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Brake Pads and rotors, Preference and Experience..

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  • Question : Brake Pads and rotors, Preference and Experience..

    Ok, so as some know I'm in the process of upgrading from the cheesy 10.2" discs on my L-body to a set of F-body brakes... 12" rotors. Now I'm asking on here to see what peoples preference is in brands out there.

    I was thinking of going with just plain ole Napa Premium rotors... not that expensive but they are the same brand I use now and have come to like, and also their Adaptive One pads... Napa also has a "High Perf" rotor which is slotted and drilled, I'm assuming its just their premiums with modifications to them.

    Now I want to know what peoples experiences are with other brands, Power Slot, Power Stop, EBC, Baer, Summit, and so on...

    Now the same goes for the rear... If I get something that's drilled/slotted I would love to have that exact option available for the rear, so take that into consideration, But then again I may only go with a slotted back there, since drilling is not necessary due to not much braking back there, and also drilling a solid rotor is not the best idea, then again it could help in heat dissipation too. SO if possible I would like the similar brand of rotors to be out there for a 97 Neon.... Yeah I know that makes the search harder, BUT I will compromise if I hear of a really good brand for the fronts, that hasn't produced rotors for a neon.

    Also keep in mind I do not want to pay out the @$$ for these, so no recommending $450 pairs of rotors. I'll stick to plain jane $80 ones if the only reputable "sporty looking" brands are very expensive.

    Applications I'm looking for

    2000 Camaro Front Discs (and similar models, 2000 Impala.... ect)
    1997 Dodge Neon Sport Rear Discs

    Also info on what pads people like use and rely on... this will be a street driven vehicle run at the drag strip... MAYBE sometimes at an Auto-X event but not a regular occurrence.

    Got Lope?
    3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
    Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
    Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
    12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

  • #2
    For rotors unless you want to go fancy drilled/slotted, it's whatever rotor IMO. I use the $15 each OReilly cheapys and they've never warped or done anything funny.. Steel is steel pretty much on those IMO. I'm sure some cheap brands vs expensive brands might have better/worse steel, but the cheap ones I've gotten work just fine. If you are paying $80 for plain rotors, what is so special with them over the $15 ones I get? Are they powdercoated or something?

    For pads yes those make a difference. I use Wagners and they grip a lot better and produce hardly any dust compared to the brake best brand which makes your wheels filthy FAST. I have never tried expensive performance pads because I get free replacements and haven't had to pay but one time back in 2001 for pads. I paid the difference to upgrade to the Wagners once when getting them swapped out, and it was WELL worth it. I just recently replaced the pads again and I'm noticing they are taking some of the outer edge of the rotor rust off, they must be a bit bigger than the worn out ones. These rotors are still pretty much new so they are bedding in OK. I've never turned my rotors and never had an issue doing that way. I also lubed up the sliders as I noticed one was a little thinner than the other when replacing the old pads. That should help stopping as well with more even pressure.

    Anyway, I vote cheap plain jane rotors, and some good pads, but nothing exotic. You ARE going to bigger brakes front and rear remember, that in itself is a big upgrade. I'd rock plain rotors unless you want the look of drilled/slotted.
    sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
    1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
    16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
    Original L82 Longblock
    with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
    Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

    Comment


    • #3
      $80 for a plain jane rotor is because its 3x the material used in one of your stock rotors... That was a local Napa price. Yeah Cheapo rotors from like Rock Auto are around 44 or so... BUT in the end yeah they will be bigger but why go super cheap? Its just not worth it, Also the $80 ones are the equivilant to the $40 ones I used to buy for my beretta's Napa Premium ones.

      Got Lope?
      3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
      Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
      Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
      12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

      Comment


      • #4
        .....For Pads, I love Hawk pad's personally.....
        1991 Grand Prix STE
        3.4 DOHC
        1 of 792 Produced
        Extensive Mods Done

        1991 Lumina Z34
        3.4 DOHC
        Getrag 284 5spd
        1 of 30
        Canadian Z34 Models Made with the Getrag 5spd Wahoooo!

        1980 GMC Sierra Classic C25 With 18,000 ORIGINAL MILES!!!!

        sigpic

        Comment


        • #5
          That's appearing to be a pretty general consensus about Hawk... we also use those pads on the race car, so they gotta be pretty good. lol

          I've taken my normally $140 all premium parts brake job, and bumped it up to $547.70 to cover all 4 wheels DAMN!
          Last edited by 3400-95-Modified; 04-24-2009, 11:41 AM.

          Got Lope?
          3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
          Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
          Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
          12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

          Comment


          • #6
            I'll mix it up a little. I like EBC brake pads. Although, the Greenstuff pads are nearly $30 more (on my application) than the Hawk pads and even more if you go to Redstuff.
            1995 Grand Am SE

            Comment


            • #7
              I think the Green's are only about $3 more for the camaro setup, BUT I tried green stuff pads once, and for the L-body I wasn't impressed... so much I actually sent them back... kept the rotors though.

              EBC was one brand I was thinking about in the beginning but hearing about Hawk from so many F-body guys, I decided to go that route.

              Got Lope?
              3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
              Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
              Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
              12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

              Comment


              • #8
                EBC Pad are great as well.......

                There are several companies now that make really great quality pads.


                Personally, When one can afford it I would recomend good quality rotors,

                IF you compare for example the; meterial, thickness, balance, and casting rotors will vary.

                One thing that IS often over looked that anyone will notice when comparing rotors is:
                - THE NUMBER OF COOLING FINS
                - THE THICKNESS OF THE FINS
                - THE QUALITY OF THE CASTING OF THE FINS

                Sometimes price doesn't mean there good quality,

                A High-end rotor will usaually be High-carbon steel, and are machined on the cooling vents ends, etc

                Some great rotor I know personally are:
                - GM's Durastop rotors
                - NAPA's Preimum rotors
                - DISC-ITALIA (VERY NICE!)
                - SSBC
                - EBC
                .........
                There are lot's of good rotors out there, but if you can't afford it, then cheap ones are better then none! LOL
                1991 Grand Prix STE
                3.4 DOHC
                1 of 792 Produced
                Extensive Mods Done

                1991 Lumina Z34
                3.4 DOHC
                Getrag 284 5spd
                1 of 30
                Canadian Z34 Models Made with the Getrag 5spd Wahoooo!

                1980 GMC Sierra Classic C25 With 18,000 ORIGINAL MILES!!!!

                sigpic

                Comment


                • #9
                  I guess I've never looked at a really crappy rotor. My friend got some really expensive rotors for his car, and other than being slotted and painted, looked the same as my rotors. I guess I've never had really tough pads to wear out my cheap rotors fast or anything. Never had mine warp or wear un-even either. I've heard of people with L bodies cracking rotors though! But maybe those were drilled rotors I can't remember.
                  sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                  1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                  16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                  Original L82 Longblock
                  with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                  Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I have never really cared for slotted or drilled rotors on a street-driven car......ther's just no reason for it.
                    Normally, I would recommend Raybestos rotors, or if you can find 'em, rotors from DBA (Disc Brakes Australia) are good for heavy use (they make the rotors on my Baer Track+ kit).
                    Hawk pads are okay, but I'm kinda partial to CarboTech and Cobalt pads.
                    Matt
                    2000 Oldsmobile Alero GLS sedan
                    3400/3500 hybrid, Diamond Racing forged pistons, Scat I-beams, TCE DRTC, ported heads, WOT Race cam, PAC 1518s, Manley valves, F40 6-speed with Quaife LSD

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