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The W-body V6 Getrag 282

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  • The W-body V6 Getrag 282

    Ok, so I guess it's time we settle some things, since I'm bored and my 282 is sitting partially disassembled on my workbench.

    To the best of my knowledge, my 282 (RPO: MG2) came out of an '89 Cutlass International. I'm 75% sure that w-body bolt-in 282s came ONLY in w-bodies; meaning that no other 282 case has the mounting provisions on the bottom for our subframe-tranny mount. As with all other W 282s, the slave cylinder is externally mounted with an internal arm/fork setup. The trans has the old style (pre-'91) differential, which has a cast finish, a larger diameter pinion shaft (chrome in appearance) small spider gears and a 34 tooth gear for the Hall Effect electronic speedo sensor.

    The '91+ 282/T550 differential has a machined finish, larger spider gears, a smaller, but hardened, black pinion shaft that lacks the grooves the old ones do, and is much stronger. Thanks to Fierobsessed from fiero.nl for that info.

    The following numbers are tooth counts for each gear that I just went out and physically counted myself.

    Input shaft
    Input splines: 14
    1st drive gear: 14
    2nd drive gear: 20
    3rd drive gear: 24
    4th drive gear: 35
    5th drive gear: 43


    Output shaft
    FDR drive gear: 18
    1st driven gear: 49
    2nd driven gear: 41
    3rd driven gear: 33
    4th driven gear: 33
    5th driven gear: 31
    Reverse gear: 41

    Carrier
    FDR driven gear: 65
    VSS ring: 34

    Reverse Idler Shaft
    Reverse idler gear: 29

    The following numbers are from a 1987 "Muncie Getrag" 282 service guide from GM. I think Rodney Dickman had it hosted.

    1st: 3.50:1 - drive: 14, driven: 49
    2nd: 2.05:1 - drive: 20, driven: 41
    3rd: 1.38:1 - drive: 24, driven: 33
    4th: 0.94:1 - drive: 35, driven: 33
    5th: 0.72:1 - drive: 43, driven: 31
    R: 3.41:1 - drive: 12
    FDR: 3.61:1

    The only other listed options in this '87 guide was an alternate for 2nd: 2.19:1 - drive: 21, driven: 46, which went into the MG1 trans and the alternate VSS sensor rotor with 28 teeth. I wish I could find a newer guide to get some of the later gearing straightened out.

    But there you have it. W-body V6 Getrag 282 gearing is 3.50/2.05/1.38/0.94/0.72/3.61. This is the numerically lowest/longest gearing available for any 282 trans, so any hopes of swapping gears from other 282s to lower the revs a little are gone.

    I'm trying to get a full page together on all the Getrag/Muncie/NVG 282 information out there, but it could take some time. There's a lot of conflicting and unknown information out there.
    Last edited by GutlessSupreme; 04-02-2008, 01:56 PM. Reason: spelling lol
    -Tony | gtsdurango.net
    '04 Dakota Quad Cab SLT 4x4 - the gas guzzling DD.
    '90 Turbo Grand Prix STE - ehh.. I'm working on it.
    '92 Gutless Supreme SL - RIP 5.2010
    '90 Turbo Grand Prix - RIP 6.15.2005

  • #2
    Feel free to add the following information to your pile: http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25036

    And if you can verify it, let me know if there are any changes. The tranny sections of the site are the next in line to get overhauled/switched over to the new system, so starting off with accurate information would be ideal.
    -Brad-
    89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
    sigpic
    Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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    • #3
      Thanks for going out and getting the information and posting it here.

      Can you take pics of the case to show the differences?

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      • #4
        I'm trying to accumulate as many pics as I can that show the changes between cases/bellhousings/slaves and maybe shift arms. I'm taking a bunch of pics of my 282 as I go to add to it.

        If anyone else has pics of their 5TM40, and knows it's origin (year, carline, engine), feel free to send them to me and I will get a catalogue going with the trans' origin information and feature changes (and your name or username of course for credit).

