, the slaves rod/piston will shoot out.

[Mr_Efficiency]

why does the master being mounted so important? i dont get how taking it out of the car makes a diffrence having it mounted or not dosent make a diffrence would it?

I'm not saying your worng I'm just trying to understand how the stuff your saying about works.

So compress slave out of car (no line attached), bleed master line, reconnect slave to line, bolt slave to tranny, done?

[grandprixgtp_91]

Having it out on the bench with the master cylinder up in the air will help force air out properly, i had to do that with my getrag 284 hyraulic assembly took a few hours to get all the air out because i had to let it sit for awhile for the air to travel to the top, but you shouldnt have this problem if you never took the hydraulics apart. also my slave cylinder white plastic piece is broken too and its just steel at the end, and it works fine, and ive seen others like that too that worked fine. Also when you say that your clutch pedal should be higher than the brake pedal, on my grand am with a getrag 282 using a beretta hydraulic assembly and a cavalier pedal it sits lower than the brake pedal, with no problems. I have seen the TO bearing come off the shaft though during installation, just get under the car, have someone press the clutch and look up through the inspection hole at the bottom and see if the pressure plate is moving far enough away from the clutch disc. also are you using the proper clutch for that engine/tranny?

Jake

[Mr_Efficiency]

I did have the master apart so I know there is air in it but i cant get any bubbles out of it.
yes im 100% sure its the proper clutch and pressure plate. I'll try bleeding the master out of the car and see what I can do.

[TurboGTU]

The reason for compressing the slave cylinder and installing the bleed master is because when you buy a new slave cylinder, the instructions say to install it with the plastic that holds and compresses the slave together. It says NOT TO CUT THE PLASTIC OFF. Pumping the master onece the slave is installed Breakes the plastics tabs and self bleeds. Since you can't compress the slave while installing it (unless you find a new plastic piece all together), its better to bleed it on the bench then installing it on the car. The excess fluid will pour out of the resivoir. The Master cylinder will not fall apart like the slave.

Heres a pic of a slave cylinder with the plastic hold down on. It keeps it compressed. How you see it is how you install it WHEN new.

http://img.alibaba.com/photo/200586995/Clutch_cylinder.jpg

But even if you buy a new master cylinder and slave cylinder, you still have to bleed the master first. If you don't know how to bleed the master, just ask.

[TurboGTU]

I'll just tell you how to bleed the Clutch master cylinder:

Bleed it like the brake master cylinder. Either put the clutch hose back into the resiovoir(slave end), fill it with brake fluid and keep pumping it till no air comes out of the hose

http://images.superchevy.com/technical/chassis/brakes/0509sc_bench_02_s.jpg

Instead of a temperary line, use the original line to loop it into the resivoir.
OR (much better in my opinion)
Put your finger on the hose (slave end), pump it once to let air/fluid out and hold your finger on the line not to let air in the line when you decompress the cylinder. Keep doing it till just nothing but fluid pours out.

On both ways, onece bleed, attach the line to the slave without letting the line get any air into it. Its OK for the fluid to pour out of the line, just make sure you don't let the resivoir doesn't empty. It helps to have a helper.

Also You have to bleed it out of the car. The peddle bottoms out before the master cylinder bottoms out. So it will leave air.