Impossible to get off

[beigmatt]

This wheel hub is impossible to get off. I have tried torching it, liquid wrench, pb blaster, 5lb hammer/chisel and other tools. I know where the rust is in the middle.

All the shiny stuff you see is me starting to dig into the aluminum steering knuckle, I can touch it up once I get this damn hub off. Please tell me someone here has a secret.

[geoffinbc]

Use a big 3 jaw puller and press the CV shaft out of the flange. Once free the unit bearing will come out of the hub easily.

[beigmatt]

CV shaft moves in and out fine, its not holding it onto the hub at all. Once the hub breaks free it slides right off the axle. Even if I get the hub half off--the axle still sits in the hub just fine. I'm worried the jaw puller will break my axle, or atleast the boot.

[Guest]

What's this have to do with a pushrod 60 degree V6?

[beigmatt]

I love my '05 equinox (with a 60 degree v6). I'm hoping you gentleman have some advice to share. My neck hurts from banging on it all day haha.

[caffeine]

Sounds like it might be worth just replacing the whole knuckle. I've done the wheel bearings twice on my parent's venture and never had any issues.

[beigmatt]

I'm getting there. Thinking of renting an air tool today and if I cant get it off then buy the knuckle somewhere tomorrow.

Should a knuckle be <$100? I'm having trouble finding that exact part anywhere on the internet. Call a local junkyard??

[caffeine]

Yes I would call a junkyard

[1988GTU]

Take a 1" or bigger in dia punch with a flat tipped end and hold it really steady on the flange of the hub not the knuckle. Then take a BFH (the biggest heaviest BFH) and smack that flange in all directions guiding it in a clockwise or counter clockwise hit especially from the underside of it.

It WILL pop off.

[beigmatt]

Finally rented this tool to help...


AND IT WORKED

Finally got some clearance with a good old chisel and 5lb hammer after vibrating the shit out of it with that tool.
Believe it or not there is clearance there! and I was happy to see it.




And its off.



Hardest wheel bearing out of the 4.... unbelievable.

The knuckle looks really beat up but I was able to get the new bearing in and fix the bolt holes by hammering an old hub bolt through it. It looks structurally OK. Is there any reason to replace the knuckle from what anybody can see? Thx for the help

[1988GTU]

Did the new hub sit flush/straight & plumb?

[beigmatt]

Pretty much. Aside from a couple areas where the aluminum was beat up a little too much there is some space, especially around the bolt holes. They are chisel marks really.

The new hub fit fine after I sanded it down and fixed the bolt holes.. I put some 1000+ epoxy putty around the new hub where it becomes flush with the knuckle when it was installed to cover up the chisel marks in the aluminum and make a tighter seal to help prevent water/air from getting in.

So far after a test drive everything seems great. It was a little more beat up then I would of hoped but I think the steering knuckle is fine. I will let you guys know if the bearing fails or the knuckle breaks on me anytime soon, lol.

[caffeine]

Did you use lots of anti-seize so this doesn't happen again?

[1988GTU]

Guess time will tell if it should be replaced. lol

[beigmatt]

... so far I am amazed at the difference. I replaced 3/4 wheel bearings to little avail and then I replaced this one and got a few benefits.

1. No more intermittent shaking at 55-70mph. Surprised to see the wheel bearing was causing this issue. (I have aligned and balanced tires)
2. Used to vibrate when braking with ~20% force. (Have all new rotors, pads, rubber hoses, calipers, cylinders, drums etc... this new wheel bearing finally helped)
3. Less road noise.

I didn't use any anti-seize. You would think it's something they would do from the factory with the aluminum knuckles! The car is a 2005, this bearing was replaced after 9 years. I hope this one will last the life of the car. I have 150k on the car and 100k on the engine.

While I'm at it, anybody know the cheapest way to get my engine 3400 LNJ to ~250lb torque. My gearbox has a max torque output of 243 ft·lbf (329 N·m). The LNJ comes stock with 185 hp (138 kW) and 210 lb·ft (285 N·m). I already have an intake, resonator delete and a new cat from JAGS. Got rid of my P0420 like a charm. I got the engine at 65k. I have been taking incredibly good care of it. I would appreciate any advice from anyone. Thanks.