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  • brakes. will this be an issue?

    so im collecting parts for my brake upgrade. some info I found online was wrong about MY stock hub size.. should have measured my self instead of being lazy lol. the plan is c5 vette everything (yeah ebrake is gonna be a bitch), and I plan on a dual master cylinder witha bias bar. IF my info was correct I was going to bore the center of the rotors out a few mm and redrill them, no big deal. the vette rotors have bigger hubs than the beretta so im going to have to have centric rings made, not a huge deal I guess and in the long run it will be easier to swap rotors.

    my main concern right now is once I redrill the rotors will I have enough meat between the hub and the lugs? Dont want any cracking issues.. too much money and work for that. I do plan on getting a few expert opinions from shops but I know a few guys on here know there shit, more opinions I can get the better!

    to me it seems questionable.. were talking .325" of meterial if you dont feel like clicking on the pics, and Im not drilling it on those marks, it was just to get an idea of what im looking at

    I guess even if they do crack in that spot it really wont affect anything if you think about it. hell I could have slots instead of holes and be find right?
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Alxsmt; 09-27-2012, 11:01 PM.
    sigpic
    88 Beretta CL- 13.641@102.76mph (rwd LS1/t56 conversion in progress)

    77 Celica GT- 3400/3500 swap in progress (engine from the beretta)

  • #2
    I would opt for the 12" F-Body's with the N-body knuckle/bearing and also try the stock 11" N-body rotors with good pads to see which combination you like better. Honestly I think you will slow yourself down more than you expect putting that heavy 13" rotor on there. The 12" Camaro setup took a half second or so off my ET when I went up from my 96 rotors to those, It's a lot of extra rotating weight. Also IIRC you can not fit that 13" setup behind a 16" Beretta wheel... Hell Geoff needs his 17"s to clear the 12" F-body rotor with the Vette caliper.

    Regarding the drilling though, remember most of the holding force is done by the fact the rotor is clamped between the bearing and the wheel with the studs, so the "thin" material in that area shouldn't matter that much.
    Last edited by 3400-95-Modified; 10-01-2012, 01:06 PM.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by 3400-95-Modified View Post
      Also IIRC you can not fit that 13" setup behind a 16" Beretta wheel...
      With the C4 brakes on my car I need 17" minimum wheel (I know he is doing C5, but still). Stock Lumina 16" wheels do not fit, nor the 16" GP Crosslaces which I believe are supposed to be bigger inside than the Lumina wheels.
      -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
      91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
      92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
      94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
      Originally posted by Jay Leno
      Tires are cheap clutches...

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      • #4
        The inside of a Beretta wheel is VERY small... So can guarantee with a 13" rotor it will not fit.

        12" brake upgrade someone else did on a beretta with 17" rims




        Got Lope?
        3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
        Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
        Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
        12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

        Comment


        • #5
          13" C4 in an 18" rim.



          IIRC the gap is about 3/4-1".
          -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
          91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
          92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
          94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
          Originally posted by Jay Leno
          Tires are cheap clutches...

          Comment


          • #6
            yeah there is NO WAY they will fit under the gtz wheels, the rotor almost doesnt fit alone lol. fronts are 12.6"x1.6" and rears are 11.8"x1.0" and directional (cooling groves are angled)

            I wont do anything to change my bolt pattern, I have 10 5x100 wheels that I use lol. plus my drive shaft shop axles.. I have a set of 17s so if they clear those I only need 6 sets of wheels... lol.

            I have yet to weight the c5 rotors compared to stock but If i lose the gtz wheels (22 or 24lbs?) and get something lighter (my 17s are 15lbs) I figure ill be close to the same rotating weight. I do plan on adding more power about the same time I do the brakes. I really want to stop cracking rotors, melting caliper sliders and killing wheel bearings due to heat, along with having no issues stoping. plus ANY pad I could ever dream of.
            sigpic
            88 Beretta CL- 13.641@102.76mph (rwd LS1/t56 conversion in progress)

            77 Celica GT- 3400/3500 swap in progress (engine from the beretta)

            Comment


            • #7
              thats inside a 17" might have half an inch of clearance from the caliper lol. but thats with no pads or brackets so its a rough guess on where it belongs
              Attached Files
              sigpic
              88 Beretta CL- 13.641@102.76mph (rwd LS1/t56 conversion in progress)

              77 Celica GT- 3400/3500 swap in progress (engine from the beretta)

              Comment


              • #8
                Gotta find dual pattern rims, mine look exactly the same as what you posted, just with 5x100 and 5x115... But yeah I guess I can understand the driveshaft shop axle argument... I'm sure they would swap out the outer CV for you but it would cost money.

                I'm quite happy with my setup and honestly with the f-body calipers there is no lack of breaking power at all... Even the N-body brakes add quite a bit of control to what you would be used to and Hawk makes pads for those. I'm running Hawk Black pads on every corner of my car... I just need to mess with a master cylinder some day and verify the actual pressures since I think the rear is not enough.

                Got Lope?
                3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                Comment


                • #9
                  hmm. I already have calipers and rotors, Im committed lol. are the fbody 2 piston? c5 is 2 piston up front and one in the rear. c6 is 6 piston up front and 2 or 4? in the rear.. if they wernt more than double the price I would have gone that way lol.

                  are you running the stock master cylinder?
                  Last edited by Alxsmt; 10-03-2012, 10:44 PM.
                  sigpic
                  88 Beretta CL- 13.641@102.76mph (rwd LS1/t56 conversion in progress)

                  77 Celica GT- 3400/3500 swap in progress (engine from the beretta)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    F-body is two piston yes, and currently I'm running a stock master, I have the Neon 1 piston discs on the rear right now as well. I will say with the F-body's on the front you feel the difference in flow needed to make them work, the pedal will move further than normal but has very good grab, so I need to increase the bore size slightly on my setup if possible. I'll loose some PSI but I'll also loose some pedal throw so it will respond quicker.

                    Got Lope?
                    3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                    Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                    Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                    12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      ah. makes sense. dont you just measure the cylinder volume on the calipers and get a master that "matches"? can you go too big?
                      sigpic
                      88 Beretta CL- 13.641@102.76mph (rwd LS1/t56 conversion in progress)

                      77 Celica GT- 3400/3500 swap in progress (engine from the beretta)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        You could go too big... and if you do the pedal will not move much so be very responsive but since you have so much surface area its going to take a but load of force to get some good pressure so the effort will be very high.

                        I posted a bunch of brake theory stuff on Bnet not too long ago... Experimenting with the Modified race car really opened my eyes on how all of that changes things and how little of a change can make a huge difference in either responsiveness or effort necessary to brake.

                        Got Lope?
                        3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                        Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                        Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                        12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          alright, thanks! Ill have to check the thread out
                          sigpic
                          88 Beretta CL- 13.641@102.76mph (rwd LS1/t56 conversion in progress)

                          77 Celica GT- 3400/3500 swap in progress (engine from the beretta)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I removed the brake booster and replaced the 1 1/8" master cylinder with a 7/8" master cylinder and now have about the same brake pedel feel but it travels about 2-3X more then it did before to get the same effect.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              That sounds right, you ended up with more pressure but less flow, so the pedal has to move much further.

                              Got Lope?
                              3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                              Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                              Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                              12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                              Comment

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