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'95 4t60e vs '96 4t60e

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  • #16
    If the transmission you posted the pictures of is the one you bought to replace your 1996 one, then you will also need to swap out the side pan. That one has the stamped steel one. Your car will have a cast one that has the transmission mount attached directly too it. Just get a new gasket (there are 2).

    You can just swap out the park neutral switch (the one on top with the wires coming out of it), and the side pan, and it will swap right out. The VSS is the same, but I don't know if it will have the same final drive ratio. You might also want to use the torque converter from your 1996 regal. I know a lot of people say they are all the same, but I could tell a difference when I replaced my 3100 torque converter with a Ciera one.
    Taylor
    1988 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3100 MPFI
    1990 Pontiac Grand Prix STE 3.1 MPFI
    1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme convertible
    1998 Lincoln Mark VIII
    "find something simple and complicate it"

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    • #17
      Yeah, but I think this is different. This one came out of a Buick Century, one year older than my Buick regal... but identical cars

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      • #18
        Please take and post a picture on the metal plate on the rear of the transmission... It will confirm what the transmission gears and everything are.

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        • #19
          4AFW I bet 3.1L W-body, 3.33 diff 30 tooth tone ring, 35/35 chain setup 2095 stall converter.

          And yes, if your side cover differs you will have to swap it.

          If the gasket is metal with rubber inlayed in it REUSE IT... that OEM side gasket is 80+ bux, the replacements are cheap cork crap tha will leak.

          Got Lope?
          3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
          Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
          Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
          12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

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          • #20
            Making progress...

            Yes I am 96buickregal's dad and I'm spending my vacation getting involved in this project. What a thrill. We've got the old transmission out and I'm in the process of swapping side pans. The 95 transmission has 6 studs around the axle seal (see attached photo). Common sense tells me to just remove them. Are there going to be any issues as far as having a nice seal when I put the cast pan on? Thanks for your input so far guys!
            Attached Files

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            • #21
              CRAPOLA!

              Now if I were in that situation i would do the correct thing and swap channel plates... But thats me, and I know what I'm doing as far as going that deep into a 4t60e...

              Channel plates differed depending on which side cover the trans had, stamped steel or cast aluminum. Now for you situation, I'm NOT sure of the best thing to do... You could remove those studs, but I can't guarantee that your tranny even has all the proper gear ranges on it.

              What does your shifter say? P N R D 3 2 1 or P N R OD D L

              If its the first one, then you may have a trans that wont allow you to select 1 for an option. You can test this by seeing how many notches are on the shifter shaft at the top of the case, you can count them with the cover off... thats not a big deal though...

              The NON stud style side cover is a o-ring style gasket, so there is a grove on the inside, now if that grove doesn't line up with where those studs are and will allow the o-ring to seal to the channel plate you should be ok with just removing them... if not you may need to drill those holes in the side cover and use the stud style gasket keeping those studs and pray it doesn't leak.

              Got Lope?
              3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
              Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
              Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
              12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

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              • #22
                I have messed with something in taht situation. I think a 1994 Cutty four door to be exact. The trans fried and then once we located a trans for it, I had to swap the side pan along with teh chain/sprockets/ and some otehr fun stuff. It was doable, but in the end not worth it for the car. It ended up popping a LIM (3100SFI) and the owner didnt bring it in until it was too late.

                I'd suggest rebuilding your old trans and be done with it.
                Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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                • #23
                  I have the option of selecting "1" on the shifter and both trannys have 7 notches and at least look to be similar. Also the orientation of the shift lever is the same in Park and 1st on both trannys. I measured the diameter of the spacing between the studs and it is about 4 11/16" . The diameter of the o-ring seal on the cast cover is just about 4 1/2" which means the o-ring would rest just inside the holes left by the studs (assuming there would be pressure there when the pan is bolted on). I also checked the distance of the axle seal flange from the case and it is the same on both trannys. I'm going to pull a stud and see what's behind it unless you have more bad news for me. Thanks for responding so quickly.

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                  • #24
                    Nothing should be behind it except for the 4th clutch outer pressure plate... thats what the channel plate acts as.

                    The o-ring should have enough pressure since well its that design on your old one and mine, It doesnt leak because being cast aluminum there is less flex than if it were stamped steel. As long as that o-ring lays inside of those holes then you should be fine.

                    And it sounds like your all good with the shift chit too... Just remember you use your electronics off the top of the trans so your plugs fit and all.

                    Got Lope?
                    3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                    Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                    Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                    12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

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                    • #25
                      Hmmm, well I've gone in, and with not so surgeon-like precision I lopped off all the studs using a handy-dandy Roto-zip tool with a diamond blade. I know what you're thinking "what a hack!" but they were'nt coming out any other way and at this point I don't have much to lose. I'll have to dress up the surface a little bit but I was wondering if a little Yamabond on the mating surface would help? Is there excessive pressure in this part of the tranny? Any other suggestions for making a good seal? I held the o-ring up to the surface and it touches all the studs on the inside edge. The good news is that the studs are now basically flush with the surface and are still plugging the holes. Time for a beer. I am on vacation after all.

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                      • #26
                        so did you get this thing back together yet?

                        Got Lope?
                        3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                        Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                        Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                        12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I put it back together but I'm just waiting for the weekend so I can get some help putting it back in. It seems like the Yamabond will do the trick though. I had to find another vehicle in the meantime since I've got another new driver in the house and I scored a beauty. It's an '87 LeSabre with 96K on it and no rust. My car dealer buddy let me have it for 5 Benjamins. It's got the 3800 before the Series 1 so hopefully no LIM problems. A little shuddering with the TCC but I can live with it. I tell the kids "just say no to OD". Will keep ya posted...

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                          • #28
                            OD is good, just that it should be kept off during city driving.
                            Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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                            • #29
                              That 87 is so good, it's the cleanest non-restored 80's car I've ever seen, then again I've only got about 17 1/2 years under my belt.

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                              • #30
                                Transmission is in and working flawlessly

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