        What I'm looking for in the pics is:
        shift arms - should only vary between carlines
        slave setups - external slave/internal arm, external slave/external arm, internal hydraulic throwout bearing
        car/frame mounting points - with and without mount, if possible
        bellhousing/case - direct shots from either side (i.e. directly @ input shaft and directly @ end cover)
        speed sensor setup - what it looks like externally and what the sensor looks like, if possible
        intermediate shaft provisions (jack shaft) - around passenger side differential output, 3 threaded holes for mounting the shaft (or not)

        and of course, any internal pics as well.
        -Tony | gtsdurango.net
        '04 Dakota Quad Cab SLT 4x4 - the gas guzzling DD.
        '90 Turbo Grand Prix STE - ehh.. I'm working on it.
        '92 Gutless Supreme SL - RIP 5.2010
        '90 Turbo Grand Prix - RIP 6.15.2005

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by bszopi View Post
          Feel free to add the following information to your pile: http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25036

          And if you can verify it, let me know if there are any changes. The tranny sections of the site are the next in line to get overhauled/switched over to the new system, so starting off with accurate information would be ideal.
          I have something for you guys. I got a very nice walkthrough on how to tear down a 282, much better than the one on dickman's site. I have to scan it in and make a pdf out of it. Ill deffinitly post it up here...
          95 Beretta- Lg8 Daily Driver
          94 Beretta z26- First ever 5-speed 3500 L body- In the works.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by GutlessSupreme View Post
            I'm trying to accumulate as many pics as I can that show the changes between cases/bellhousings/slaves and maybe shift arms. I'm taking a bunch of pics of my 282 as I go to add to it.

            If anyone else has pics of their 5TM40, and knows it's origin (year, carline, engine), feel free to send them to me and I will get a catalogue going with the trans' origin information and feature changes (and your name or username of course for credit).

            What I'm looking for in the pics is:
            shift arms - should only vary between carlines
            slave setups - external slave/internal arm, external slave/external arm, internal hydraulic throwout bearing
            car/frame mounting points - with and without mount, if possible
            bellhousing/case - direct shots from either side (i.e. directly @ input shaft and directly @ end cover)
            speed sensor setup - what it looks like externally and what the sensor looks like, if possible
            intermediate shaft provisions (jack shaft) - around passenger side differential output, 3 threaded holes for mounting the shaft (or not)

            and of course, any internal pics as well.
            I currently have my 94/93 nvg 550 split on my workbench. I can grab pics of anything u want. I can also get detailed pics of the slave setup.
            95 Beretta- Lg8 Daily Driver
            94 Beretta z26- First ever 5-speed 3500 L body- In the works.

            Comment


            • #7
              I have a 1993 3XTX Getrag from a W41 sitting in the garage, case is split and the diff is out.. is there a trick to removing the 2 main gear shafts?
              Past Builds;
              1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
              1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
              Current Project;
              1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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              • #8
                I can take pics of a 282 from an '89 Beretta. Would it be possible to post pics of the shift arms and shifter linkage on the shifter base itself, of the w-body unit?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Superdave View Post
                  I have a 1993 3XTX Getrag from a W41 sitting in the garage, case is split and the diff is out.. is there a trick to removing the 2 main gear shafts?
                  You need to knock the roll pin out of the shift selector, then remove the whole shift arm and associated crap.
                  Next remove the two large hollow bolts going through the back of the shafts. You need a special tool; I think Rodney Dickman sells it. Otherwise you can use a 12mm hex driver I think. One of the bolts turns clockwise, the one on the other shaft turns counterclockwise. I forget which is which. Breaking torque is something like 200 - 300 ft-lbs. They are loctited. I find the best way to do this is to shift the transmission into two gears at once so the shafts can't turn, then have a helper hold the case while you break the bolts loose.
                  Then the two gear clusters come out with the shift forks. You have to knock them out from the case. You'll want to replace the case bearings after doing this.
                  You need to alternate hitting one and the other so they don't bind. Keep turning them as you're knocking them out to make sure they aren't binding from one going too far. It helps to have another person helping you do this.
                  There is a special tool that has two dowel parts, one for each shaft, and a flat piece holding them together. You knock that to hit both shafts out evenly. It makes it a lot easier. You can probably make something similar with some bolts.
                  Get the rebuild guide....

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