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Bigger and/or better Master Cylinders?

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  • #16
    put on regular rotors, and some EBC pads, put in stainless flex lines to get rid of some of the compliance in the system, and you'll have much better brakes right there.

    I'm totally in agreeance with the, don't touch it, if you have no idea what you're doing. The bigger master isn't going to have the desired effect. It'll look pretty, but I don't see it helping you out any.
    26+6=1

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    • #17
      Originally posted by RebelGT
      put on regular rotors, and some EBC pads, put in stainless flex lines to get rid of some of the compliance in the system, and you'll have much better brakes right there.

      I'm totally in agreeance with the, don't touch it, if you have no idea what you're doing. The bigger master isn't going to have the desired effect. It'll look pretty, but I don't see it helping you out any.
      Agreed 100%
      SS lines will help to firm up your pedal, the stock flex hoses expand under pressure giving a mushy feeling.

      Substantial braking improvements require increased caliper piston area, pad area and rotor diameter.

      FWIW, a '95 Lumina MC is 7/8" bore.
      MinusOne - 3100 - 4T60E
      '79 MGB - LZ9 - T5
      http://www.tcemotorsports.com
      http://www.britishcarconversions.com/lx9-conversion

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      • #18
        My brakes are much, much better after what has been done to them.

        1. Put disk brakes on rear from 96? CS
        2. SS brake lines custom made ---about $80 <----most help!
        3. Also have slotted/drilled rotors, but I don't think that helps too much, just with cooling on long 'spirited' drives.

        difference is night and day.
        95 MC Z34 Black
        Running strong with new engine, transmission, brakes and suspension.

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        • #19
          I agree that the slotted rotors and more aggressive pad definitely help. I do need to change the hoses to braided SS. Maybe that will be the cars' next mod. Thanks, guys.
          \"NASCAR is an integral part of my life. A part of me died when Dale Earnhardt died.\"

          1997 Olds CS 4-door S/C - 183,527 miles
          1999 Chevrolet Lumina 3100 - Wife took it at 158,340 miles
          1989 Volvo 740GL Wagon 2.3 8v - 232,050 miles

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          • #20
            Yeah.. Well I still disagree. I Do belive the a changover from standard drums to discs and stainless steel brake lines will improve pedal feel and power. Grabby pads help as well but are usually a toss up of side effects....But I've owned enough W-cars to know what is flacid on the brake system and what isn't. Aside from the rear calipers on the earlier models that need to have it's sliders be made from stainless steel, the master is too small to give a good feel and high amount of power. And I'm not talking power assist. The Booster(s) is more than capable of supporting a bigger bore master, as our booster is shared with several cars and light trucks that use a larger master. Turbo Grand Prixs and any w-car with a powermaster... that is working, have the best brakes that I have ever felt. Lots of power and throw. You can literally hang your foot on the pedal and the car will start slowing down. And this is because It has a much bigger master cylinder. Calipers are the same as well as brake lines, pads and rotors. If you need to stop, half the pedal travel will lock up all the wheels thus kicking in the abs. Felt as strong as air brakes from a semi. Every w car and even my old '94 Z28, if I wanted to stop I had to stand on the pedal hard as I could to lock the wheels and it get the ABS running. Some people might not care about this but I like having extra power in reserve. Its like they made the master just big enough. If I could bore the compact master out I'm all for it.
            Last edited by gpse3400; 07-16-2006, 10:01 PM.
            Lorenzo
            '11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
            '92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"

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