Ok heres the deal. back about 2 years ago i bought the 96 knuckles and rotors from the junk yard. yes the rotors were warped but they were turned. so just recently i replace the rotors with slotted rotors. and the pedal pulsate was terriable. so i replaced the pads and calipers. still bad. so i called up the rotor guy and he told me he sent me out new rotors. got the new rotors cross drilled and slotted and still terriable. what is the problem
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BREAKS PULSATE WHAT CAUSES IT
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you really think so. is turning rotors all the same. as far as turning a plain rotor compaired to a slotted one
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Should be.
Did you replace all 4 rotors? If you only did the front than maybe your rears are warped.
But maybe your break-in on your rotors was not right. If you read that thing on proper break-in. It says that rotor warpage isn't warps at all. It is when bits of the pad material get imbeded in the rotor and are combined with overheating. Then you get super-hard material (carbides) that form on the rotor. Those are the bumps you feel in the pedal.
Did your brakes pulsate RIGHT after you changed them or was it soon after. Because, if that was the case, I say improper break-in.
I just did a complete 4 wheel, pad, caliper, SS line, slotted rotor job on my GTP. I used crapper rebuilt NAPA calipers and cheap-ass, slotted rotors from an ebay company.
I broke mine in as close to the recommended way as possible. I haven't had the slightest problem. It's been 3 months now, and all I do is city driving in stop and go traffic.
However, when I did my front brakes a couple years back, I had my rotors turned and rebuilt my calipers and used new pads. But, I had no clue about proper break-in. So, as soon as I finished, I dropped my car and went and tested them out. I had those bastards smokin' in the first 5 minutes.
But what low and behold, they warped out in a matter of weeks, maybe even days, I'm not sure. But it got progressivly worse as time went on. But that is how warpage works. Those carbides start out small, but get bigger and bigger, because you have to use that much more force to get your car to stop, generating more heat and more carbides.
Just some food for thought. Brakes are not THAT complex, brake boosters and ABS complicate things, but the general premis is still their.
I'll post that link about proper break-in when I find it.
Lyle
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no just the front. i had the rotors turned. its now been about 10 miles of breaking so should i now step on them kind of hard to brake them in. when i drove them i barley steped on them but for a long period of time getting to the red light. they only vibrate very very small when i press on them hot.
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Originally posted by d.o.h.cno just the front. i had the rotors turned. its now been about 10 miles of breaking so should i now step on them kind of hard to brake them in. when i drove them i barley steped on them but for a long period of time getting to the red light. they only vibrate very very small when i press on them hot.sigpic
1993 Cavalier Z24, 3.1/3400 hybrid, crane 272 cam, LS6 springs,port and polish,2.5 exhaust to 80 series flowmaster,solid mounts
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