Hi, first post and need help from here. I am taking my front end apart and want to know if the f-body brakes fit without cutting the struts and if i could buy the 12 inch brake kit from w-body store? Would the sleeves and banjo bolts fit? The thread for c4 vette brakes has not been used and I don't know if it moves the thread back up in front or it stays. Also, would I have to switch knuckles and struts over to newer model or be fine with 91? Alot of questions but many thanks in advance and sorry for the long posting.
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brake upgade with f-body
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I'm guessing you have a 91 Z34? Need to know info about the vehicle before people can accurately answer your questions.-Brad-
89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
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Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog
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I remember an upgrade to the newer style W-body front brakes, and yes, you had to switch out the knuckle and all. IIRC, the newer rear brakes were all bolt on, but don't quote me on this as it's been a long time since I've read/heard about it. I've never heard of bolting F-body stuff on. Besides, the knuckles wouldn't work (FWD vs RWD knuckles).-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoTires are cheap clutches...
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If you have N-body or W-body knuckles from a 98-02 car (i think that range is right) you can bolt F-body stuff right to them and just use the larger rotor. Only difference in W-body is you need to drill out the holes on the F-body bracket for the larger mounting bolts... N and F share the same size bolt, W is bigger IIRC
I'm using 99 N-body knuckles, ball joints outer CV's and bearings, and a F-body caliper, rotor and pads, all on my L-body.
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3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS
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That's what i was wondering but with switching to a 98-02 knuckle i read that it wouldn't work due to the moving of the balljoint placement from the knuckle along with the tie rod. If so, does the n-body knuckle hold the same position as the w-body ball joint or it's also different since it's another platform? The knuckles for up to 96 or 97 retain the same location for the ball joint and tie rod end if i read correctly for the w-body?
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the n-body knuckles ran from 99-05 on the grand am and alero.
N and W share the same bolt pattern the F body is different 5x120 vs the 5x115 of the N and W platform.sigpic
99 Grand Am GT
3400/3500 -Solid trans mount--TCE 65mm T-body---85mm LS2 maf---1 1/4' TCE intake spacers with 3400 upper--SLP Catback with flowmaster 80--TOG headers
Modded 3400 lifters with LT1 springs---Comp Cams 26986 Springs
1357 cam 227 233 .050 dur 515 515 lift 112 lsa
15.232@88.85mph on stock 3400---New time to come
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That answers the bolt pattern and f-body upgrade but what about if the tie rod and ball joint placement will still be the same for putting the knuckle onto a 91 Z34 and will the strut still attach? Or do I use a GA balljoint/tierod? Thanks for the posts they are all great responses for my car.
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You would probably use the GA balljoint to be safe... I am just so I know the taper is the same, distance isn't changed on the location of the ball joint in reference to the control arm.
They did shorten the distance the bearing is out, so I need a .58 spacer after this is all done to space my wheels back out. Unfortunately I dont use the tierod end like you would, I hack mine off since my strut has my tierod point on it, so I cant answer that question for you
Got Lope?
3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS
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The tie rod isn't the problem it's the ball joint. On the older W's it mounts to the knuckle and bolts to the control arm. The newer W's and N and some other bodies have it mounted to the control arm and bolts up into the knuckle. You would have to replace your subframe with the newer style to use the new control arms and steering knuckles. It does fit, they are nearly identical except for the the way the control arms mount. It also seems the trans mount bolts are slightly wider but looks like it could just be drilled out to accept what you have, but I haven't actually measured it out to see if the trans would sit in the same exact place.
They used to have all of the info on w-body about what years had the knuckles with the mounting tabs more outward to use a slightly bigger rotor but the links don't work over there. I think the gen 1.5 lumina and monte had it but don't quote me on it. Most of the other options require either expensive parts or custom brackets. The gen 2 upgrade would be great if you didn't need the whole subframe. Unless you have a parts car with the subframe intact it would probably be expensive to buy all of the pieces from the junkyard.
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Just as I thought. Thanks for all the information. It would be very expensive when you have no savings for the entire swap. I'll have to go with the gen 1.5 swap on all four corners and save for the '03 grand prix gtp which i love so much. So much power, so few dollars. Thanks again for all the great expertise and should have asked a long time ago. Best site!!!!PERIOD!!!!
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As far as i know im the only one that did the 2g w-body knuckle upgrade. I used a custom control arm and custom upper strut mount. As for the tie rod ends I used the inner ones for a 1g and the outters from a h-body. Also axles arent the same so youll need them from a 4t65e... you may need the 4t65e as well. I just had custom axles made since i needed them for my 6spd swap anyway.
-GREEN 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix SE - L82/5spd MTX +
-White 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP - 97 207DOHC/6SPD MTX +
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