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Let's talk about the 440-T4

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  • #16
    also to note, on the 440t4 the throttle cable controlls the shift points, by tightening it you will make it shift later, while losening it makes it shift early. pressure is controlled by the vacume modulator just like on the 4t60e. you can get an adjustable modulator and by screwing it is you will make it shift firmer, while losening it makes it softer.

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    • #17
      Bumping to ask about applications. Are all 440s the same, or are they only able to be used in the platform they come from? I'm looking into costs for mine, and putting in a used one is probably a bit cheaper than rebuilding the one I have. Is an H- or W-body unit the same? Will there be any difficulty bolting it into an A-body? What was the latest they were available before being supplanted by the electronic version?
      Kaiser George IX: 1996 Buick Century Special wagon. 213-SFI. 250k miles. Never gonna give you up, never gonna let you down. First documented LX9 swap in an A-body! Click here to read my build thread!

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      • #18
        Go with on from a W body for the sake for matching gear ratio. the H bodie ones seem to hold longer and I think its due to the type of springs used for the accumulator. one thing for sure I would put a new gasket on of the side pan, maybe while you are there replace the TCC soleniod with a GM one. and any switches that are in there. And in the bottom pan remove the acculumaltor cover and replace them with springs from a '91-'92 and get the inner springs from a the same year FWD Caddilac which would pretty much be any caddy at that time. That will firm it a bit. Oh yeah filter and gasket too.
        Lorenzo
        '11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
        '92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"

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